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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2005 R1. I was riding it the other day and it felt fine, pulled hard and sounded mean. Then I shut it off for 5 min and when I got back on the road, 1st gear felt like the clutch was slipping and so did every other gear. Then my bike started to overheat got to about 260 (cruising at 80 on the freeway in 70 degree weather) before I cut the ignition and rolled off. After letting it idle after cooling down me and my buddies noticed coolant running from the top of the valve cover onto the headers and burning off. Not sure why its happening but I towed my bike home the next day, refilled with coolant up to the top and before the hike even got past 130 degrees I started to see that coolant leaking again and smoke coming from under the gas tabk. Bike also started to rev on its own up to 3k rpms. I shut it off and havent turned it over since then. I can also say the valves sound like they are making a bit more noise than usual but none of my pipes are more blue than the other so I dont think I have a burnt valve.
I havent taken the bike fully apart yet but Id like to have an idea of what to check for. Anything helps, thank you. I have a video of it running like I described but I think its too big to post here
 

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Sounds like a bust at the radiator core? Since there is no coolant that comes out of the cam cover, radi has to heat up, then shoots at the top of the tank or frame, drops down on the cam cover, moves onto the exhaust kind of go look see.

That means, warm up the bike, watch it spray out the back of the radiator, shut it down, repair core split... is one variable.

Is the oil golden clear or chocolate milk in color? Then it's most likely a head gasket blown. Oil level has to rise above normal level is another clue liquid [coolant] has entered the crankcase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like a bust at the radiator core? Since there is no coolant that comes out of the cam cover, radi has to heat up, then shoots at the top of the tank or frame, drops down on the cam cover, moves onto the exhaust kind of go look see.

That means, warm up the bike, watch it spray out the back of the radiator, shut it down, repair core split... is one variable.

Is the oil golden clear or chocolate milk in color? Then it's most likely a head gasket blown. Oil level has to rise above normal level is another clue liquid [coolant] has entered the crankcase.
The liquid coming out is greenish blue and I use the red motul 7100 for oil. The oil still looks red and its a lil bit dirty but 500+ miles old tho. Ill definitely get a better look at the radiator soon. Thanks for the response, happy new year!
 

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Cool. So no water in the oil, no need to check comp for now knowing no contamination present. Come on numbers, I'm walking your response to a question that says no comp needed, hello? And like knowing which cylinder, as if it matters coming down anyway?

I'd question the diagnosing of numbers if I were following a thread... I got my eye on you, guru LOL

Better if you borrow a coolant pressure tester. Then that would spray as soon as you pumped pressure at it.
 

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Cool. So no water in the oil, no need to check comp for now knowing no contamination present. Come on numbers, I'm walking your response to a question that says no comp needed, hello? And like knowing which cylinder, as if it matters coming down anyway?

I'd question the diagnosing of numbers if I were following a thread... I got my eye on you, guru LOL

Better if you borrow a coolant pressure tester. Then that would spray as soon as you pumped pressure at it.
Pm'd
 

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Pull the gas tank off and your fairings. Pressure test the cooling system and start looking for the leak. Your thermostat housing is under your tank, and behind your throttle bodies. There are a couple hoses and pipes that run from that, kind of over and to the side of the valve cover. So its very possible that you have a leak coming from that general area. There is also a main hose/pipe that comes from the water pump and connects to your cylinders, on the front side of the engine. May need to check that seal as well, though its a little lower then what your describing, but its rather close to the header pipes.
 
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Might be as simple as a failed radiator cap belching out coolant. Has to hold min of 14.7 psi and then blow off. With the adaptor for that little guy, she won't hold with one push at the pump handle = Replace. I'd start there.
 

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Pressure test the cooling system, did you check under the tank for coolant? That's a pretty high leak though I don't suspect that's coming from under the tank
 

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i will be the third to say fill the cooling system to the top and pressure test it, that should find your leak. as stated on the 04-06 there are a few hoses that run to the throttle bodies but not usually over top of the valve cover. it could be a pin hole in the rad as stated but the top rear is not a common place for that to happen. you can usually pickup a cheap pressure test kit from harbour freight or amazon
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Appreciate the replies, Ill be taking the bike apart today to find the problem. As for testing the coolant system how would u suggest I pressurize it without turning the bike over? I already took the tank off and looked for any signs of a leak, didnt really notice anything odd. Im sure once I take the air box off I will find more. Heres the pictures I took under the gas tank. I will get more pictures today.
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Appreciate the replies, Ill be taking the bike apart today to find the problem. As for testing the coolant system how would u suggest I pressurize it without turning the bike over? I already took the tank off and looked for any signs of a leak, didnt really notice anything odd. Im sure once I take the air box off I will find more. Heres the pictures I took under the gas tank. I will get more pictures today. View attachment 1022397 View attachment 1022398
You use a coolant pressure testing kit to do it. I do see some corrosion in your pictures from different areas around the thermostat housing. That's normally a sign of a leak. Here is a link to a kit to give you an idea https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Cool...ocphy=9008375&hvtargid=pla-568805575133&psc=1
 
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Anew, figure it's over a hundred just to rack the bike at the dealer. For 70 bucks, this is more a one time deal tool, but down the road might help with the car, other vehicles. Say a rental is 20/30 bucks. I'd again, throw that money into a 'tool buildup' if you will. The attempt to work on your own bike is that tool building once you start messing with vehicles.

Bike looks like a sitter. That kind of dry coolant is expanding out to the outside as it sits a lot. I'm at the point of removing that kind of crap out of the 20yr plus sitter I am working on now.

The deal is to dip those parts in vinegar and some hydrogen peroxide added to the mix. Say you buy the peroxide and it's sealed. Stick a toothpick in the seal, then squeeze the bottle into the vinegar mix and maybe one squeeze is that kind of ratio to say 3 cups of vinny to a half squeeze, 6 cups to a full squeeze. That's a close enough ratio mix.

Notice the black line due to expansion on the lower pipe housing and to the right is that crack. So look for cracks at the housings, dip to clean.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay so I took the bike a bit more apart, pressurized the radiator system to about 5psi and saw the leak again. Looks like its coming from the radiator, Im going to take off the tank when my friend gets here
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Okay so I took the bike a bit more apart, pressurized the radiator system to about 5psi and saw the leak again. Looks like its coming from the radiator, Im going to take off the tank when my friend gets here View attachment 1022430 View attachment 1022431 View attachment 1022432
Well not a hard fix, if that's the only leak. Looks like a new replacement is backordered. Says available when I look it up, but 60+ days. Part number should be
RADIATOR
5VY-12461-00-00
 

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Might have to check around, I'm finding some options on amazon and e-bay
 

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Home he here at home would buy the right solder/flux, practice first, then make the attempt. This is nothing for a radiator shop. Might cost less than a used one on the net for the repair. But if you have the will to build the skill... everything is repaired in-house, sans machine work.

Want it done right, do it yourself is that motto so true.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Might have to check around, I'm finding some options on amazon and e-bay
Yup Im looking on ebay, might also call my mechanic tomorrow and see if theres a 3rd party one he recommends. He knows his stuff, has tons of certifications.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Home he here at home would buy the right solder/flux, practice first, then make the attempt. This is nothing for a radiator shop. Might cost less than a used one on the net for the repair. But if you have the will to build the skill... everything is repaired in-house, sans machine work.

Want it done right, do it yourself is that motto so true.
Id be interested if anyone in GA does radiator repair. Ill do some research.
 
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