Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums banner
1 - 1 of 1 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to explain how to charge a brand new right out of the box, BS (Battery acid Supplied) style batteries. But first a little story and how I like to test my own equipment. I bought a leftover bike and the battery sat dry in the bike for over 2 years.

Wondering if the battery had a shelf life, I called Yuasa and began to talk to a tech about the question. He said it was good to go and then explained how they take their competitors batteries and, I believe the same instructions are in the small print that comes with the battery.

Anyway, his process was to pour the acid in the battery and let it sit for an hour at least so the acid gets to soak into the fiber material. The first thing was to charge it to full range. Here is were a little formula comes in when buying the right battery charger for the right size battery.

If we use a 12N12a size battery, the formula is to move the decimal point over to the right once so now 12a reads 1.2a. We now have to meet a charger that has a minimum of 1.2 amps; read at the back of the charger. If say it is a 12N14a battery size, we now read the back of the charger to meet or exceed 1.4 amps. The next part of the formula is the hours to be charged. So that literally means to charge the new battery for 12 hours at 1.2 amps.

This is now the next day and we then drain the battery down to 1 or 2v, then charge the battery up for 12 hours again. Drain a third time, where I use a high beam headlight bulb and a brake light side of the taillight and hook those to a car jumper cable. Third time is when you place the fully charged battery into service.

Test wise, I used a round of 4 test mules and all I can tell you are the results of my past and current battery being tested. The shelf life battery was prepared by this process and sold that 6 year old battery that mostly sat in the bike and was charged maybe 4 times before sold.

The other mules were 8 years on average. The dealer quick and dirty usually 5 years with a wet/wait/charge if not wet and charge... customer waiting. Current mule was wet and charge. Average batteries were usually 12.7~12.8v read statically with key on before starting. Current battery is 12.4v. So I expect 5 years or less for this one.

We then discussed how they speed up the time charging and said it would be fine to use a 10a charger with a caveat. It's all about heat and to make sure the battery did not get hot. That sort of popped in my head about the size of a boil about to bust thru the fiber, rather than champagne bubbles up the glass and out of the fiber that way.

That made sense to me and I never let it really get hot, but went right back and let the acid mix real well with the water for the longer hours. Figured that too makes me thing how to keep that oil and water fully mixed being cycled so early. Then I came across a definition of electricity and I use that as a troubleshooting guide.

"Magnetism: You cannot separate the heat from the chemical reaction." That immediately made me think of all that white acid on the battery posts and oh, that sounds like, looks like something to remember like fuel/spark/compression. I hear heat, I pull out the mag-theory and work it out.

Yes, it's days of prepping for a few years more out of the chemical reaction going on in those few hours. No guarantee you bought a new post-wet waiting to go, and I doubt the dealer has time to wet and prep, so your attempt to drain it not fresh out of the box, I have no clue? Your test if you choose. But now, you might want to pep it and put the hours in it. I've done my research and would like to pass it on...if you believe the junk science... and still going... rabbit bangs the drum slowly I turn, step by step.
 
1 - 1 of 1 Posts
Top