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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You didnt?

You babied it?

On the dyno?

I gingerly road my bike for the first 9 miles. I've always wanted to break a bike in on the dyno but the opportunity wasn't there to do it today either. I've read some stuff by some intelligent guys that say to beat up on it out of the gate to get the rings to seat better on these newer bikes.

what do yall think?
 

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For the first 250-300ks id speed up to 80ks change to second let it back off in second to 70ks then open it up to 120ks then get 3rd let it back off in 3rd to 80ks then speed up to 130ks again then get 4th let it drop back to 90ks in 4th then speed up to 140ks change to 5th let it back off to 100ks then open it up to 140-160ks select 6th and back off and start going back down the gears till i was in 1st doing about 40ks.. Then start again!

Once i got 350ks on the clock i started to open it up more.. Never took it past the green..
Once i hit 500ks it was game on.. had it in the yellow/orange but not red..
 

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I've read an article about the test done by MCN a while ago using R6 models. They dynoed them brand new and then 3 of them were run in as per book and the other 3 were taken straight o to the track and given the berries. After about 2000 keys they dynoed them again. All three from the track had 3-5 hp more than these babied one's.
It is true that rings to piston need a bit of quick hard work to bed in properly but there are other areas like crankshaft, camshafts and gearbox that might don't like that method. I guess it is you choice if you prefer more power over engine life. Found this too:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 

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It's a great question is this.

No 'right' direction.

5 cold starts until the fan kicks in? Then thrash it?

Just Thrash it from day dot?

As per Handbook?

Or does it depend on if your brand new R1 will be delivered half way through summer and running the fukker in is just another delay?

When/If mine comes (i may well cancel at this rate) ... I am going straight for a track day out of the box.

They gave me no choice.
 

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Dyno, change the oil, never think about it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's a great question is this.

No 'right' direction.

5 cold starts until the fan kicks in? Then thrash it?

Just Thrash it from day dot?

As per Handbook?

Or does it depend on if your brand new R1 will be delivered half way through summer and running the fukker in is just another delay?

When/If mine comes (i may well cancel at this rate) ... I am going straight for a track day out of the box.

They gave me no choice.
Where are you located at? There are a few coming in local to me in the next week. By few I mean 3. I could also put you on with 2-3 more dealers that will have some in the next month.

I did a lot of calling to dealers. lol
 

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I have 50k on my R6 doing it by the manual. it uses no oil, and still pulls like a new one. will be doing my R1 the same way.

I bought a new crate motor for my truck and it says to engine brake it from 50 about 12 times and it's fully broken in. never heard of this method before. but that's what I did. seems to have worked. it has 64k miles on it now and the oil is still pretty clean at 4k miles.
 

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My break in procedure:

1. Book a track day
2. Drain the oil they put in at the factory.
3. Refill with mineral oil meeting the API SG or higher and JASO MA specs. (I use Penrite MC 4ST 15W-50)
4. Warm up the engine thoroughly & check for leaks.
5. One easy lap to get the tires warm
6. Go for it as fast as you dare.
7. After 100km change the oil
8. Enjoy the track some more
9. Do a second oil change at 500 km and change the filter.
10. After 1500 -2000 km put your favour brand of synthetic oil.
Job done.
 

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My break in procedure:

1. Book a track day
2. Drain the oil they put in at the factory.
3. Refill with mineral oil meeting the API SG or higher and JASO MA specs. (I use Penrite MC 4ST 15W-50)
4. Warm up the engine thoroughly & check for leaks.
5. One easy lap to get the tires warm
6. Go for it as fast as you dare.
7. After 100km change the oil
8. Enjoy the track some more
9. Do a second oil change at 500 km and change the filter.
10. After 1500 -2000 km put your favour brand of synthetic oil.
Job done.
That is normally what I would do, but this time round given that the internals are DLC coated, microns at that, I am thinking twice. Polishing is not necessary with DLC, only seating. I do not want to risk wearing off the coating so I am going by the manual, sticking with synth and doing it the long way.
 

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I talked to Yamaha tech line personally and was informed that it is mineral oil that it ships with. Now, whether the man on the other end of the phone is correct or not I do not know. I'm only stating what I was told. The manual also recommends synth in either 15w50 or 10w40. 10w40 does not come in synth and is still recommended by the manual. Based on the manual, clearly either is fine and whatever break in method you chose will also be fine. Myself, I do mineral oil, changing at 150 ish miles then 600 then 1000. Synch throttle bodies at 600. At 3500/4000 miles i switch to synth. Vary rpms and gears. Load engine intentionally and lots of engine breaking. Try not to kick its ass right away but don't baby it either.
 

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I'm doing 50km/h to 120km/h in 1st a lot and in 2nd. If I'm on the highway I'll get some space and accelerate then engine brake, then change gear and do it again and again and again
 

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That is normally what I would do, but this time round given that the internals are DLC coated, microns at that, I am thinking twice. Polishing is not necessary with DLC, only seating. I do not want to risk wearing off the coating so I am going by the manual, sticking with synth and doing it the long way.
The DLC coating is on the cylinder walls and breaking the engine in is about sealing the piston rings and they need to wear in to be able to seal properly. So really you would not wear off your coating anyway.
I am not saying my method is the best or anything as it is an individual decision for everybody to make, so good luck with all your methods :thumbup
 
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