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What would be a good setting for street riding with me being 6'5" at 260 lbs? i mean besides me losing weight (lol) 2011 R1 with stock suspension forks and rear shock. Ive read this entire thread which will come in handy when I go to the track. Any thoughts on settings or opinions?
Not really a setting, but start with changing out your springs. I finally did it after owning the bike for 2.5 years.
 

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What would be a good setting for street riding with me being 6'5" at 260 lbs? i mean besides me losing weight (lol) 2011 R1 with stock suspension forks and rear shock. Ive read this entire thread which will come in handy when I go to the track. Any thoughts on settings or opinions?
New springs bro. Easiest answer. It all starts with sag and geometry.
 

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Crash OverRide
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So new springs then set up as per the formula as per this thread?
 

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So new springs then set up as per the formula as per this thread?
That would be a cost effective way of doing it. Realistically you may over-power the dampers with stiffer springs, but for street use the springs may be all you need.
 

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Crash OverRide
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Okay thanks for the replies, Ill check on springs and what it takes to install. I'm sure its not that difficult to install, I'm mechanical savvy and could probably get-r-done. Thanks again!
 

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Hi folks,

I need a review from all of you to my fork settings (2003 Yamaha R1).
BTW: I documented a lot of my work on YT
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-G8pv7dRZ63jh6YFtbaJ5g/playlists

First of all let me tell you what I've done.
- new seals
- new oil (mixed to [email protected]°C - same as ohlins FG43 oil 01309)
- new lower bushing
- polished lower fork tube
- new springs with 9.5 - my weight without gear is 85kg
- 110mm air
Everything works fine. So I started to find out the settings.

My sag is 31mm with preload set on 7 rings visible...I am riding on the street

I tried to find out the rebound with the "Dave Moss Method". In fact my arms hurts like hell now.
I find out, also with the help of a friend that the rebound seems to work at 14 clicks out. the fork was indeed incredibly cold...i know. Is this a good value? If the suspension is warmed up...should I go around 2 or 3 clicks stiffer?

Regarding the compression side...I have to figure out with the zip-tie-method what would fit my ridings style...I gonna start at 10 clicks out...

Looking forward to your thoughts and advices...maybe one of you has the same setup and give me some useful advices
 

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Anyone able to help with an Ohlins Shock shim stack, or has access to ohlins database.

just got an Ohlins rear shock, stripped for service...

the stacks have been changed and unsure of the rebound bleed jet size, i have the spec card for the shock and the comp stack hugely differs.

Its got a 90n spring, used 85-90 on my wp comp shock. Based upon 75% fast road (not commuter)/25% track use, novice group. 99 race prepped R1so a few kg lighter than oem and my weight of 63kg in riding gear.

I can post the stack list if needed both oem and current.

Would like to know if stack is suitanle or should it be changed for me..???

Thanks in advance
I've seen you on the IBSF? That place is a bit dead now, not much activity the last few times I've been there, which is a shame. I doubt anyone here knows enough to answer your question. If I had the shock I'd be happy to share the stack configs.
 

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Johannesburg, South-Africa
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Hi Guys,
Please help, I recently bought the 2014 R1 and started adjusting the suspension. I tried to apply the same settings I used for my 2008 R1, but this model is way different, on the right side you have rebound and on the left compression.

Not a biggie,
I have 2 lines showing (which is standard) and I have 44mm sag, I know this is too high but with standard compression I notice the ziptie is all the way at the bottom of the fork. So I tried to increase the compression by 5 clicks out from full hard. Yet still I see the zip tie is almost at the bottom.

Are these models known for having a soft front?
 

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ey there,

OK, so you have a fork which is a seperate function fork, it works exactly the samer because the axle is what holds the front end together so the forks act as one unit effectively.

OK Front Race(rider sag) 44MM, you want 40mm as your starting point with static sag 20-30mm if your on the road. For a Track bike i will start with a baseline of 35mm race/20-25static...

Once you have set the sags, check the rebound as rebound and sag have a direct correlation to each other due to the amount of tension placed on the spring. All sag does is alter the ctr of gravity, and is a ride height adjuster, nothing else. It does bnot make the bike softer/stiffer as many misunderstand. However what it does do is change the amount of force required to get the spring moving thru the 1st mm of travel, but don't worry about that.

Once you have set rebound then go with compression, you say your at 5 clicks out and using full travel, ok if you have the correct sag numbers then the spring would be good to go, on the 2014R1 the spring rates are 9N/mm front and 98.1N rear... The front is undersprung for anybody over 65kg.

If you have good spring rates and good sag numbers then without revalving the compression stack you could try adding 5-10ml of fork oil in both legs as this will decrease the air gap and increase resistance to bottoming.
 

