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R1, art of engineering
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Will take about 1 day including rebleeding coolant, ive borrowed some pics/steps from mrquickr1's post on smog plates since there the same.

Thanks to yamaha using hardly any glue/sub standard glue the starter motor doesnt last very long.

Remember to take photos and place bolts with the parts they came out of so you dont forget.

1) Take off the rider seat

2) Remove metal bracket for seat and the toolkit

3) Disconnect positive on the battery

4) Unscrew the side panel on gas tank, then slide it forward to remove

5) Remove the screws on side of tank and the one near the yoke

6) Prop the tank up, disconnect connections first as pictured. Once you have removed the plastic cover for the fuel line, can remove the quick connector push both blue side in and pull slowly.
Mark with a sharpie which small rubber tube goes where as pictured. ...have a rag there for some fuel leakage/drippings

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/d5vykdmw1txkkup/SAM_4413.JPG?dl=0

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/y43zbela3d09a5d/SAM_4415.JPG?dl=0

7) Remove rubber grommet/cover on the sub frame so you can access the bolt the tank pivots on. Remove the bolt (5mm allen screw), place the tank on something so it wont damage the paint.

8) Remove cable tie and disconnect all connectors on the bottom left side, ive fitted a pcv so yours should be green to green not green into white connector.

9) Disconnect fuel line on air box (pull up on orange clip and push 2 side buttons in and pull easy)....have a rag there for some fuel leakage.

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/fq0lmjkx8b7ac2d/AIS14.jpg?dl=0

10) Remove all outside screws (phillips) from top of air box, take the top off

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/edl6e6lukxjctmx/SAM_4426.JPG?dl=0

11) push off white clip as shown, these come off easy, just don't force anything.

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/yxhp3jqaj6tywze/AIS13.jpg?dl=0

12) The top funnel to remove, push out where it is snapped in place off the rods, easy to do just be easy and don't over force anything.

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/ofbk7rac9zi5mit/AIS2.jpg?dl=0

13) Unscrew (5mm long t handle) the 6 allen screws at the bottom of the lower intake funnel, leave screws in place.

Disconnect the air breather hose at the base as pictured also there is a small black connector that ive circled that goes through the engine heat mat disconnect that aswell

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/bvga7bp7241ul9t/SAM_4424.JPG?dl=0

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/uqxn2w45xjgv2n1/SAM_4394.JPG?dl=0

14) If you havent done the smog plate mod youll will have another hose on the right side disconnect that aswell. Remove Lower air box case, if you have disconnected all the connectors in step 6 it will remove with no troubles.

15) Unplug all connectors that is connected to the throttle body as pictured

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/04d6ni1fj4yaxzg/SAM_4390.JPG?dl=0

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/tz0of1khu5ozh15/SAM_4392.JPG?dl=0

16) Without undoing any of the side fairings you should be able to see and get to the clamp on throttle body boots. (With long t handle 4mm allen key)

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/fouyqsxhwlkgmw1/SAM_4391.JPG?dl=0

17) The throttle body should pull up with a little force no need to undo throttle cables.

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/gmaljagvgberu3i/SAM_4395.JPG?dl=0

18) What you should now see, place a clean non lint rag down each intake to stop anything going in.

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/o7ssng24z3idh2c/SAM_4398.JPG?dl=0

19) Disconnect engine ground lead

20) Should now be able to move the heat mat above intake funnel exposing coolant pipe and starter motor.

21) Could drain all the coolant first by disconnecting the hose clamp behind lower left fairing use a socket not philip screwdriver. Disconnect coolant pipe as circled, best to undo the hose clamp thats closest to the thermostat. You probably will still get coolant come out of the hose above the starter motor.

22) Pull the coolant pipe from the engine side first then wiggle it off the thermostat.

23) Remove both allen key screws on the starter motor, you will also need to remove the coolant reservoir bottle so the motor can come out.

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/xg76qmri4x5zacp/SAM_4404.JPG?dl=0

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/mrgl9hpo8iizjy0/SAM_4405.JPG?dl=0

24) Putting it all back go in reverse order, triple check all wire connections, fuel lines, clearance, all screws and bolts accounted for.....

starter motor oring will need a coat of lithium soap grease
starter motor allen screws are to 12nm/8.7 ft lb
make sure positive lead on starter motor is done up tight (no loctite according to the manual)
coolant pipe engine side oring will need a coat of lithium soap grease
coolant pipe engine side screw needs loctite and 10nm/7.2 ft lb
make sure the heat mat is sitting correctly (flat) especially behind coolant bottle.
engine ground lead 10nm/7.2 ft lb
once you have the throttle body in do up the throttle body boots to the point that it wont do up anymore.

