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Mentioned compression to help with his weaving on the long sweepers. :dunno

Sometimes when we think the front is the problem, it turns out the back was either too rigid or too soft. Flash when you're on these long sweepers, I'm assuming you're on the gas pretty hard?

Wayne Rainey used to compromise the bike's handling on the slow tight stuff so that on the long sweepers he could slide the rear with abandon...

Best way to improve it is make the adjustments at the location where this is happening. Heat up the suspension then take some runs through those areas and make adjustments one click at a time. Also note tires used and tire pressures.
Hi guys, sorry I havn't replied sooner, been working a lot

You are right, on long sweepers I'm going as fast as the bike allows

Anyway thanks for all the replies, I'm going to wait a couple of weeks until all my new offsets are made then move the offset closer to what I'm used to

I dont want to make loads of adjustments to my dampning before the geomtry feels right again :)

I'll let you know what happens when I get the new parts
 

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Hi guys
Got my new offsets, a CNC guy I know measured the offsets I had and then made these



After having a play, I'm amazed at how much difference a mm makes when adjusting things
I'm currently using the 31mm offsets


 

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Hi guys
Got my new offsets, a CNC guy I know measured the offsets I had and then made these



After having a play, I'm amazed at how much difference a mm makes when adjusting things
I'm currently using the 31mm offsets


i hate to say this but i think you have them in wrong?
 

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i hate to say this but i think you have them in wrong?
Hello mate, when I first got these yolks, I thought the same
You can fit the offsets either way round to give you different offsets
If I turn the 6 around it will become 19mm
I found this out when I first got the yolks because I fitted the 4mm offset round the wrong way and the forks hit the frame when you turned the steering

Here's a pic of the 0 setting :)



At the moment I'm running 31mm offset and have the forks raised by 6mm
Bike is very nimble and quite close to being unstable, but not too close if you know what I mean
You might have already said but how much have you raised the rear end by with that nice adjustable link you have?

I might get one made :)
 

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I eat my chicken stripes
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Got a question. It looks like you got your offset on the upper tripple covered. How about the lower triple? What goes there.
 

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Got a question. It looks like you got your offset on the upper tripple covered. How about the lower triple? What goes there.

Top pictuure is the top yolk and bottom picture is the bottom yolk

Not sure I understand the question :dundun:

On the top yolk those little bolt holes are for my steering damper
Here's a picture

 

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I eat my chicken stripes
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Looks very nice, looks awesome.

Did u make it steeper or the opposite.

Also, by tunning the offset, you dont have to raise/dipp the forks or the rear suspension any longer right?
 

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Hello mate, when I first got these yolks, I thought the same
You can fit the offsets either way round to give you different offsets
If I turn the 6 around it will become 19mm
I found this out when I first got the yolks because I fitted the 4mm offset round the wrong way and the forks hit the frame when you turned the steering

Here's a pic of the 0 setting :)



At the moment I'm running 31mm offset and have the forks raised by 6mm
Bike is very nimble and quite close to being unstable, but not too close if you know what I mean
You might have already said but how much have you raised the rear end by with that nice adjustable link you have?

I might get one made :)
the link is 6 mm shorter at the moment which raises the back 15mm.
 

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What is the offset when using the 0 spacer?
25mm

When I bought the yolks, the guy I got them from told me they were for the 98/01
But when they arrived, turned out they were for the 02

They came with a 0,2 and a 4 offset
Ive had made a 5,6 and 7mm offset
I might get made a 1 and a 3 just so Ive got the whole set :)
 

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How to set up your R1's suspension:

1. First of all you will need two mates, a tape messure, some masking tape or gaff tape, a cable tie, pen and papper (p.s. Dont forget the bear and pizza)

2. When ready find a nice level, flat area to work in, like a shead or something.

3. Then get the cable tie and place it round one of the inner fork tubes (The crome tube). Slide it up to the outer fork tube (Gold one).

4. Place a small strip of tape on the swing arm as close to the axle as possible. Then another strip directly above on the duck tail of the bike. Under the rear R1 sticker some where.

4.2 Raise the fork tubes to 7mm above the top clamp. Messured from the face of the top clamp too the top of the fork tube. (Silver cap on the gold tube).

5. Lets set the static sag for the rear.

- Stand the bike upright, get your mates to hold it in possition, lift the rear so the shock is fully extended out and messure the distance between the two strips of tape (inside edge to inside edge). Write down that messurement.

- Then with all of your riding gear on sit on the bike with feet on pegs, as if riding the bike. With one mate holding the bike upright and the ohter to re-messure the same distance between the strips of tape. Write the messurement down.

- Next bounce up and down while on the bike a few times, in the upright possition. This is to help compensate for stucktion in the shock.

- Re-messure the disstance between the strips of tape again in riding possition. Write the messurement down. Bounce again and messure again.

