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Here's the PDF for the 30MM cartridge kit I have. It shows the internals of the forks. I can't get to far down there as I don't have all the tools. But, I did remove the cap, which under that is what they call the "spring support" (please check page 13) which sits on top of the spring. Then off comes the spring and the preload tube is underneath that. I can get the preload tube out, and I measured it, but don't have that with me now. So it seems that everything is in there, unless something is missing deeper than that? So would adding a spacer help correct my preload problem? And if so, add it between the spring and spring support?:dunno
If all the parts appear to be there and of proper dimensions, I'd call Thermosman (Mike F.). I can PM you his contact information if you'd like. Because neither number seems to fall within the range specified by Ohlins I am inclined to believe those springs are not preloaded enough to get the right numbers. The document you posted does show a free length of 260 mm, but I saw no reference to set length. Mike would know this information like the back of his hand.
 

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Agree with DanQ, i dont know these cartridges well enough to go any further than what we have suggested, something is deffo out of whack mind...
Im going to have a good read of the pdf later, i may email ohlins UK see what they say.

Keep us posted as you go or if any of us can help more.

Remember this is just the first hurdle in combatting your issue, not neccesarily the complete solution, but a step forward.

Suspension is not a 2minute wonder fix unfortunately.
 

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Turn and Burn!
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Thanks! Yes, Dan, please PM his info. If you can let him know I'll be reaching out that would be awesome.

I don't get it..this suspension witchcraft is beyond me! I would really be interested to see what's what and get it right.
 

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Turn and Burn!
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Thanks for the hookup Dan! I spoke with Mike today and he sounds like a really cool and knowledgeable guy! He gave me a suggestion on how to check the preload spacer by dis-assembling the fork cap, let the bike bottom out and pull up on the cartridge by the cap. There shouldn't be much, if any play. If there is, maybe the preload spacer is wrong. So I will try that as well as probably bring the oil up to recommended levels. He also said I'm not the first with this issue..so that's good. Anyway, I will do his test and see what I get. I have a race next weekend so I will give it a try with what I've done thus far. We'll go from there afterwards. Thanks again for all the help!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2,226
Thanks for the hookup Dan! I spoke with Mike today and he sounds like a really cool and knowledgeable guy! He gave me a suggestion on how to check the preload spacer by dis-assembling the fork cap, let the bike bottom out and pull up on the cartridge by the cap. There shouldn't be much, if any play. If there is, maybe the preload spacer is wrong. So I will try that as well as probably bring the oil up to recommended levels. He also said I'm not the first with this issue..so that's good. Anyway, I will do his test and see what I get. I have a race next weekend so I will give it a try with what I've done thus far. We'll go from there afterwards. Thanks again for all the help!!
Mike is awesome and knows all the intricacies of the Ohlins stuff. I'm sure he'll make sense of it.

Please post up what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #2,229
I'm around 180 pounds and I know the bike's suspension is set up for a 180 pound rider from the factory.

I'm just wondering what adjustment can I make without starting from scratch?
I'm sorry, maybe I'm misunderstanding. But without starting from scratch; what are you trying to adjust?
 

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“Rhinestone Cowboy” MF Doom
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I'm sorry, maybe I'm misunderstanding. But without starting from scratch; what are you trying to adjust?
I just want it a little stiffer for when I'm being a weekend warrior. :lol

I'm saying I want a slightly better feel in the corners adjusting the suspension from OEM settings.

Do I still not make any sense?
 

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You make sense, but im sure Dan will agree, you cant change one thing without affecting the other, there is no shortcut in suspension tuning...

For the sake of how long it would take to do a static setup and the benefits gained there is no point just aimlessly adjusting preload or compression...

You dont have to go full on tuning by changing springs, oil levels but some simple measured adjustments will pay dividends and youll thank us for it later ;-)
 

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You make sense, but im sure Dan will agree, you cant change one thing without affecting the other, there is no shortcut in suspension tuning...

For the sake of how long it would take to do a static setup and the benefits gained there is no point just aimlessly adjusting preload or compression...

You dont have to go full on tuning by changing springs, oil levels but some simple measured adjustments will pay dividends and youll thank us for it later ;-)
Precisely.

The only "true" way to make the bike stiffer is with springs. Preloading really only sets the heights of the springs, and the damping slows down or speeds up the respective event (compression or damping).

So realistically, there is not much to be gained by arbitrarily clicking things.

If you do it by the numbers not only will you get it in the ballpark the first time, you'll know how much of a range you have to work with.
 

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M.A.M. Racing team
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Check with Dan as ive not worked with Ohlins cartridge kits over here in the UK, they should have a preload spacer normally thin gauge pvc or alloy...

I think you are missing this! Combine that with springs that are shorter than oem and thats going to take the majority of your preload adjustment away...

When that is sorted then look for 33% racesag

Re the back aim for 30mm as your racing...
This is a racing ohlins cartridge with the preload spacer on the bottom of the spring for quick spring change at the track. You do not need a spring compressor for this type of cartridge..Great stuff.The spacer is on the bottom.
 

