Ignition advancer?
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As far as I know, it gives the fuel to your engine before the stock setup would. If you can get the right "degree" you could theoretically have more mixture in the cylinder before the spark, thus creating greater compression.
It creates more power in the low and mid ranges, but I believ it does something funky at the high end? Washes out maybe? Perhaps there is too much mixture for proper compression.
I think this is best used with an aftermarket exhaust, which would have a different pressure flow.
I belive simply using a pcIII would be more efficient, because it would remap low and mid without ruining the high end.
Anyone else?
J
It creates more power in the low and mid ranges, but I believ it does something funky at the high end? Washes out maybe? Perhaps there is too much mixture for proper compression.
I think this is best used with an aftermarket exhaust, which would have a different pressure flow.
I belive simply using a pcIII would be more efficient, because it would remap low and mid without ruining the high end.
Anyone else?
J
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631 Posts
I put a Vance and Hines ignition advancer on my RF900 back in '95
I was told that due to the variable fuel quality in various world markets the manufacterers of the Bikes retard the ignition slightly to prevent detonation for the worst case scenario of fuel.
In Oz our fuel is very good quality so an ignition advancer, advances the timing a degree or to to optimum settings for excellent fuel.
For $80.00 the results were excellent.
A ten minute fitting resulted in much better lower rev range performance, much improved economy and smother engine operation.
To fit it was just a matter of removing the r/h rotor cover from the engine, unbolting the stock ingnition rotor and bolting in the new one.
I dont know about the newer bikes, but it was certainly worth doing on my RF900
I was told that due to the variable fuel quality in various world markets the manufacterers of the Bikes retard the ignition slightly to prevent detonation for the worst case scenario of fuel.
In Oz our fuel is very good quality so an ignition advancer, advances the timing a degree or to to optimum settings for excellent fuel.
For $80.00 the results were excellent.
A ten minute fitting resulted in much better lower rev range performance, much improved economy and smother engine operation.
To fit it was just a matter of removing the r/h rotor cover from the engine, unbolting the stock ingnition rotor and bolting in the new one.
I dont know about the newer bikes, but it was certainly worth doing on my RF900
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I thought it sparked the fuel in the cylinder sooner/later depending on degree. But I really don't know and shouldn't be writing this other than the fact I'm curious myself. I've heard they're difficult to get just the right setup. Martinc can tell us.
PC
PC
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631 Posts
This "sooner or later" is called advancing or retarding the ignition.Problem Child said:
On my RF900, the part was a solid machined rotor to replace the existing ingnition timer rotor on the end of the crank.
This affected where in the rotation of the crank the ignition fired.
Hence affecting detonation etc
On new bike this can be altered eletroniclly through PCIII's etc.
I dont know if solid machined ignition pick ups are still availbale, but the priciple would be the same for the electronic versions
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Well since I got my PCIII on my doorstep last night I guess I'm in business. Thanks man.
PC
PC
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An ignition advancer is simply a replacement ignition trigger for your bike. The trigger is usually bolted onto the end of your crankshaft. It's a disc shaped piece with "fingers" on it that rotates with the crank. The fingers pass by a sensor which tells the computer when to fire the next spark off into the appropriate cylinder. If you've advanced the ignition, you basically just set it to spark sooner than it would with the stock piece. If the ignition was retarded then it would spark later than it normally would have. This needs to be tuned on a dyno! If you advance your ignition too far you can blow up your motor!!!
Also, some bikes (CBR900RR comes to mind) don't like advanced timing and actually make more power with the ignition retarded.
If you really want to advance the ignition, the most your ass-o-meter is going to tell you is this: More advance = better low end grunt (which R1's have plenty of). What most people don't know is that there is more chance of detonation which will blow up your motor eventually. Make sure you run premium octane fuel.
If you've got a Fuel Injected bike with a PCIII, you probably won't need an ignition advancer. I believe the PCIII actually has timing adjustment settings in it.
Also, some bikes (CBR900RR comes to mind) don't like advanced timing and actually make more power with the ignition retarded.
If you really want to advance the ignition, the most your ass-o-meter is going to tell you is this: More advance = better low end grunt (which R1's have plenty of). What most people don't know is that there is more chance of detonation which will blow up your motor eventually. Make sure you run premium octane fuel.
If you've got a Fuel Injected bike with a PCIII, you probably won't need an ignition advancer. I believe the PCIII actually has timing adjustment settings in it.
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93 Posts
So if you had a PCIIIr and the ignition map was blank, where would you start to change the ignition. The map that I downloaded from Martinc's website had the ignition retarted in the low end and advanced in the upper range. I spoke with my friend that races and he said that I needed to work on my F/A mixture before i work with timing at all. I went in and pulled all the timing changes out that were programmed into the map and really didn't tell a difference. It felt a little weaker but I was running it last at sea level and not here at home in the hills.
Is the computer capable of advancing and retarding enough to not be an issue? Where should the advance be entered? With the electronic change, it isn't like the older motors that have it or not. Is there a better part in the lower end of teh rev range where there should be some advance and then pull it out at the top end? Where does it really work best?
Thank you for the help...
Chris
BTW.. my mods are a BMC race air filter, velocity stacks,Throttle body slide stops, AIS block offs, Ivan's airbox mod, full micron serpent system and PCIIIr.
I want to get a krank vent before I dyno because I seem to throw a fair amount of oil into the airbox on the racetrack so I want to have it out of there before they put a sniffer on the dyno so that it doesn't read richer than it is because of the extra oil residue. I know it is minimal, but still.
Is the computer capable of advancing and retarding enough to not be an issue? Where should the advance be entered? With the electronic change, it isn't like the older motors that have it or not. Is there a better part in the lower end of teh rev range where there should be some advance and then pull it out at the top end? Where does it really work best?
Thank you for the help...
Chris
BTW.. my mods are a BMC race air filter, velocity stacks,Throttle body slide stops, AIS block offs, Ivan's airbox mod, full micron serpent system and PCIIIr.
I want to get a krank vent before I dyno because I seem to throw a fair amount of oil into the airbox on the racetrack so I want to have it out of there before they put a sniffer on the dyno so that it doesn't read richer than it is because of the extra oil residue. I know it is minimal, but still.
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93 Posts
So what would be the most accurate way to establish a baseline for the ignition trigger that is adjustable with the power commander?
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