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R1 xTc
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244 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I finaly got my Bridgstone Bt-010's fitted to the bike about 3 weeks ago. With a 190 at the rear, as the Bt-010 190 section tyre is narrower than the OEM D207 190 section.

These tyres offer so much grip it ant funny. But it did take a while to come to a final setup, here it is.

Front:
====

- Raise the forks 7mm through the clamps.
- Preload: 5 1/2 lines showing.
- Compression: 5 clicks out from all the way in.
- Rebound: 4 clicks out from all the way in.
- Tyre PSI: 34psi

Rear:
====

- Preload: possition 8 out 9 (9 is max).
- Compression: 4 clicks out from all the way in.
- Rebound: 5 clicks out from all the way in.
- Tyre PSI: 38psi


This is the final setup for me. (2001 R1) I still dont have a damper, but am going to get one. These settings whith the Bt-010's have transformed the bike so much, that Im now able to ride round corners on the back wheel with absolute confidince. Oh and I wiegh about 98 - 103 kg suited.

She flys now............:thumbup

this old thread has heaps of good info:
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=652
 

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R1 xTc
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244 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Hey when riding two up what settings do you guys use?

Heres what Im using:

Front:
====

- Raise the forks 7mm through the clamps.
- Preload: 5 1/2 lines showing.
- Compression: 5 clicks out from all the way in.
- Rebound: 4 clicks out from all the way in.
- Tyre PSI: 36psi

Rear:
====

- Preload: possition 9 out 9 (9 is max).
- Compression: 1 clicks out from all the way in.
- Rebound: 7 clicks out from all the way in.
- Tyre PSI: 40psi

Total wieght of about 190kg. Verry smooth for the pillion. Didnt handle to bad.


:thumbup
 

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R1 xTc
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244 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
How to set up your R1's suspension:

1. First of all you will need two mates, a tape messure, some masking tape or gaff tape, a cable tie, pen and papper (p.s. Dont forget the bear and pizza)

2. When ready find a nice level, flat area to work in, like a shead or something.

3. Then get the cable tie and place it round one of the inner fork tubes (The crome tube). Slide it up to the outer fork tube (Gold one).

4. Place a small strip of tape on the swing arm as close to the axle as possible. Then another strip directly above on the duck tail of the bike. Under the rear R1 sticker some where.

4.2 Raise the fork tubes to 7mm above the top clamp. Messured from the face of the top clamp too the top of the fork tube. (Silver cap on the gold tube).

5. Lets set the static sag for the rear.

- Stand the bike upright, get your mates to hold it in possition, lift the rear so the shock is fully extended out and messure the distance between the two strips of tape (inside edge to inside edge). Write down that messurement.

- Then with all of your riding gear on sit on the bike with feet on pegs, as if riding the bike. With one mate holding the bike upright and the ohter to re-messure the same distance between the strips of tape. Write the messurement down.

- Next bounce up and down while on the bike a few times, in the upright possition. This is to help compensate for stucktion in the shock.

- Re-messure the disstance between the strips of tape again in riding possition. Write the messurement down. Bounce again and messure again.

- You should now have 4 messurements for the rear. The last three need to be added together and then divide it by three to get the true riders Sag messurement.

- Rear static sag should be set to 5mm - 10mm. To get this figure get the first messurment and subtrackt the true riders sag we have just calculated. The result of this calculation is the current static sag. If it is more than 10mm then increase the rear preload to lessen the sag, where possition 9 is the hardest. If less than 5mm decrease the preload to increase the amount of sag.

- After an adjustment is made re-messure the riders sag three times with bounces in between and work out the new true riders sag. Then calculate the static sag again, repeat untill a static sag of 5mm - 10mm is achived. (If this is not possible to achive the incorrect springs have been sold to you. Remember rider wieght is riding gear also. People that like soft rears will go for around 30mm of static sag, but I dont recomend this on the R1.)

6. Eat pizza and drink some bear.

7. Now set the static sag at the front. Its basicly the same as what has been done at the rear. The Static sag for the front should be 30mm - 35mm.

