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“Rhinestone Cowboy” MF Doom
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Ok ok ok…so before I buy a starter, I’d like to share my symptoms.

The bikes cranks very slowly at times and sometimes it will not start. I have two batteries: 12 cell Alien Motion and an 8 cell SpeedCell.

Both batteries are good.

After fail attempts, if I turn the ignition off and start all over with the starting process, the bike will crank faster and then start.

For a long time now, the dash would shut off if I hold down the start button too long, only about 2 to 3 seconds, and the cranking process will come to a stop until I release the starter button and try all over again. This is with a hot engine only (usually after stoping for gas).

Bike has over 20,000 miles. Great condition.

What do you think? :)
 

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...
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140 Posts
Mine did the same thing.
I pulled the starter and opened it up to see what the problem was.
Mine had worn out brushes.
It was about $70 to fix the problem, much better than $400+ for a starter.
It's been back together for about 1000 miles and it starts like it did when it was new.

Pull your starter and have a look.

If the magnets haven't shifted you may get by with the same fix I did.
If yours is worse inside you'll need a new starter.

Good luck with it

Steve
 

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“Rhinestone Cowboy” MF Doom
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10,739 Posts
Just finished. Took me 3 hours. That includes putting everything back together but without refilling coolant and burping the system.

If you can do spark plugs and smog block offs, you can do this too!!

Some tips:

• I bought a new gasket for the coolant pipe. Part #
93210-235A1-00

• I highly recommend a very longer than average T-Handle hex tool in size 4. That’s for the middle left throttle body clamp.

• Do not loosen the throttle body clamps too much. You can drop the nut on the back side of the bolt and lose it. Loosen just enough to where you can wiggle them with your finger.

• You can stick your hand inside and loosen the throttle body clamp bolts with your finger after you have broken them loose. You can do the same when putting them back together by finger tightening them.

• My throttle bodies needed a little muscle to pull up.

• When removing the coolant pipe from the engine, loosen the coolant hose that’s on the small end and loosen the clamp circle below and then pull everything out.

This will allow you to get to the starter bolts easily and pull the starter out from the hole too.

Use a small/regular hex Allen key when removing and installing the starter bolts. Too easy.



• I wasn’t able to install the coolant pipe while attached to the thermostat which is how I pulled it out. Remove everything from the coolant pipe and install it that way. Make sure it is seated all the way inside the engine hole and be sure not to strip the threads. It’s attached with only 1 bolt.

• Verify that you have reconnected all connectors. There’s a hidden one under the throttle bodies that is pictured in the first post. Don’t miss that one.

This was way too easy.
 

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Premium Member
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8 Posts
Your post on the steps to replace the starter motor is priceless. I'm not having such an easy time removing my throttlebody. I loosened all 4 clamps as stated just short of nuts not falling off . I can barely get the throttle body to wiggle back and forth. I have a 2013 R1. Am I missing something or did they change or add additional fasteners? I don't want to break or force anything as you stated.
 

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294 Posts
You can actually take out the starter motor without going through the tank and air box.

- Remove the water bottle
- Remove the thermostat
- Using an allen key (or L socket or ring spanner, depending on what's holding your motor down), remove the two bolts hiding the motor down.
- from the clutch cover end, get a piece of wood to tap out the motor from the engine case
- use a flat 10 to get the electrical lead off.
- Reverse procedure for putting the new motor in.

You should be in an out of there in an hour tops. It can be a tight fit getting those bolts to loosen up, but once they are, you can unbolt fully with your fingers.

PS: if you're going to use OPs method, disconnect the electrical terminal from the starter solenoid, and not the starter head, and connect the terminal to the new motor before putting it in (and connect to the starter solenoid when done). Getting the terminal on to the starter when it's already on the bike can be a pain, and torquing the nut on the motor in an uncomfy position can lead to damaging the brush terminal in the starter, or having the nut fall behind the motor.
 

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Premium Member
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8 Posts
Thanks for the valuable info. I will give your steps a whirl, as I am still having an awful time trying to remove the throttle body. I will update when I do more work on it. The new starter arrives today So will likely get back at it tomorrow.
 

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“Rhinestone Cowboy” MF Doom
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10,739 Posts
Thanks for the valuable info. I will give your steps a whirl, as I am still having an awful time trying to remove the throttle body. I will update when I do more work on it. The new starter arrives today So will likely get back at it tomorrow.
Gotta pry them up. Wiggle back and forward. They will come up.
 

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kickin' at the darkness
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9,995 Posts
You can actually take out the starter motor without going through the tank and air box.



You should be in an out of there in an hour tops. It can be a tight fit getting those bolts to loosen up, but once they are, you can unbolt fully with your fingers.
.
we removed my starter without having to touch the tank, airbox... this was on my 09 R1. years ago :yesnod

i cant remember the exact procedure but it was much quicker than i expected :lol
 

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Premium Member
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8 Posts
Well, I got finally got the throttlebody off and removed the starter. Now I can't seem to get the new starter motor in. The old one slips in with little trouble. The new one won't go the final 1/2" to line up and bolt her in. There is nothing different between the two that I can tell. Both look identical. Is it the positive battery lead causing the issue? It doesn't seem to be in the way. I have the throttle body out. The thermostat out with hoses. Again the old one slides in without the positve lead attached. I'm going to try to install without the lead attached and see if it will go in. Any tips?
 

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“Rhinestone Cowboy” MF Doom
Joined
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10,739 Posts
Well, I got finally got the throttlebody off and removed the starter. Now I can't seem to get the new starter motor in. The old one slips in with little trouble. The new one won't go the final 1/2" to line up and bolt her in. There is nothing different between the two that I can tell. Both look identical. Is it the positive battery lead causing the issue? It doesn't seem to be in the way. I have the throttle body out. The thermostat out with hoses. Again the old one slides in without the positve lead attached. I'm going to try to install without the lead attached and see if it will go in. Any tips?
I don’t remember mine giving me any trouble.
 

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Just thought I'd update this thread as I replaced the starter today. I did it without removing the throttle bodies. I did remove the tank, airbox, coolant tank, and thermostat/ housing. From there I was able to remove the screws and slide the starter out the side. I also installed a new lithium battery, changed the oil, and replaced the coolant with distilled water/ Water Wetter.

I'm super pumped because this seems to have resolved my slow starting issue which has plagued my bike for as long as I've owned it (and many others here from what I've read). Not sure if it was the starter or the battery which was the main culprit, but the bike fires up right away now!
 
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