[2.wheels.drift]

Look at the last pic I posted it is for the 02 03 Model - it has all your answers.

Yes, thanks ChR1z. Studying your photo and the image of the transistor sorted it.

I can also say that if you get the wiring sequence wrong to the transistor it simply does its tacho dance error response. Didn't fry anything.

 

[2.wheels.drift]

I'd really appreciate if someone can see the error in my work

The first time I put this together I didn't take in the information regarding the transistor. Now, I know that I've wired it correctly, according to the diagram of the transistor and it's 3 poles.

I am still getting the tacho bounce. Could someone brighter than I run their eyes over what I've attached? The wire colouring is servo side and I realise harness side there is some difference.

Could I have fried the transistor with previously wiring wrong? I'd appreciate any assessment of my work.

Thanks

Phillip

 

[cyclepsycho7]

A few questions for my 06 R1 with PCIII and Termi slippon with Y pipe and still has the EXUP connected. My bike has been dyno tuned many years ago and still runs perfect, as well now as when 1st dyno tuned. What are the main differences in performance if I were to eliminate the EXUP? I realize I will lose some bottom end but how noticeable will it be? How much mid-top end will you gain and can you actually feel it? Will the bike have to be re-dyno tuned? Unless it's a major difference I'll probably leave well enough alone but just figured I'd ask.

 

[sss r1]

The first time I put this together I didn't take in the information regarding the transistor. Now, I know that I've wired it correctly, according to the diagram of the transistor and it's 3 poles.

I am still getting the tacho bounce. Could someone brighter than I run their eyes over what I've attached? The wire colouring is servo side and I realise harness side there is some difference.

Could I have fried the transistor with previously wiring wrong? I'd appreciate any assessment of my work.

Thanks

Phillip

your circuit is ok . as long as you use the right components .
did you check all component numbers etc ?

i'll look for yzf1000 wiring diagram , maybe the colors are different
update:
ok i checked the diagram .
if all the components are correct , try to swap between the 2 motor power wires (swap between black/yellow and black/red connections on the plug)

 

[2.wheels.drift]

Still Got Errors

your circuit is ok . as long as you use the right components .
did you check all component numbers etc ?

i'll look for yzf1000 wiring diagram , maybe the colors are different
update:
ok i checked the diagram .
if all the components are correct , try to swap between the 2 motor power wires (swap between black/yellow and black/red connections on the plug)

Thanks for taking the time here.

Alas, something is up. I thought I may have damaged the transistor previously by wiring it wrong so I went back to the electronic shop and got some more. I inquired about how fragile the components were and and the reply was transistors are, but the capacitors physically buckle if they get fried - as do the resistors.

With my new transistor soldered in and trying the swap between MP 1 and MP 2 we are still getting the tacho going up to 7 every 5 seconds.

I know the Cap is right. I gave the shop the list at the start. Guess that leaves the diode as the possible culprit.

I'll try this one more time.

 

[sss r1]

Thanks for taking the time here.

Alas, something is up. I thought I may have damaged the transistor previously by wiring it wrong so I went back to the electronic shop and got some more. I inquired about how fragile the components were and and the reply was transistors are, but the capacitors physically buckle if they get fried - as do the resistors.

With my new transistor soldered in and trying the swap between MP 1 and MP 2 we are still getting the tacho going up to 7 every 5 seconds.

I know the Cap is right. I gave the shop the list at the start. Guess that leaves the diode as the possible culprit.

I'll try this one more time.

do you have the original exup motor ?
can you measure the resistance between the GND wire and the one going to 5V on the exup motor wiring ?
maybe the open / close timing is different for the yzf1000 , i dont know .

 

[cyclepsycho7]

Can someone that has done this mod please answer my previous post #143. I'd really like to know weather it's worth it along with the pro's and con's.

 

[2.wheels.drift]

Hey Thanks SSS,

I do have the servo and will get my multimeter on to it asap. In reference to the image I posted yesterday, can you indicate which is the 5 volt?
Is it the one that isn't used in this circuit above?

The ground I've labelled - the black and white.

Appreciate your help here.

 

[2.wheels.drift]

I've identified the 5 volt by the earlier images. It is the blue one on the harness side and the only one not used by the circuit? If that is correct my readings are;

With multi meter on the 20k setting we have a reading of 7.7

Hope this may help identify my issue.

Thanks for your patience.

 

[sss r1]

I've identified the 5 volt by the earlier images. It is the blue one on the harness side and the only one not used by the circuit? If that is correct my readings are;

With multi meter on the 20k setting we have a reading of 7.7

Hope this may help identify my issue.

Thanks for your patience.

your readings are good . so the servo is the same as r1 . maybe the speed it turns is different , i dont know .
on the pic you posted , the flat part (where the marking is) of the transistor is facing the camera , right ?
what are the marking on the transistor ?