25) Once you have it back togther remove right side fairing, right side air intake panels exposing radiator cap.

26) fill up radiator run engine with the radiator cap off on the side stand to about 90c/194f then shut the bike off wait a few hours till the coolant cools down, retop up radiator.

27) Put the bike back together your all finished.
 

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kickin' at the darkness
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9,995 Posts
thanks for this, i' guess i'll be tearing into it this weekend :( :shake


half way into it... pretty easy once you know how to do plugs n' quick-shifter connect,
looks like the old man is gonna tear into the rest... good to see you've got enough room
to just move T-bodies out of the way to work on the starter....

thanks for the detailed pics! :fork

I was having a little trouble with the two allen bolts holding t-bodies in place @ center
but it looks like my mastercraft kit is very complete, took 3 extensions but its done..

will run through the test procedure laterz n' verify, but i'm ready to place order for starter
weather it wants one or not... its bugged me from month one on the bike.. motor be gone!


confirmation... starter motor is pooched... fried itself and grounded for life...
magnet fell off, slammed into the next... system burned itself out in two weeks.. 14.5k kms! :shake
 

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'04 R1's smell nice...
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698 Posts
Thanks for the write up. Pretty self explanatory, but your write up helped me to find the other two screws on the air box, how to disassemble the velocity stacks, and some other stuff.

+1 from me.

As a side note, if you move some of the stuff out of the way, there are a few things you don't have to take off. I made it from having bike completely together to the picture of the starter in about an hour and fifteen minutes.

Here's mine:
 

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Registered
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4 Posts
Hey guys!

First post here on R1 forums, been lurking since July of this year.

I just wanted to clarify the condition of my current starter. Pulled it due to some hard starting/stalling issues and found this.

The above starter shows segments where the magnets are connected. Mine have gaps. This is a 2009 R1 starter.

Is what I've pictured "normal" for this starter or have I lost magnets as well? I've found no parts on either end.



Thanks!
 

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R1, art of engineering
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The magnets look fine, the coil looks like its burnt from the pic.
 

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Registered
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4 Posts
The magnets look fine, the coil looks like its burnt from the pic.
I believe that is correct as there were some slight black marks on the coil.

Ok, so at least I have an idea of how the magnets are supposed to look.

Could running the starter for excessive periods of time cause the coil to become burnt? Incorrect input voltage?

Thanks for the installation writeup as it was a huge help in getting this thing out.
 

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R1, art of engineering
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Could running the starter for excessive periods of time cause the coil to become burnt? Incorrect input voltage?

Thanks for the installation writeup as it was a huge help in getting this thing out.
Yes to both, best to check what voltage you are getting at the battery including revving it. Excess voltage could damage other parts ecu, battery etc. Though more then likely due to excessive periods running the starter motor or shit manufacturing.

And no worries :)
 

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'04 R1's smell nice...
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698 Posts
Your starter looks good. You have a battery problem it would seem.
 

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“Rhinestone Cowboy” MF Doom
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10,739 Posts
How hard is this to do? How long?

I've done plugs earlier this year and it took all day. If I ever have to do it again, it won't take as long.

Do I really need all the grease?

I have Amsoil White Lithium Grease in a spray can. Is this sufficient?

Wish the OP had bigger pictures. I still appreciate the post though.
 

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Master of the Obvious
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180 Posts
How hard is this to do? How long?

I've done plugs earlier this year and it took all day. If I ever have to do it again, it won't take as long.

Do I really need all the grease?

I have Amsoil White Lithium Grease in a spray can. Is this sufficient?

Wish the OP had bigger pictures. I still appreciate the post though
If you click the image it should open a page with some link text and a download link. D/L the images directly to your computer, they're 1024 x 768 :thumbup
 

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kickin' at the darkness
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9,995 Posts
doesnt take long at all One2, once you've done work around throttle bodies with previous installs n' mods its easy, the starter is easy to get at, just gotta move some wires out of the way...
 

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'04 R1's smell nice...
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698 Posts
Yes. You have to pull the coolant hose to get to the starter.
 

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kickin' at the darkness
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9,995 Posts
pics show up for me.. but only 3rd post and on, which are obviously not yours, yeh somethings up :dunno
 

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R1, art of engineering
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Just found out all my pics have been deleted by imageshack

Im trying to sort it out to get my pics restored
 
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