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burnin' up the streets
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This is a racing ohlins cartridge with the preload spacer on the bottom of the spring for quick spring change at the track. You do not need a spring compressor for this type of cartridge..Great stuff.The spacer is on the bottom.
Thanks for clarifying that. But how do you explain his lack of preload? Maybe the spacer's not on the bottom either? Perhaps it was overlooked....
 

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M.A.M. Racing team
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Thanks for clarifying that. But how do you explain his lack of preload? Maybe the spacer's not on the bottom either? Perhaps it was overlooked....
There has to be a peload spacer in there otherwise the fork will flop around and will not esemble properly.It seams to me that no matter what he does with the additional preload the main spring is the same...This will indicate to me that his installed preload is wrong (height of spacer) but more important is that the TOPOUT spring is soft and long,so no matter how much he cranks up the additional preload the only thing he is doing is crushing the topout spring therefore untill the topout spring is completley cruched it wont put any load on the main spring.The topout spring is for metal not hitting metal when for eg.pulling wheelies....Its located under the main spring on the rebound rod..they come in different sizes and rates...Hope this helps guys..
 

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M.A.M. Racing team
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Everything is back together. I did lower the rear about shock 5mm. The rear extended was 660MM, now it is 655MM. Here are the final measurements taken after putting everything back together and REMOVING ALL PRELOAD:

FRONT:
131MM Extended
95MM Resting
80MM w/rider and gear

REAR:
655MM Extended
638MM Resting
620MM w/rider and gear.

Suggestions?

I have a couple of questions:
It seems like the front is out of wack trying to reach 25-30mm. What options do I have?

The rear seems close..maybe add preload?

Will decreasing the rear 5MM have much affect on the bike geo/ride height and handling?

While adding some preload on the front left, I hear this noise coming from inside the fork cartridge. Sounded like something sharp, snapping into place. After adding/removing preload again, never heard it again. Could something break in there by just twisting preload in?

Thanks!
The 5mm change in ride height you mentioned was at the seat 660-655 not at the shock,Your change at the shock would be aprox.2.5mm Always remember....1mm change at the shock is 2-3mm at the seat. Also may i ask why are you targeting a 25-30mm rider sag in th front? That is aprox 23% of your full travel(siting high in the stroke),You should me aiming for 33%of total travel(1/3 of 130mm total travel) witch is 43mm,you will be working in the sweet spot for range.To do that you would have to work with your installed preload with your spacer inside the fork (not additional preload) and oil levels for bottom resistance That works great,,Iam also 170 lbs with gear so thats how i set up my 08 R1 racebike with very aggresive riding..Hope this helps my freind.
 

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Turn and Burn!
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Update

Thanks all for the help and suggestions! You as well M.A.M, I will be looking at that sag number in the front. Here's the update from last weekend's race. From the get-go, the bike felt great. It took most of the Friday trackday to get used to the changes, trying different areas of the track here and there. But, by Saturday's race, I was very comfortable and the bike felt dialed in! No more front end issues. It felt great and no bottoming out under hard braking, and I still have 20mm of travel to play with!

By race two the rear needed a little tweaking. It was tearing up the new tire pretty fast. I removed one turn of preload and two turns of rebound. It cleaned up pretty quickly. But other than that, the bike was not sliding nearly as much, and I felt very confident coming out of the corners. There was a little sliding, but very predictable. I did 1 practice session, qualifiying and 2 six lap races and the tire was done. Although, I did take a 1st and 2nd place in both races and put down a personal best time of 1:52.9, which is a time of most experts, and I didn't fell out of shape doing it. I had to chase down 1st place, but I caught him with one lap to go and was able to hold him off (Brent) :yesnod

For Sunday's race, I had to put on a new tire for two more races. It was very windy and ugly so I wasn't pushing too hard. I almost took another first place, but barely missed and took 2 second places! Here's a picture of the tire after 1 practice session and 2 races. The track temp was kind of cold, but I was running a decent pace and the tire looks pretty good to me..

I also had a buddy that normally races a 600 take my bike out for a spin. He was throughly impressed how the bike handled. He said it tipped in easy, felt very stable under braking, cornered well, etc. That was great to hear from someone riding a smaller, more nimble bike!
 

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Klaus Von Slowpoke
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Although, I did take a 1st and 2nd place in both races and put down a personal best time of 1:52.9, which is a time of most experts, and I didn't feel out of shape doing it. I had to chase down 1st place, but I caught him with one lap to go and was able to hold him off (Brent) :yesnod
Dude! OutSTANDing! :yea: :rock :bow

For Sunday's race, I had to put on a new tire for two more races. It was very windy and ugly so I wasn't pushing too hard. I almost took another first place, but barely missed and took 2 second places!
Hey, it was windy in Long Beach sunday morning, I was thinking about Chucky and figuring it was bad out there. Doin' work brutha! Enjoy the yellow plates for now, I'm thinking class championship for you and white plates next season - if not before! Well done! :beer
 

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Turn and Burn!
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Thanks!! It was a good race :yea: I don't know about a class championship, there is another fella out there tearing it up. If I'm not on my A game everytime, he walks away. He is leading in both category's, but I am not far behind in SuperSport! White plates for sure next year. I already have them made. :tocoo:
 
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