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Center of gravity is constantly changing with the rider on average being 1/3 of the total weight. Having it lower is not the same as in cars with the weight shifting to the outer tires. For example the old 96 GSXR 750 bubble butts liked being tall. So for most road riding, raising the rear is better than raising the forks. It's just that raising the forks takes less labor.
 

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lol. what a mess of information/mis-information.:hammer:
yes 'offset' is a term used to describe OFFSET!:lol

anyway, dan hit the nail on the head. it's a compromise between stability and perceived quicker turn in etc.
you need to experiment with it and ALL the other parts of your suspension/geometry!:fact

there is no ONE magic figure like the david jeffries 31mm.
i do use 31 mm for offset on mine, BUT mine is different in the rear too.
the short answer is to ride and try.
the long answer is too involved for me to type.
Hello mate, after a week or two riding with the 29mm offset and the forks dropped 10mm through the yolks, i'm not quite as keen on it as i first was

I'm getting a guy i know to make me some 31mm offsets as i'd like to try them
Is there any chance you could share some more info about your setup or is it a secret:)

Although the bike now corners quicker and carries more speed, something feels not quite right

I dont feel at home with it fully banked over and on constant radius turns it turns in on its self a bit

Any tips/help would be great
 

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lol. what a mess of information/mis-information.:hammer:
yes 'offset' is a term used to describe OFFSET!:lol

anyway, dan hit the nail on the head. it's a compromise between stability and perceived quicker turn in etc.
you need to experiment with it and ALL the other parts of your suspension/geometry!:fact

there is no ONE magic figure like the david jeffries 31mm.
i do use 31 mm for offset on mine, BUT mine is different in the rear too.
the short answer is to ride and try.
the long answer is too involved for me to type.


below is a description of fork/triple-clamp offset for those wondering.

Ive sent my spare offsets to a CNC shop today and they are going to make me a 30/31/32mm offset

Is there any chance you could share some of you setup info with the 31mm offset that you are using

Here's a picture of what im getting made





Cheers Gordon
 

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Hello mate, after a week or two riding with the 29mm offset and the forks dropped 10mm through the yolks, i'm not quite as keen on it as i first was



I dont feel at home with it fully banked over and on constant radius turns it turns in on its self a bit

Any tips/help would be great
If the bike keeps wanting to fall into the turn, than you may want to raise the forks back up. Dropping 1cm on the front is HUGE... Usually you want to do this about 3mm at a time.
 

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If the bike keeps wanting to fall into the turn, than you may want to raise the forks back up. Dropping 1cm on the front is HUGE... Usually you want to do this about 3mm at a time.
I like my bikes to fall in a bends, I worked my way up to 10mm to get it to fall in the same as when I had the 35mm offset

When I got the yolks the guy I got them from said that he bought them for a 98 model, that being said they should have been adjustable from 31mm to 39mm

But it turned out they were not bought for this model but the 02 model, so the adjustability is from 21mm to 29mm

I want to go back to as near possible to what i had and then just tame it a little
I'm looking forward to my new offsets arriving so I can do this

Ive always wanted to try the 31mm DJ tt winning setup and any advice I can get is welcome :)
 

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lol. what a mess of information/mis-information.:hammer:
yes 'offset' is a term used to describe OFFSET!:lol

anyway, dan hit the nail on the head. it's a compromise between stability and perceived quicker turn in etc.
you need to experiment with it and ALL the other parts of your suspension/geometry!:fact

there is no ONE magic figure like the david jeffries 31mm.
i do use 31 mm for offset on mine, BUT mine is different in the rear too.
the short answer is to ride and try.
the long answer is too involved for me to type.


below is a description of fork/triple-clamp offset for those wondering.
Will you not share some of your setup info ??? :bow
 

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Will you not share some of your setup info ??? :bow
i did in the quote.
there is no 'magic' setup.:fact
having an adjustable 'everything' is the key.....along with trial and error.
my over-racing dogbone adjustable link to alter ride height is nice and if you ever find one, BUY IT. (no longer made).
 

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ok, im asking this question for my brother he has a 2007 R1. when setting preload, is IN stiffer (clockwise) on this model? also i know we don't want to max the preload because you would be better of with a spring change but how close to max can we go to get our 30mm of sag without upsetting the forks? thanks
 

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i did in the quote.
there is no 'magic' setup.:fact
having an adjustable 'everything' is the key.....along with trial and error.

my over-racing dogbone adjustable link to alter ride height is nice and if you ever find one, BUY IT. (no longer made).
For anyone reading this thread and hoping to find out what the magic setup is, please see the above bold text. Blu has just summarized everything I've ever learned about suspension in a few words.

ok, im asking this question for my brother he has a 2007 R1. when setting preload, is IN stiffer (clockwise) on this model? also i know we don't want to max the preload because you would be better of with a spring change but how close to max can we go to get our 30mm of sag without upsetting the forks? thanks
If setting it to the max gets you the numbers you are looking for, why not? If it isn't close, then you want to look at spring replacement.