- First stand the bike upright with a friend at either handle bar. Push the cable tie up against the fork seal. Get your mates to raise the front off the ground and messure from the fork seal to the inside edge of the cable tie. write it down.

- Now as with the rear end, sit on the bike in riding gear and bounce a few times before possing in ring possition, with your mates holding the bike upright. Push the tie up against the seal again. Now get of the bike and lift the front off the ground again re-messure the distance from the fork seal to the inside edge of the cable tie. Write this down. Push the tie up against the seal again and repeat the proccess another two times.

- Work out the true riders sag as on the rear shock, then take the first messurment and take away the true riders sag to get the static sag of the front forks.

- If required adjust the preload to achive 30mm - 35mm of static sag. Remember at the front the less preload the more the sag and the more preload the less sag.

- After each adjustment re-messure the static sag untill achived.

- Drink some more bear. Well done the static sag is now set, front and rear.

8. Compression: At the rear set it to 3 clicks out from all the way in. At the front 5 clicks out from all the way in. Go for a ride and adjust to tast. Remember the rear is to stop rear end squat under throttal and the front to help stop front end dive.

9. Rebound: At the rear start at 5 clicks out from all the way in. At the front 4 clicks from all the way in. The rebound is how quikly the suspension will recover from going over a bump. The more you wind it in the slower the recovery, but the more stable mid corner when hanging of the bike. The more clicks out from all the way in, the bike recovers alot quicker, but bouncy hanging of th bike. You need to find a happy medium.

10. Tyre pressure: Front at 34psi - 36psi and the rear at 38psi - 40psi.

Hope this all makes sence to you. Have fun, you bike is about to transform itself into a beast........



Note: Compression and rebound settings for 2000 - 2001 R1.
 

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Do or do not, there is no try
Joined
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2,671 Posts
Glad they work for ya, BTW I love BT-010's for the street. Oh yeah, go with a 180 next, it works even better than the 190. And tons better than the DuntLops
 

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R1 xTc
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244 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Droog,

I think Ill try the Bt-012 at the front next, for even more grip.

But hey dont these suckers work well in the wet to. I mean the best rain tyre I have ever come accross for the road.

Mind you I do try to avoid riding in the rain.:D

:thumbup
 

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13 Posts
What you describe i thought was the loaded sag, i.e with the rider loading her up, static sag is just the bikes weight, according the the website i used to set mine up.

I have been messing around with my suspension for some time, i have a '99 model but i assume my forks and shock are the same as the '01, only the trail and rake are different.

Does your fork preload do anything?

Mine has very little affect on the loaded sag, i get around 35mm from standard preload setting to wound all the way in.
I also notice the tiewrap telling me that the forks are still bottoming out with the preload wound all the way in.:(
Is it just mine are faulty or are all R1 forks the same.?

I also have mine set on the harder side of soft, i will try your rebound and compression settings and see how feel.

Has anyone owned a '99 and a '02 model, if so what are the differences in handling. I have read in various bike mags that the '02 now handles better than any other litre bike, where as the '99, '00, '01 all have problems holding a tight line.
I know my '99 and the '00 are very similar with standard setup, but not riden an '01 or '02 yet.

Also has anyone fitted ohlins shocks to a '99 R1, and what difference did it make?
 

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R1 xTc
Joined
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244 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Pip,

The main diff. in the forks, not sure about the rear shock spring, is that the 98-99 models have linier springs and the 00-01 models have progressive springs.

Racers put linier springs back into the later models.

Also all R1's are under sprung, unless you wiegh 65-75 kg suited up. Though I think there was an inprovment with the 02 models.

A must have is springs to suit your wieght ( suited with full riding gear on).

A thicker oil, like superspeedemon said, will help slow the suspension travel down. Giving the impression of a more controled ride. The oil becuase it is thiker travels through the holes in the valves (which sit in your forks) is slower, therefore slowing the compressing and rebounding affects of the forks.

Try springs first and if needed try some thiker oil later. Its best to understand the affect of one change at a time.

