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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
While I have the bike torn down, I recognize this bike could have some potential issues down the road. Should I try and refurbish all the existing coolant piping or even replace them? And also I still remember hearing the valves when the bike was warming up, should I check the clearances on those while Im at it too? Take off the valve cover?
 

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While I have the bike torn down, I recognize this bike could have some potential issues down the road. Should I try and refurbish all the existing coolant piping or even replace them? And also I still remember hearing the valves when the bike was warming up, should I check the clearances on those while Im at it too? Take off the valve cover?
As old as the bike is, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace all the hoses that you can. They do start to brake down with age and time. I know my 05 is probably due for it as well, since I'm still on OEM. But its only got 12k miles on it, and I really don't take that one out as much. If your over 20k miles and it hasn't had the valves at least checked, then yeah wouldn't be a bad idea to look into getting that done. Its kind of a headache to do though, and you'll need a shim kit for it if you plan to try and tackle it yourself. But the short of it is, remove valve cover > rotate engine to place everything were it needs to be for each valve > measure > if out of spec do the math for correct shim > replace and repeat. You will need new cam cap bolts as well for when its all done.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
As old as the bike is, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace all the hoses that you can. They do start to brake down with age and time. I know my 05 is probably due for it as well, since I'm still on OEM. But its only got 12k miles on it, and I really don't take that one out as much. If your over 20k miles and it hasn't had the valves at least checked, then yeah wouldn't be a bad idea to look into getting that done. Its kind of a headache to do though, and you'll need a shim kit for it if you plan to try and tackle it yourself. But the short of it is, remove valve cover > rotate engine to place everything were it needs to be for each valve > measure > if out of spec do the math for correct shim > replace and repeat. You will need new cam cap bolts as well for when its all done.
How would you reccomend replacing the coolant hoses?

Also I just want to confirm that it is in fact a leak in my radiator at the bottom edge the fan towards the stator side. You can clearly see a jet stream of coolant shooting out onto the valve cover and dripping down.

Ill do the ladder and see wether I still have issues with valve knock or loss of power. Adjusting the valves is a tricky process and the guy said the valves were done earlier last year
 

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How would you reccomend replacing the coolant hoses?

Also I just want to confirm that it is in fact a leak in my radiator at the bottom edge the fan towards the stator side. You can clearly see a jet stream of coolant shooting out onto the valve cover and dripping down.

Ill do the ladder and see wether I still have issues with valve knock or loss of power. Adjusting the valves is a tricky process and the guy said the valves were done earlier last year
If you pressure tested it and that's where you see it coming out from, then that should be your leak. Not trying to worry you or anything, but when doing this your always going to find the first path of least resistance. So you could still have some other leaks as well. Happens all the time, I work on cars for a living and deal with this a lot. Actually had one a few weeks ago that I had to replace more things cause the first leak was not the only. As far as replacing the hoses, just order new ones and replace.

Here is a parts diagram for 2005 R1 Coolant hoses, should be able to use this to order some of it. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2005/yzf-r1-yzfr1t/radiator-hose
 

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And you can order from that website
 

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I'll add this, for the stuff you can't find. You can check aftermarket, or you can even just get some standard coolant hoses from auto stores and kind of piece it together if you feel that you have the know how to do so.
 

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AJ's cycle Salvage. They're close to me so I pick everything up, saved me a bunch of times. They're located right outside the Philadelphia International airport. I suggest calling them with part # and they will call or text you back with availability and price. I hate waiting over 30 days for something to be processed then another 30 or so days for FedEx to lose the package, personally I would rather drive/ride 5 hours just to pick it up. I have had issues with my hoses and seals/o-rings on my 5VY cooling system unfortunately and have done everything myself with little prior mechanical knowledge, the service manual has been one of my most useful tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Just took my radiator to a shop to repair and clean for 85. I think that should solve my issue! Ill also bathe the coolant pipes to clean them aswell. Once I get everything refurbished and get my new fairings from Auctmart I will report how she rides
 

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Just took my radiator to a shop to repair and clean for 85. I think that should solve my issue! Ill also bathe the coolant pipes to clean them aswell. Once I get everything refurbished and get my new fairings from Auctmart I will report how she rides
Sounds good, keep us updated if you need more help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Okay so I fixed the radiator and turned the bike over after sitting for a week or so. Started right up however once it started to get warmer the idle kept going up and held to about 3-4k rpms. I can still free rev the bike but it slowly comes back down to about 3-4k rpms. Its not my idle screw as I have not messed with it (plus Im pretty sure the bike would immediately rev up when cold statrting, which it did not) what I think it could be is either a bad autochoke or TPS sensor. I would like to add my motor was making a bit of clicking sound at idle but when revving at 6k u dont hear it, only when the bike is idling. I touched the top of the valve cover and side of the motor, did not feel any bad vibrations, specifically on the stroke of the clicking sound. At least I got my new fairings and the bike looks good!
 

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"I would like to add my motor was making a bit of clicking sound at idle but when revving at 6k u dont hear it,"

Click at idle sounds like tight valves. Revs and comes down is throttle body sync.
1. Check compression twice. One is that the bike has the plugs out and now check compression.
2. Say one cylinder is way off. Now you pop the valve cover off and set the valves.
3. Now where is the compression? Because if you sync a low comp cylinder, you more open the throttle blade to compensate for the others. Then that one more open blade hangs up the rpm from coming down, if not compression bringing the idle down as well.
 

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I don't know what all you had off the bike during all this but if the throttle bodies were off it could be the choke plunger in the middle of the throttle bodies isn't sitting right or it could be ait in the lines for the plunger. It could also be an air leak something not sitting right or a hose left off. You can spray around them with carb clean to search for a leak while it's running.
 