And yes, clockwise is stiffer.
 

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For anyone reading this thread and hoping to find out what the magic setup is, please see the above bold text. Blu has just summarized everything I've ever learned about suspension in a few words.
It's not a magic setup i'm looking for, I merely thought that seeing that blur's bike is a similar age to mine with few differences that he might be kind enough to share his setup figures

I know you are running 31mm offset

Have you got the forks raised through the yolks?
How much have you jacked up the rear or lowered it?

I was hoping to get as many opinions from as many people as I could

Soon I will have a new pile of offsets to play with :)
 

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It's not a magic setup i'm looking for, I merely thought that seeing that blur's bike is a similar age to mine with few differences that he might be kind enough to share his setup figures

I know you are running 31mm offset

Have you got the forks raised through the yolks?
How much have you jacked up the rear or lowered it?

I was hoping to get as many opinions from as many people as I could

Soon I will have a new pile of offsets to play with :)
well , not that it will help 'you', but i use dunlop slicks on my setup (i don't really care about the street setup) the forks (ohlins and modified heavily inside) are set to where ohlins recommend them for height: 4 lines showing(not raised or lowered).
31mm offset.
preload 7.5 turns out.
static sag 30mm.
rebound 13 clicks out.
comp 11 clicks out.
rider sag 42mm.

rear shock (again ohlins and modified internally)
shock length 295mm.
rebound 10.
comp 11.
rider sag 30mm.

additional notes in my book say:
dogbone length(again fully adjustable)
165mm with tall dunlop slicks.

this is all meaningless to you though as it is my phillip island setup that is horrible on the street.
note: (again):sleepy: the 'BEST' thing you can do is learn HOW suspension works (all the info you'll ever need is on this site (with links even):fact and do it yourself.
don't 'copy' anyone else, as for example, my bike has custom fork internals, custom rear shock setup, custom triple clamps, adjustable rear link etc etc. and my wheels, tyres used, track i ride at, lap times, bike weight, MY rider style weight etc etc ALL come into play:fact
hell i've got more than 2 pages of scribbled notes of stuff i've tried over the last 10 years with this bike and its setup.

bottom line is get adjustability and LEARN HOW-TO determine what works for YOU.:fact
told you it'd take too long to type.
now don't ask anyone again and go LEARN how to do this yourself.
i know it's time consuming, but it's the only way you'll learn it and learn not to 'copy' anyone else.
plus it's rewarding along the way.:thumbup
 

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well , not that it will help 'you', but i use dunlop slicks on my setup (i don't really care about the street setup) the forks (ohlins and modified heavily inside) are set to where ohlins recommend them for height: 4 lines showing(not raised or lowered).
31mm offset.
preload 7.5 turns out.
static sag 30mm.
rebound 13 clicks out.
comp 11 clicks out.
rider sag 42mm.

rear shock (again ohlins and modified internally)
shock length 295mm.
rebound 10.
comp 11.
rider sag 30mm.

additional notes in my book say:
dogbone length(again fully adjustable)
165mm with tall dunlop slicks.

this is all meaningless to you though as it is my phillip island setup that is horrible on the street.
note: (again):sleepy: the 'BEST' thing you can do is learn HOW suspension works (all the info you'll ever need is on this site (with links even):fact and do it yourself.
don't 'copy' anyone else, as for example, my bike has custom fork internals, custom rear shock setup, custom triple clamps, adjustable rear link etc etc. and my wheels, tyres used, track i ride at, lap times, bike weight, MY rider style weight etc etc ALL come into play:fact
hell i've got more than 2 pages of scribbled notes of stuff i've tried over the last 10 years with this bike and its setup.

bottom line is get adjustability and LEARN HOW-TO determine what works for YOU.:fact
told you it'd take too long to type.
now don't ask anyone again and go LEARN how to do this yourself.
i know it's time consuming, but it's the only way you'll learn it and learn not to 'copy' anyone else.
plus it's rewarding along the way.:thumbup

Due to running my own business I dont have much spare time.
All I really wanted was a little help to save me some time

Is there a uncomplicated answer to.......

How much have you jacked the back up?

I'm more than happy with my suspension setup, it's just the geomtry i'm struggling with

Please bear in mind that Ive spent the last nine years on the 35mm offset and never thought there was much wrong with it
All I did do was raise the forks 4mm to quicken the steering
 

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Following someone elses' settings is a recipe for disaster. I can see the logic of trying to use TT settings as it is a road course, big bloke, same bike, similar mods, etc etc...

