do it sooner than later mang, mine had a nasty kink right at the 90 deg bend off the fuel pump..
it was squished nearly damn flat... there's no way i was getting proper flow through which
would lead me to believe the fuel pump was working more than necessary...
my fuel map was definitely rich as fvck as I took it for a ride yesterday, i had my auto-tune on the whole time and it took a good couple hour ride to clear up all
the backfiring, popping on deceleration and such... very obvious, kinked fuel line!! i routed the new line back and around the back of the hoses/ electrical connection
from the fuel pump so its a nice damn nearly perfect circle from fuel pump to the fuel rail... and YES i have already seen temperatures drop a good 15 degrees on avg!! :bow
better fuel flow, better fuel mapping, cooler running bike due to better fuel consistency! priceless!! :fact
Had to take the bike apart to install my new quick shifter. So I decided to finally do the fuel line fix. Glad I did, I had a nice little kink in the oem hose after I cut the outside layer off to inspect.
Alright... I feel really dumb for having this problem... but I cant seem to route the fuel line on my 05. I have 18" of efi 100 psi hose, two 90 degree fuel line quick connects (what was on it when I started this project), and two high pressure clamps. Which ever way I route the hose it kinks at one end or the other and I cant seem to get it on there.
My fuel pump connector faces to the right (right leg) and my fuel rail faces straight to the back. If I route the fuel pump connector rearward it kinks on the rear shock area. If I route it forward it causes the fuel rail end to kink when it faces to the left (left leg).
Am I being that dense??? I had to walk away, I was getting frustrated that I couldn't handle something so simple...
I had a PC3 before, and had the opportunity to get a PC5. Honestly, it's just a smaller, newer unit. You can load the same map from your PC3 onto your PC5. Their might be some dyno jet add on modules that only work on the PC5, like ignition module but I'm not sure and don't need to use them. You can have a QS on both units too.
It's been a wile since my rotor assy fails, a common issue on Yamaha R1 2004-08 and fazers as everyone know.
Lucky me it didn't happen on highway at hi speeds, but in traffic.
Anyway the new part is out from Yamaha 2SH814500000, and it seems it fixes this common failure to our...
I recently attempted doing a TB sync as I used to love doing on my FZ6. I noticed that the R1 does not have the permanently attached tubes on the TB's like the FZ6 had. So I decided to add them, so that I can sync the TB's with ease in future. Here is how that went down...
Will take about 1 day including rebleeding coolant, ive borrowed some pics/steps from mrquickr1's post on smog plates since there the same.
Thanks to yamaha using hardly any glue/sub standard glue the starter motor doesnt last very long.
Remember to take photos and place bolts with the...
Theres two ways to do it. If you want to use your stock forks to keep the cost down:
Since the 99-03 R1s have 298mm rotors and a 6 bolt pattern, if you want to mount 04 or newer wheels(04-06 R1 have 320mm rotors and 5 bolt pattern rotors) on your bike you can use 03-04 R6 rotors which are 298mm...
How to build a stem mount for your GPS or Cell phone
(This was done on my 2007 R1 with a 13mm stem hole,, just change the hose size if your stem hole is a different.)
You will need:
-Suction Cup Digital Accessory Mount by tech1 (I got mine for $3 at the Dollarama here in Canada)