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Okay so I fixed the radiator and turned the bike over after sitting for a week or so. Started right up however once it started to get warmer the idle kept going up and held to about 3-4k rpms. I can still free rev the bike but it slowly comes back down to about 3-4k rpms. Its not my idle screw as I have not messed with it (plus Im pretty sure the bike would immediately rev up when cold statrting, which it did not) what I think it could be is either a bad autochoke or TPS sensor. I would like to add my motor was making a bit of clicking sound at idle but when revving at 6k u dont hear it, only when the bike is idling. I touched the top of the valve cover and side of the motor, did not feel any bad vibrations, specifically on the stroke of the clicking sound. At least I got my new fairings and the bike looks good!
Not sure with this one, Not knowing all that you did when you took it all apart. I would say start with checking all the vacuum lines, make sure everything is connected right and not pinched or broken. Have you tried adjusting the idle adjuster? Just to see if it changes anything, maybe it got moved when you had things apart. The clicking noise will be a bit hard to diag on here. But these engine do have a bit of tick to them, so is it something new? Or possibly something that your just now noticing more as you try to track down problems?
 
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Okay so I plan on doing a compression test as soon as I get my mechanic friend to let me borrow his kit. I tried starting the bike again today and took it very lightly around the neighborhood to see how it felt. It it 50 degrees today and the bike never stopped idling around 2-3k and the bike was starting to overheat quickly. I turned it off at 200F which only took about 2 minutes to get there. I took the radiator cap to see if I had coolant and it it was moving. When I started the bike I didnt see any flow but Im not sure if u should be able to see that from there. When I was pepping it around the neighborhood I had the air filter out to listen to how the bike sounded when under load. Sounded fine but when I was coasting i gear I could hear a small tapping noise that I dont recall hearing before when I got the bike. Now I know the valves were done last year so I wouldnt think they are out of alignment but after the overheating I could see them moving. Other than that I plan on testing the coils to make sure they are in spec but other than that Im not sure what the issue is. Thanks for all the comments already, Im hoping I can figure thjs out and sell the bike while it still runs lol
 

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I'm kind of at a loss right now with this. How long have you had this bike? Did you do anything or change anything with the bike before these problems started? With the high idol it can be a few different things. TPS could be going bad, throttle bodies out of sync, idol adjustment out, vacuum leaks. Need to know a little bit more about the history of the bike to see what might be going on. If its still over heating after getting the leak all fixed, might be something with the water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I'm kind of at a loss right now with this. How long have you had this bike? Did you do anything or change anything with the bike before these problems started? With the high idol it can be a few different things. TPS could be going bad, throttle bodies out of sync, idol adjustment out, vacuum leaks. Need to know a little bit more about the history of the bike to see what might be going on. If its still over heating after getting the leak all fixed, might be something with the water pump.
When I got the bike it ran like crap. Had to replace the battery, the spark plugs, the fuel pump and filter, coolant overflow tank, I cleaned the fuel injectors, replaced the coolant after serval flushes with engine ice, two oil changes (one with Yamahalube to clean it out and currently has motul 7100 and k&n filter), got a new yk chain, and also replaced a whole arsonal of bolts/screws. And after only 1000 miles this is where I am lol. I am over it
 

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When I got the bike it ran like crap. Had to replace the battery, the spark plugs, the fuel pump and filter, coolant overflow tank, I cleaned the fuel injectors, replaced the coolant after serval flushes with engine ice, two oil changes (one with Yamahalube to clean it out and currently has motul 7100 and k&n filter), got a new yk chain, and also replaced a whole arsonal of bolts/screws. And after only 1000 miles this is where I am lol. I am over it
Oh ok, so it had problems long before this. And you've been trying to get it right since you bought it. There is probably a lot of little problems with it, and I don't even know where to start with it. But does sound like you might have a water pump issue. How many miles are on the bike total? I know its an old bike and things just start to creep up on them. I still have my 2005 R1, so I kind of know the parts of dealing with older bikes. But mine only has like 12k miles on the clock, so my little problems are more of age things. Other then having to rebuild the engine cause of a bad bearing. But things like that happen when its a track bike that you kind of abuse to your limits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Oh ok, so it had problems long before this. And you've been trying to get it right since you bought it. There is probably a lot of little problems with it, and I don't even know where to start with it. But does sound like you might have a water pump issue. How many miles are on the bike total? I know its an old bike and things just start to creep up on them. I still have my 2005 R1, so I kind of know the parts of dealing with older bikes. But mine only has like 12k miles on the clock, so my little problems are more of age things. Other then having to rebuild the engine cause of a bad bearing. But things like that happen when its a track bike that you kind of abuse to your limits.
Any idea how bad it is to fix the water pump? From what I saw its inside the motor so could need an engine out service which I would have to pay for unfortunately.
 

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Any idea how bad it is to fix the water pump? From what I saw its inside the motor so could need an engine out service which I would have to pay for unfortunately.
It's actually not as hard as you would think. Basically just remove the exhaust, and drop the oil pan. Then its right there to get too. Just have to un hook all the pipes from the outside and then unbolt it from the bottom of the engine. Its not fun to do, and kind of annoying, but really not terrible. The water pump/oil pump unit is about $200 new. Or if your confident with it, you can take it apart and just replace the parts that need replacing. It's sometimes just easier to get a whole new unit.

And you know, I just thought about this. As you said the engine got louder with more ticking/tapping sounds. Well if the water pump isn't working, then your oil pump probably isn't doing much good either causing a lack of lubrication, which could be the cause of your noise. They are both the same unit and work off the same gear and shaft.

You will also need all the gaskets and seals and o-rings. So like the oil pan gasket, the o-rings for the weep hole tube, then all the pipes that go into the pump.
 
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