Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok so here goes, I noticed a leak a while back when my dad did a starter rebuild kit after removing the thermostat housing and connecting tubes/pipes. The thermostat pipe(metal) has an O-ring that I ordered from Yamaha that took forever to get here, when it arrived I no longer had a visible leak so I figured I'd let it go for a little bit and replace it the next time I saw the leak. Well other day I did start to see a leak so I went to replace it, when my dad put the bike back together after he did the starter rebuild kit he told me the old bolt to the pipe was stripped and no good he replaced it with some Harbor freight trash and lo and behold it snapped off clean about a 1/4 inch into the hole. I don't have a lot of free time to be messing with things so I got a buddy of mine to drill it out. Well he drilled it out on an angle(left) and too far in(into motor) so i hit it with jb weld on the left side where he poked through bc it was leaking coolant there and it has since stopped but now the issue i am having is coolant now enters the bolt hole for said pipe which i am fairly certain it did not do before. Does anyone know what can be done if anything? I am losing my mind and everyone is playing the blame game and idc i just want to get her back out on the road even if it's not a guarantee that it will fix it. I have been told I need a new motor, been told to cut my losses, been told buddy owes me a new motor and also told it can be welded and frankly I just dont know how to proceed.
1019674
 

·
Registered
'08 r1
Joined
·
1,250 Posts
If the hole is a clean pass, that means you have metal in the case now. Oil strainer or the filter will catch it though, so no big deal. If I were in your shoes, I'd measure the hole and then I'd tap the whole thing. Then I'd get a set screw the right pitch and some red lock tight and I'd run it down to the bottom of the pass as a plug. Then I'd measure the depth and put a fastener that fit the bill in there. That's the quick easy dirty way to fix that one.

The right way is to tear it down, clean it up, fire it (heat it up to about 300° f) and clean it again. Then, tig weld the crack. Then buy new gaskets and bearings. Then reassemble.

The cheap right way is to buy another motor and never let other people touch it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you very much for the reply, are we talking a whole motor, or can I get away with just the cylinder head and new gaskets? Or would that mess something else up seeing as it's not been worn the same or something? I can definitely say for sure nobody else will be touching anything for me again.
 

·
Registered
'08 r1
Joined
·
1,250 Posts
Do you still have the missing piece? If so, that ain't so bad. Get her welded up. If there isn't a hole through the case you don't even need to do a tear down. From the description I thought that was way worse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
475 Posts
Oh my!! :eek:
there is a LOT of bad going on in that picture.
broken retaining bolt, broken engine block, misdrilled hole, DIRTY coolant passage, and maybe even the worst part..... the oring seat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's all the way through, coolant is coming from the bolt hole and I do still have the pieces(it came off In 2) even after welding those two pieces back on it would still leak through the bolt hole right? Lol the o- ring is brand new, when I removed the pipe for a better look at what was going on it stayed like that, immediately after the pic I removed it and put it where I wouldn't lose it. Yeah I have noticed that rust situation the first couple of times I did a coolant flush but it has seemed to calm down a bit within the last couple of flushes and become less noticeable in the used coolant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
475 Posts
I wasn’t referring to the oring itself Brother. I am talking about the actual seat that the oring sits in and seals against. It looks damaged maybe but is hard to tell as the oring in the picture is blocking the view of 180* of the sealing surface.
if you do get the bolt boss welded up and retapped like Numbers stated in a post previously, you will want to clean up this area till it is the color of raw aluminum / like new if you want the oring to seal up and get rid of your leak. That is my opinion anyhow.
motto= cleanliness is next to Godliness
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,767 Posts
When it comes to machinery, I don't skimp on the quality of nuts & bolts. Next time do it yourself, or hire a certified/insured mechanic. Looks as if a considerable chunk of metal has broken off. I don't know what the best avenue would be to pursue.

Good luck
 

·
Registered
'08 r1
Joined
·
1,250 Posts
Good call yz.

OP, since it is a clean pass, get the busted @#$% part re welded. Drill it clean. Re tap it all the way through. Put some red lock tight at the bottom, put a set screw in it, let it set. Measure the depth. Get a new bolt.

If you want to epoxy it, you can, but you will have to drill some small holes to run copper wire through both parts. You'll still have to seal the bottom with a set screw, but it will save having to weld it. I'd try for 3 holes big enough for telephone wire. You'll also have to let the epoxy cure for 24 hours before you try to put the bolt back in.

Or get another engine.

If you can't put a coolant pipe in, I don't know why you think you can just get a set of rings and new gaskets and swap the top end. I'm not trying to be trite, but bro, you don't want to do a top end on this thing, trust me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Coolant exit is from the cylinder head. You could remove cylinder head from the engine and try to find some good workshop which performs aluminium welding repairs. After adding material to the damaged bolt seat you must level it on milling machine, drill the hole, make a new thread or make a thread for steel helicoil. Before putting the bolt try to use loctite for thread secure and sealing.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top