 

[Redgecko]

Can someone that has done this mod please answer my previous post #143. I'd really like to know weather it's worth it along with the pro's and con's.

Unless you are searching for that last ounce of top end I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[2.wheels.drift]

Sorry for delay. Been out of town a few days.

Yes, the image of the circuit I posted above has the flat aspect to the camera, the curved to the table.

The transistor has the following description on the flat surface;

2n 700
- E45

I got a new transistor as I'd wired it wrong on my first attempt and thought I may have damaged it.

The resistors are 1.5 ohm
The cap says 450 microU. It has 63 volt stamped on it too.

Thanks for your ongoing efforts

 

[sss r1]

Sorry for delay. Been out of town a few days.

Yes, the image of the circuit I posted above has the flat aspect to the camera, the curved to the table.

The transistor has the following description on the flat surface;

2n 700
- E45

I got a new transistor as I'd wired it wrong on my first attempt and thought I may have damaged it.

The resistors are 1.5 ohm
The cap says 450 microU. It has 63 volt stamped on it too.

Thanks for your ongoing efforts

transistor should be 2N7000 , not 2N700 , that one is totally different transistor.
resistors are 1.5k ohm . i hope they are not 1.5 ohm . 1.5k = 1500ohm :wink2:
capacitor is ok , but i just noticed that i didn't mention in my original diagram where the + and - of the capacitor go .
the capacitor has marking on the (-) side (usually silver strip with - - - markings) , this pin should be connected to GND wire .

 

[2.wheels.drift]

I've Got Capacitor Wrong

transistor should be 2N7000 , not 2N700 , that one is totally different transistor.
resistors are 1.5k ohm . i hope they are not 1.5 ohm . 1.5k = 1500ohm :wink2:
capacitor is ok , but i just noticed that i didn't mention in my original diagram where the + and - of the capacitor go .
the capacitor has marking on the (-) side (usually silver strip with - - - markings) , this pin should be connected to GND wire .

Thank You SSS,

It crossed my mind that the Cap may have issues. I can see from your information regarding the capacitor that I've wired it back to front. That is the silver strip you refer to? It not currently going to the GND.

I've incorrectly stated the resistors and they are 1.5 K. I will review completely as per your suggestions.

Considering I'm just another talking head blundering away (with bad eyes - it is 7000 on the transistor) , it's real decent of you to take the time you have here.

I'll report back and hopefully the persistence will get us a win.

Thanks

Phillip

 

[2.wheels.drift]

Just don't know SSS. I've attached my new circuit.

Bought all new components as the electronic shop said the heat from solder can damage.

I tried swapping MP 1 and MP 2. I checked that all connections were making contact.

I've only got the same tacho bounce.

It's not making sense as I'm sure the wiring is correct based on my past mistakes.

I think we've exhausted all possibilities??

Still, thanks for having a go.

 

[sss r1]

it might have something to do with the exup turning speed on the yzf1000.
my circuit was designed based on 99 r1 exup , and components values are based on how long it takes the motor to go from close to open and vise versa .

you can play with resistor values until you get the right speed emulation .

if you want , you can try resistors from 500 ohm up to 2000 ohms (change both to same value at a time )

btw , when you connect the original exup motor the error goes away right ?

 

[2.wheels.drift]

Thanks SSS,

I bought this bike, rode home and then started work on it. I know the tacho was behaving normally on my one and only ride.

I noted the Akropovic and when I had the carbies off doing the clearances noted the servo with cable hanging off it. I thought I'd do it all properly which is how I like to maintain my bikes. Then I researched - which has led me to here.

I've only ever got the one response with it off. After about 5 secs, tacho rises to around 7, drops to zero and repeats. I guess I will connect the servo and see. Obviously if it pulls the same trick I've got issues. I'll go do this and report back. If it seems fine with servo connected I will trial resistors as suggested.

Thanks for hanging in here.

Phillip

 

[2.wheels.drift]

Just hooked the servo back up. Does exactly the same. Servo motor turned one direction about a quarter turn, then the other, stopped and the tacho went up to 8.

I know on the 10k trip back to my garage the tacho was normal. This is with ignition on and not with it running.

 

[2.wheels.drift]

I've been reading stuff about resetting the ECU. I know from working on cars that to get rid of an error code I have to take the battery leads off and touch them to reset the ECU.

Is that required here? The tacho bounce never happened before.

Of course, I could have fried my ECU with my blunders too....

 

[sss r1]

Just hooked the servo back up. Does exactly the same. Servo motor turned one direction about a quarter turn, then the other, stopped and the tacho went up to 8.

I know on the 10k trip back to my garage the tacho was normal. This is with ignition on and not with it running.

going to 8k and back is fuel sensor issue , not exup .
for exup issue the needle goes to 7k rpm .
for throttle position sensor its 3k rpms .

check your fuel sensor connection , use contact cleaner on it (and on exup connector also) and check again .