Hey Pip dont forget if your preload is wound all the way in you need to raise the forks through the clamps some more. As adjusting the preload changes the ride height, affecting the geometry of the bike. Try 10mm and go from there.

:thumbup
 

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13 Posts
Thanks for the info Dave.

I am 11 stone.....154lbs.......69.84kg, depending on where i am in the world:lol

So i should be bang on for the springs i have, it just baffled me why the loaded sag would not change with the preload adjustment.

The settings i finally used are very similar to yours :-

'99 R1 with standard suspension.

Pop the forks up 5mm from standard.

Front :

Rebound ............ 4 clicks out
Compression ...... 6 clicks out
Preload .............. 5th ring flush
34 psi

Rear :

Rebound ............. 5 clicks out
Compression ....... 2 clicks out
Preload ................ step 7 of 9
34 psi

Ohlins steering damper set 6 clicks out from max.

These settings give a good compromise between super plush with slow steering and super hard pogo stick ride with sharp handling.
Handles well, holds a nice line with minimum accellaration squat.

Here is the site i got the settings from :-


http://www.2wf.com/articles/how_to/673D0947-3FD0-417D-9671-8AD39F35A8E9.asp
 

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aka `GoBabyGo`
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1,139 Posts
R1_Dave

Hi,

Just a word of caution.... get a damper, soon. If you raise the R1 forks in the triple clamps you make her even more susceptible to slappers!

Been there got the T-shirt (240km/h slapper).:bash

Cheers.
 

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285 Posts
Hey guys, today I had my forks dropped again this time to 7mm,up from 5mm and holy shit, what a difference this has made and the bike even feels more stable. I'll also be getting a Toby damper next week so that will help as well, as the last slapper was not pleasant! R1 Dave, you are a fucking legend, thanks for your advice as the bike handles like it should now.:rock :rock :rock :thumbup
 

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285 Posts
I went in to my local bike shop and put the bike on a race stand, then with a chain block and tackle attached it with rope around the front fairing bracket, this is just for safety and to stabilise it. Loosen all allen bolts and lower the front (slowly!) to let the fork legs slide up through the triple clamps and measure, then tighten up all bolts. I followed R1 Dave's measurements which is the total protruding through the top clamps. This is what we did at the shop as the blokes are pretty fussy with their work ethics. I hope everything works out for you.:thumbup
 

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STORK MODE = stealthy torque
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584 Posts
turn all the way in clockwise, then turn counter clockwise the "X" number of clicks.

when all the way in, you could say it is the "firmest" generally speaking.

:D

be careful, don't over-tighten when going all the way clockwize, or you'll damage the little point on the end of the valve thingie.

or something.

heheh

...
spikey
 

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R1 xTc
Joined
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244 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
One last change, so much for final settings.:D

The change for me was the rear end,

Preload: 9 out of 9
Compression: 3 clicks out

everything else is the same, now these are my final settings.

Remember tyre pressure is verry importaint no more than 36 in the front and 40 in the rear max, with my settings.

:thumbup
 

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97 Posts
R1 outta this world !!!

Hi Dave,
Just wanna say that if you think your R1 flys now, the day you throw away that crap stock shock and get a Penske or an Ohlins, you'll think you have left the SOLAR SYSTEM!!!
Cheers
 

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R1 xTc
Joined
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244 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
El Duca,

Your so right. But still doing things around the new house, so the budget for the bike is zero bucks the last time I looked.

Have plans for a Wilbers billit machined racing shock with all the goodies. A good 6 months away still.

One thing is for sure. With standard equipment it is possible to get the R1 hookin.

The way the R1 was set up out of the box was a joke. But with a bit of playing with the suspenders it is possible to put things right.

:thumbup


Norco,

All right smart ass, one other little thing. I went to 6 clicks out on the compression at the front. Also wound in the spring preload just a tad. Found this better mannered.

What did you change the fork hieght to this time ?

Its dam hard trying to find that complete setting. :thumbup

Dave to El Duca, light speed please.........................
 
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