This will lead you down a road from where you may or may not be better off, most likely the latter. I say this as your current settings are for the most part working except for the midcorner's desire to keep falling. This can be remedied by making the bike longer via increasing rake angle and/or raising the forks both will increase your trail.

If you tried with a blank sheet of different settings, in this case DJ's, you're going to start all over again. You'll have to readjust turn-in, mid-corner, exit after all that is said and done. You may find yourself back to where you were "comfortable" with.

Can you tell me your current trail, offset and rake. Also what if any was done to your rear shock? If you post pictures of your tire, Dan could suggest much simpler suggestions to make your bike handle better for YOU. :fact
 

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Following someone elses' settings is a recipe for disaster. I can see the logic of trying to use TT settings as it is a road course, big bloke, same bike, similar mods, etc etc...

This will lead you down a road from where you may or may not be better off, most likely the latter. I say this as your current settings are for the most part working except for the midcorner's desire to keep falling. This can be remedied by making the bike longer via increasing rake angle and/or raising the forks both will increase your trail.

If you tried with a blank sheet of different settings, in this case DJ's, you're going to start all over again. You'll have to readjust turn-in, mid-corner, exit after all that is said and done. You may find yourself back to where you were "comfortable" with.

Can you tell me your current trail, offset and rake. Also what if any was done to your rear shock? If you post pictures of your tire, Dan could suggest much simpler suggestions to make your bike handle better for YOU. :fact
Hello mate, at the moment Ive got the 29mm offset on the bike
I tried this with the forks flush and it felt terrible, I then tried 5mm then 12mm and then went back to 10mm

It now turns in in a way that I have been used to for years with my old front end ( 35mm offset )

I'm currently having a 30/31/32mm offset for my RME yolks
When I bought the yolks, the guy I got them from said they were the ones for the 98 model. RME do yolks for the 98/01 or the 02/03

I thought they would be adjustable from 31mm to 39mm ( 4mm each way )
I was then going to first try them on the 35mm offset that I'm used to and see what the difference in stiffness was, due to them being monsters

Then I was going to make a small change away from 35 to 34 and see how it went wilst making notes

My aim was just to take away the high speed weaving that my bike has developed since fitting the kit geni

Ive taken a lot of the gyro effect off my bike with the wheels,cmc disks and then the geni

My rear shock is a Ohlins and it has been resprung and valved by Maxtons for fast road, The rear spring is a 590 lb

The back of my bike is quite hard but it's the one part of the bike that I never think about, it's perfect, I love it

The front I have issue with though, It is good, corner speed is up, stability is up
But if I bank the bike right over to a knee down situation...... It dont feel right

There is an exception to this though that I noticed last night, if you are traveling at silly speed down a road with rapid direction changes, it's great, f**king quick

It's the long sweepers that are the problem

I dont expect you guys to give me a list of setup numbers that will solve my problems, but some ideas would nice

Sorry if this is long winded but i'm not good with all the fancy numbers, Ive always gone by feel :)
 

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tire rolling direction is bottom to top?

Where's Dan? Think you're couple clicks off both rebound and compression on the rear. I'd add compression by a click or 2 and soften rebound a click or 2.
 

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tire rolling direction is bottom to top?

Where's Dan? Think you're couple clicks off both rebound and compression on the rear. I'd add compression by a click or 2 and soften rebound a click or 2.
Good call on the rebound. And the compression, although I'd actually soften it a click or two and let the chassis move.
 

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Good call on the rebound. And the compression, although I'd actually soften it a click or two and let the chassis move.

Mentioned compression to help with his weaving on the long sweepers. :dunno

Sometimes when we think the front is the problem, it turns out the back was either too rigid or too soft. Flash when you're on these long sweepers, I'm assuming you're on the gas pretty hard?

Wayne Rainey used to compromise the bike's handling on the slow tight stuff so that on the long sweepers he could slide the rear with abandon...

Best way to improve it is make the adjustments at the location where this is happening. Heat up the suspension then take some runs through those areas and make adjustments one click at a time. Also note tires used and tire pressures.
 

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Mentioned compression to help with his weaving on the long sweepers. :dunno

Sometimes when we think the front is the problem, it turns out the back was either too rigid or too soft. Flash when you're on these long sweepers, I'm assuming you're on the gas pretty hard?

Wayne Rainey used to compromise the bike's handling on the slow tight stuff so that on the long sweepers he could slide the rear with abandon...

Best way to improve it is make the adjustments at the location where this is happening. Heat up the suspension then take some runs through those areas and make adjustments one click at a time. Also note tires used and tire pressures.
Could be, but he'd previously mentioned that the back end was hard. That's where I came up with softening it.

Good diagnosis on the weave though. If he still has it after a rebound adjustment I'd definitely look into low speed compression. (and if any adjustment is made, double check the rebound :lol)
 

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I think we're confusing him even more... :lol

Sorry Flash...
 
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