[npsmith1285]

i cant for the life of me get my clutch to engage.

The teeth are facing the rear of the bike. I get the teeth to engage the clutch cover. I also get the points lined up correctly. But all i'm getting is spring tension on the clutch lever.

I took the clutch cover off t replace it. I did not touch any of the clutch parts. And i noticed that the clutch push rod(4xv-16356-01), wobbles. It can flop down with ease, and be pushed and pulled in the direction of the clutch assembly, but does not come out. Is this normal? and what could be wrong? And when i take the oil cap off, i can see the spindle moving in and out when i rotate the arm that houses the cable.

I've looked at alot of forums and videos online. Nothing is really helping. Im thinking the teeth aren't catching correctly. I've spent countless hours and popped the clutch cover on and off a thousand times. No luck.

 

[Sharksawyer]

It's an art to put the cover back on. Here's what I do:

1. Leave the bike on the side stand. The push rod is held in place by a film of oil and if the bike is vertical, it will flop.

2. Remove the oil filler cap.

3. Rotate the push lever so it faces about the center of the rear wheel.

4. Have a friend shine a flashlight down the oil filler hole as you push the cover on.

5. Rotate the push lever forward until you feel resistance. The dot and arrow should line up. If it doesn't, rotated the push lever backwards. This will push the cover off and when the gears disengage, it will skip one tooth. Push the cover back on and see where you are. Rinse and repeat if necessary. You might have to try it 2 or 3 times to get it right.

6. If all else fails, just push the cover on, remove the c-clip on the push lever and pull it off. Install it so the dot and arrow line up. A lot of guys do this because they are losers and can't do it the right way

Mark

 

[npsmith1285]

You say the side stand. What exactly does that refer to? I thought it was bad for bike to lay on side...

 

[Sharksawyer]

kickstand

Mark

 

[npsmith1285]

It's an art to put the cover back on. Here's what I do:

1. Leave the bike on the side stand. The push rod is held in place by a film of oil and if the bike is vertical, it will flop.

2. Remove the oil filler cap.

3. Rotate the push lever so it faces about the center of the rear wheel.

4. Have a friend shine a flashlight down the oil filler hole as you push the cover on.

5. Rotate the push lever forward until you feel resistance. The dot and arrow should line up. If it doesn't, rotated the push lever backwards. This will push the cover off and when the gears disengage, it will skip one tooth. Push the cover back on and see where you are. Rinse and repeat if necessary. You might have to try it 2 or 3 times to get it right.

6. If all else fails, just push the cover on, remove the c-clip on the push lever and pull it off. Install it so the dot and arrow line up. A lot of guys do this because they are losers and can't do it the right way

Mark

What exactly do you mean by push lever? I am just making sure im not assuming anything.

And I have done what you said. Or at least i think so. I just cant get it. so frustrating.

 

[Dillwinn]

I am having the exact same issue, were you able to get it back on?

 

[chaka433]

Its a pain in the ass, go past the dot and keep trying.once it goes into place the dots will line up.

 

[andrewstclair]

The rod with the teeth engages into the cover long before it Is seated to the engine you you have to have the lever the cable attaches to spun quite a bit away from the cable so that once it makes contact inside you can turn that lever and it should suck the cover tight and end up all lines up in one shot. If it doesn't make it close enough start over but turn the lever so it starts a little closer. If it turns too far and the cover isn't tight or the lever goes too far and you only feel spring tension then you need rotate the lever counter clockwise until it pushed the cover away from the motor and you hear one notable click. That's it skipping a tooth and you try seeing if it will light up again. The only way you wouldn't be getting tension is that you didn't put your clutch together properly like maybe forgot clutch springs or something OR your doing the same thing that everyone does and aren't lining it up even though you think you are.

 

[tory ii]

I got 06. before you remove clutch parts AND just when you remove cover YOU STOP, and you put cover back on, and then keep practicing installing the cover. and you do it again and again until you confident you know how to install cover. and then you can disassemble the clutch.

before you do anything take good pic of the lever; look how the dots align (look at the dots, one is a punch mark (a dot) the other is a tiny triangle). next:

best instructions I ever seen for installing the cover is in service manual (NO ?): it says this:

"set the release arm so that it is pointing DIAGONALLY OUT AND BACK, then as the cover is installed and the teeth engage, the arm should turn in. With the cover fully installed, the alignment marks on the cover and clutch arm should be in line WHEN any backlash in the mechanism is taken up BY LIGHT FINGER PRESSURE."

what does DIAGONAL mean ? it means the arm is not to be pointed directly to the rear of bike, but to the rear of bike AND outward towards you. if it were possible to measure the angle it would be 45 degrees (not 90). arm is not to be pointed at you or the rear tire, but in between you and rear tire. and outward towards you (not the bike).

 

[chaka433]

I hope you got it by now.,

 

[Danny86 R1]

The rod with the teeth engages into the cover long before it Is seated to the engine you you have to have the lever the cable attaches to spun quite a bit away from the cable so that once it makes contact inside you can turn that lever and it should suck the cover tight and end up all lines up in one shot. If it doesn't make it close enough start over but turn the lever so it starts a little closer. If it turns too far and the cover isn't tight or the lever goes too far and you only feel spring tension then you need rotate the lever counter clockwise until it pushed the cover away from the motor and you hear one notable click. That's it skipping a tooth and you try seeing if it will light up again. The only way you wouldn't be getting tension is that you didn't put your clutch together properly like maybe forgot clutch springs or something OR your doing the same thing that everyone does and aren't lining it up even though you think you are.

so the dot is suppose to line up with the arrow once the cover is pulled tight when you turn the lever towards the cable?

 

[tory ii]

I got 06. before you remove clutch parts AND just when you remove cover YOU STOP, and you put cover back on, and then keep practicing installing the cover. and you do it again and again until you confident you know how to install cover. and then you can disassemble the clutch.

before you do anything take good pic of the lever; look how the dots align (look at the dots, one is a punch mark (a dot) the other is a tiny triangle). next:

best instructions I ever seen for installing the cover is in service manual (NO ?): it says this:

"set the release arm so that it is pointing DIAGONALLY OUT AND BACK, then as the cover is installed and the teeth engage, the arm should turn in. With the cover fully installed, the alignment marks on the cover and clutch arm should be in line WHEN any backlash in the mechanism is taken up BY LIGHT FINGER PRESSURE."

what does DIAGONAL mean ? it means the arm is not to be pointed directly to the rear of bike, but to the rear of bike AND outward towards you. if it were possible to measure the angle it would be 45 degrees (not 90). arm is not to be pointed at you or the rear tire, but in between you and rear tire. and outward towards you (not the bike).

in service manual

 

[Sharksawyer]

so the dot is suppose to line up with the arrow once the cover is pulled tight when you turn the lever towards the cable?

Yes, the engagement point is where the dot and arrow line up.

Mark