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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, i cant get help no where, i was trying to do valves on mine myself but something went wrong because when i put everything back together there is no clearance gap at all where it should be 0.11-0.20mm on intake and 0.21-25mm on extake i dont know what im doing wrong i bought biger shims Instead smaller ones my bad, i got new ones now but still same problem, do i have to spin crankshaft Mark K another 360 degres and then camshafts again on Marks or it doesn't matter? No idea iv lost my orginal tensioner so switchd to manual
 

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The best advice I can give you is to follow the procedure outlined in the service manual for the machine. When I check the gap, I roll the cams until the lobes I'm checking look like Micky mouse ears from the side of the motor (intake at 10 o'clock, exhaust at 2 o'clock). Also be sure to use the correct assembly lube. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes i do know that. Im using service manual but still cant get gap i will do it again today and i will let know Thanks SO much
 

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Generally, when I do valve jobs, I always get a set of the smallest shims possible. I install all of them, reassemble, and check my clearances for each valve. This tells me just exactly what size shim I will need to replace it with, based on whatever the largest size feeler I'm able to clear it with. You take the size you get from the feeler, subtract the middle of the range that you're trying to hit from it (for your case, 0.16mm intake, 0.25mm exhaust), and add the difference to the size of the shim you have already in. Find a shim around that value that won't cause you to be out of clearance specs.
If you cannot clear any feelers with the smallest shim, you're looking at needing to rebuild the head OR your marks aren't lined up correctly due to user error or one of the cams jumping a tooth. If your K mark is lined up on the bottom, check up top that your sprocket punch marks, c and e, are facing outwards (page 3-6). If they're facing inwards, rotate the crank another 360. If they STILL don't line up, you jumped a tooth on one of your cams. Refer to page 5-19 on how to install the cams correctly.
To answer your question, the crankshaft rotates 720 degrees to complete a camshaft rotation of 360 degrees.
 

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Did you put everything back in how it came out? Meaning:

1) Did you put the same cam cap back where it came out (the exact same location).

2) Did you put each cam cover back where the came from?

3) Did you put each shim back where they can from)

4) Did you measure shims correctly? (This can be tricky)

If you did not pay attention to any one of the topics above, this could cause your adjustments to be way off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hello there im off to my garage now and in couple of hours i let know...

Question
1 YES
2 YES
3 i change almost all shims, or swapped places
4 i hope so... I mean only 1st and 2nd valve needed on 1st cylinder adjusting rest was ok but i wanted to make biger gap i dont know what gone wrong i did valve clearance few Times but this crossplane makes me crazy
 

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Hello there im off to my garage now and in couple of hours i let know...

Question
1 YES
2 YES
3 i change almost all shims, or swapped places
4 i hope so... I mean only 1st and 2nd valve needed on 1st cylinder adjusting rest was ok but i wanted to make biger gap i dont know what gone wrong i did valve clearance few Times but this crossplane makes me crazy
The crossplane is no different from any other inline 4. The only difference is timing.

Are you sure you measured gap at TDC?

One trick to find TDC is stick something inside on top of the piston and watch it rise and fall. TDC will be the transition between rise and fall from the highest point.

Not measuring at TDC will throw you off too; by a lot.
 

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The crossplane is no different from any other inline 4. The only difference is timing.

Are you sure you measured gap at TDC?

One trick to find TDC is stick something inside on top of the piston and watch it rise and fall. TDC will be the transition between rise and fall from the highest point.

Not measuring at TDC will throw you off too; by a lot.
I can definitely understand not wanting to be on the acceleration ramp or in the duration of the valve to set the lash. If the valve is closed though, does it really matter if you are checking the exhaust on the intake or the intake on the exhaust stroke? I've never done it, just genuinely curious. It's not like the cam, the valve or the spring actually know what stroke they are on. The critical thing is that they are closed. I just make sure the lobes are at 10 and 2 and that insures the valves are closed.
 

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I can definitely understand not wanting to be on the acceleration ramp or in the duration of the valve to set the lash. If the valve is closed though, does it really matter if you are checking the exhaust on the intake or the intake on the exhaust stroke? I've never done it, just genuinely curious. It's not like the cam, the valve or the spring actually know what stroke they are on. The critical thing is that they are closed. I just make sure the lobes are at 10 and 2 and that insures the valves are closed.
You’re right. Not sure what I was thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi, i did everything once again and there is some gap, but very small now what im gona do is put back all shims back to oryginal if i find my valve plan, now my Question is do i put camshafts in right way? I mean i start from exhaust, stretching chain and count 30 pins then i put intake, then i tighten all bolts but im not too sure if its ok
1018934
1018935
 

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Usually for the step you're talking about, I mark a line across the camshaft and the chain before any disassembly, so during reassembly I just line everything up.
But from what you're saying, it sounds like it's an acceptable way to reassemble. Just remember to work your way up when you're tightening down the camshaft caps. Step your way up, Tighten all the bolts in the order listed in the service manual, but start like 5 Nm less than what the torque spec is. Once they're all tightened, step up to 2.5 Nm less than spec and go through tightening in the order listed. Then repeat with the actual torque spec. This way you don't overly stress any of the components. It's probably not necessary to do these extra steps, but I always do them just to keep the stresses lower and not risk deforming anything. Takes only a minute or two longer.

Looking at your profile picture, I raise you this in response.
 

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Usually for the step you're talking about, I mark a line across the camshaft and the chain before any disassembly, so during reassembly I just line everything up.
But from what you're saying, it sounds like it's an acceptable way to reassemble. Just remember to work your way up when you're tightening down the camshaft retainers. Step your way up, Tighten all the bolts in the order listed in the service manual, but start like 20 lb ft less than what the torque spec is. Once they're all tightened, step up to 15 less than spec and go through tightening in the order listed. Then repeat for 10, 5, and the actual torque spec. This way you don't overly stress any of the components. It's probably not necessary to do these extra steps, but I always do them just to keep the stresses lower and not risk deforming anything.
The cam caps call for 10nm don't they? So, 7.2'#.
1018939
 

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Fixed the error. They were a big higher up when I did the valve job on a different bike. Wrong measurement. My bad.
No problem bud, that's on my '08 so the op might want to check the manual for his machine. If I were the op, I'd definitely crack the manual open and give her a good read.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I found this



Bacchus40 i dont understand what Is he saying about dead on
 

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I found this



Bacchus40 i dont understand what Is he saying about dead on
‘Dead on‘ is him referring to the dots/punch marks ‘perfectly’ aligning with the gasket surface Of the head. If you were to get down on your knee and align your eyesight looking along the plane of the gasket surface of the head, you will be able to see that these ‘dots’ are ‘dead on’ in alignment with that surface.
I believe the exhaust cam dot would be positioned perfectly at 9 ‘o’clock while the intake cam dot would be positioned perfectly at the 3 o’clock position
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Good news iv found my old valve plan example i had 1.92 mm shim on 1st intake and replaced with 1.85 because 0.07 only went it where should be 0.11-0.21mm so i guess i did measurings ok. So my problem is timing...? Mine are Just below head i dont see diff way to fit them once they are sitting on Marks. Ill try put old shims back and well see
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok i surrender today i did again and nope...
1019099

I cant get this ex right
1019100


1019101


Ill give a try tomorow again
 

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I'd have installed the cct and spun that through by hand. I don't think that is off by a tooth. More like the chain needs some tension. A trip around and she'd straighten up. That's just me though.
 
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