- You should now have 4 messurements for the rear. The last three need to be added together and then divide it by three to get the true riders Sag messurement.

- Rear static sag should be set to 5mm - 10mm. To get this figure get the first messurment and subtrackt the true riders sag we have just calculated. The result of this calculation is the current static sag. If it is more than 10mm then increase the rear preload to lessen the sag, where possition 9 is the hardest. If less than 5mm decrease the preload to increase the amount of sag.

- After an adjustment is made re-messure the riders sag three times with bounces in between and work out the new true riders sag. Then calculate the static sag again, repeat untill a static sag of 5mm - 10mm is achived. (If this is not possible to achive the incorrect springs have been sold to you. Remember rider wieght is riding gear also. People that like soft rears will go for around 30mm of static sag, but I dont recomend this on the R1.)

6. Eat pizza and drink some bear.

7. Now set the static sag at the front. Its basicly the same as what has been done at the rear. The Static sag for the front should be 30mm - 35mm.

- First stand the bike upright with a friend at either handle bar. Push the cable tie up against the fork seal. Get your mates to raise the front off the ground and messure from the fork seal to the inside edge of the cable tie. write it down.

- Now as with the rear end, sit on the bike in riding gear and bounce a few times before possing in ring possition, with your mates holding the bike upright. Push the tie up against the seal again. Now get of the bike and lift the front off the ground again re-messure the distance from the fork seal to the inside edge of the cable tie. Write this down. Push the tie up against the seal again and repeat the proccess another two times.

- Work out the true riders sag as on the rear shock, then take the first messurment and take away the true riders sag to get the static sag of the front forks.

- If required adjust the preload to achive 30mm - 35mm of static sag. Remember at the front the less preload the more the sag and the more preload the less sag.

- After each adjustment re-messure the static sag untill achived.

- Drink some more bear. Well done the static sag is now set, front and rear.

8. Compression: At the rear set it to 3 clicks out from all the way in. At the front 5 clicks out from all the way in. Go for a ride and adjust to tast. Remember the rear is to stop rear end squat under throttal and the front to help stop front end dive.

9. Rebound: At the rear start at 5 clicks out from all the way in. At the front 4 clicks from all the way in. The rebound is how quikly the suspension will recover from going over a bump. The more you wind it in the slower the recovery, but the more stable mid corner when hanging of the bike. The more clicks out from all the way in, the bike recovers alot quicker, but bouncy hanging of th bike. You need to find a happy medium.

10. Tyre pressure: Front at 34psi - 36psi and the rear at 38psi - 40psi.

Hope this all makes sence to you. Have fun, you bike is about to transform itself into a beast........



Note: Compression and rebound settings for 2000 - 2001 R1.
Haha a "bear" and a pizza :hammer: hmmm could be interesting, jokes :lhumper:
 

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Suggestions please for base setup...

65kg rider in gear.
1999 4XV R1 with factory suzzies....
fast road riding mainly.
Michelin 'Power One' tyres 'street compound'
 

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D.N.F.
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Top pictuure is the top yolk and bottom picture is the bottom yolk

Not sure I understand the question :dundun:
Just sayin' .................. a learning moment. Great project though!


YOKE
.....a clamp or similar piece that embraces two parts to hold or unite them in position



YOLK
....the yellow spheroidal mass of stored food that forms the inner portion of the egg of a bird or reptile and is surrounded by the white
 

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My R1 ate my Ducati
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base set up help... 2002 r1 I'm 225 lbs in gear and 6 foot tall.. I dont ride ultra aggressive. bike is @
front 5 lines showing 10 out on both rebound and comp
rear 5th mark 10 out on comp and rebound
feels like it rebounds a lil fast in bumps but seems to ride ok just cruising thru town. feels a lil squishy in hard corners

thanks guys
 

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Dave & company..also myself, I played a lot with OEM suspension..(clicks +,-..never happy) but then I decided to spend €750 for Wilbers Type 643 shock and €445 for Matris Fork Valving Kit (all made for my weight/riding style) ...this completely changed my bike -really worth every cent!!!!

http://www.carpimoto.com/EN/Bike_Yamaha_R1-04-06/Specific/Suspensions-Wheels/Fork-Kits/33487_FY101RK-Matris-Fork-Valving-Kit-for-Yamaha-R1-04-06.htm

http://www.wilbers.de/en/wilbers_federbein.php

Sorry for my English.
 

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ARMY's Finest!
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base set up help... 2002 r1 I'm 225 lbs in gear and 6 foot tall.. I dont ride ultra aggressive. bike is @
front 5 lines showing 10 out on both rebound and comp
rear 5th mark 10 out on comp and rebound
feels like it rebounds a lil fast in bumps but seems to ride ok just cruising thru town. feels a lil squishy in hard corners

thanks guys
I'd like to 2nd this comment, I really need someone to help me out with setting up my suspension... I dont exactly know what im doing in that department! Lol

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 
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