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Johannesburg, South-Africa
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ey there,

OK, so you have a fork which is a seperate function fork, it works exactly the samer because the axle is what holds the front end together so the forks act as one unit effectively.

OK Front Race(rider sag) 44MM, you want 40mm as your starting point with static sag 20-30mm if your on the road. For a Track bike i will start with a baseline of 35mm race/20-25static...

Once you have set the sags, check the rebound as rebound and sag have a direct correlation to each other due to the amount of tension placed on the spring. All sag does is alter the ctr of gravity, and is a ride height adjuster, nothing else. It does bnot make the bike softer/stiffer as many misunderstand. However what it does do is change the amount of force required to get the spring moving thru the 1st mm of travel, but don't worry about that.

Once you have set rebound then go with compression, you say your at 5 clicks out and using full travel, ok if you have the correct sag numbers then the spring would be good to go, on the 2014R1 the spring rates are 9N/mm front and 98.1N rear... The front is undersprung for anybody over 65kg.

If you have good spring rates and good sag numbers then without revalving the compression stack you could try adding 5-10ml of fork oil in both legs as this will decrease the air gap and increase resistance to bottoming.
Ok, im now really at a loss... I managed to get 41mm sag in the front with 5 preload lines showing, I took the bike for a ride with stock comp en rebound settings... the zip tie still bottomed out under braking.
I could feel the front end did feel allot more stable and precise.

So I then dialed in ALL compression, I turned that clicker full hard and went for another ride... still the zip tie went all the way to the bottom under breaking. The bike did have a tendency to do endo's much easier.

I get the feeling the fork springs may be too soft... I dont know... anyone?

What am I missing here...:frown2:
 

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Another thing to consider with that generation is the progressive spring used in the fork. So if replacement is ever a thought, there is a good gain to be had by switching to the appropriate tension straight rate spring.
 

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Ok, im now really at a loss... I managed to get 41mm sag in the front with 5 preload lines showing, I took the bike for a ride with stock comp en rebound settings... the zip tie still bottomed out under braking.
I could feel the front end did feel allot more stable and precise.

So I then dialed in ALL compression, I turned that clicker full hard and went for another ride... still the zip tie went all the way to the bottom under breaking. The bike did have a tendency to do endo's much easier.

I get the feeling the fork springs may be too soft... I dont know... anyone?

What am I missing here...:frown2:
Like race engineer said - just add 20mL of fork oil per leg and that should take care of your bottoming out under max braking. Thats the cheapest and easiest way to fix that one issue you're having with the fork under braking. Changing the springs, preload and the compression settings will affect the fork all over the rest of the lap which you may not want. If you try the 20mL of oil and still bottom out try another 10 - 20mL. If you don't know the history of the fork ie. the service history - then you might be starting from a real unknown in terms of fork oil height...

Read this for the real explaination of what you are trying to accomplish:

http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/oilheight.htm
 

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Just got a 16 R1. I'm 170lbs without gear, 6'. Bike was in factory settings. I measured sag on rear, I decreased preload (turned two rings on shock up by 3 full turns). Rear feels ok. Front does not feel razor sharp. Sag was not changing much on the front. It's gonna be a dedicated track bike.

What would be ideal sag, comp, and reb settings? I did have a suspension guy help but I did not like how the bike felt. I put it back to above settings.
 

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Never too old to let 'er rip
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My son races motocross. One piece of advice I was given a few years ago and I have passed along a number of times is not to be so concerned about horsepower; that the two most important components to going fast are suspension and tires. I guess it could be argued that, maybe not to the same extent, but especially for tight, twisty roads, the same applies to sportbikes.

Obviously on the track, HP become a relatively bigger factor.
 

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I'm gravedigging threads again......place is slow on here.
I am 5ft7(muscle midget lol) 160lbs so the R1 is quite a brutal bike. That said, i wonder if there are any others out there with same weight that have found DECENT settings of preload and compression damping for street use, that's where i do almost all of my riding nowdays. I have the r1 s, no ERC fancy stuff here. This is my 6th sportbike over the last 20 years so i've got some experience but i want to see if anyone else found the right clicks for street at my weight. Save time tinkering. Thanks a lot
 

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My view is there is no generic 'right clicks' for any rider weight combo. I know you want to save time tinkering but there is no real substitute for it. Just know what effect each adjustment has to start with. (See the first pages of this thread)

I think the general advice would be if you don't want to spend money start from factory settings, set the sag and start tinkering from there.
If you're willing to spend a modest amount get the right springs for your weight, set the sag and then start tinkering.
If you want to spend lots, upgrade the lot and pay someone to do the tinkering.
 
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