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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Two ways to clean that engine; tear it apart and clean it all out. The other way is to remove every last part and wash it in solvent. And that includes disassembling the oil pump.
Just cleaned out everything but the clutch. Some Dawn and scrubbing did the job. I took a closer look at the water pump, the star rotary looking thing does not move at all. Its stuck in place so Im just gonna get a whole new pump.
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Just cleaned out everything but the clutch. Some Dawn and scrubbing did the job. I took a closer look at the water pump, the star rotary looking thing does not move at all. Its stuck in place so Im just gonna get a whole new pump.
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@Svennie Was talking about cleaning all the trash out of the motor that is in the transmission and the bottom end of the motor I think. Hopefully the strainer and the oil filter caught most of it, but only god knows if any of it is running around near the big end bearings or the bearings in the transmission or around the crank journals.

From here, that looks nasty as hell bro.

Oh, and did you epoxy a hole in the oil pan?
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
@Svennie Was talking about cleaning all the trash out of the motor that is in the transmission and the bottom end of the motor I think. Hopefully the strainer and the oil filter caught most of it, but only god knows if any of it is running around near the big end bearings or the bearings in the transmission or around the crank journals.

From here, that looks nasty as hell bro.

Oh, and did you epoxy a hole in the oil pan?
Not me, came like that lol. Im pretty sure the oil strainer did its job. I dont wanna crack the motor any more open tbh lol
 

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Okay the day has come. I finally took apart the bottom end of the motor. The verdict: water pump side of the assembley was completely seized. Caused by metal bits that came from the exploding clutch. Lots of metal bits and chunks in my oil pan, thankfully I dont think anything major happened up top. My gears might be fine too, but I really think the motor will be fine after I relplace the water pump and every seal known to man lol. This is gonna cost alot to me but its better than taking it to a shop.

I also took off the stator motor as one of my bolts for the cover was loose and I saw metal bits around that area I cleaned up. Not sure if itll cause a future issue but I plan on replacing any gear/bearing/sleeve that looks to be chipped or rashed up. Thankfully the oil itself looked clean when I drained it, not sparkly and nice and red still (motul 7100). Ill use new oil anyways. Also when I drained the coolant it was clean other than some of the fluid that came out the pipe that goes from below the headers and into the oil cooler. Its was a bit dirty but that was the only muck I saw.
Ill let you guys knows once I get the bike back together and see if theres any issues. Im hoping as soon as everything back together the bike will run like new.
Photos for reference:
And yes my oil pan has JB weld lol View attachment 1022807
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That does look pretty rough. Clean out as much of is as you can to get that stuff out. Some brake clean might help a little to just spray up in there and let it all dry out a bit. On the plus side though, when you replace the water pump, you get a new clean oil pump with it. Something else you can do, as I know your already deep into this with money, but you can get an extra oil filter and some cheaper "throw away" oil and use that for the first fill up and just let it run for a bit once its all clean out and back together. Then drain and do your good oil. That will help get some more of it out of the system. Most of that stuff doesn't look small enough to have gotten past the filter or the strainer so you might be safe on that side. But that is a lot of material inside that engine.
 
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Here at "I told you so engine builds' the last thing with that kind of debris is think the pump survived all this time with the debris still passing the screen.

I'd more fill the engine with gasoline right up to the filler neck of the oil, if not remove the valve cover and pour the gas right up to the top of the cover. Find some rough road and walk it so the slosh sends whatever debris off the parts, down into the oil pan.

You can pay me now or pay much more later is some sound advice and learn how to rebuild an engine as if in the operating room of a hospital and clean, like every last part as if came out of a package all clean and new looking.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)
 

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Here at "I told you so engine builds' the last thing with that kind of debris is think the pump survived all this time with the debris still passing the screen.

I'd more fill the engine with gasoline right up to the filler neck of the oil, if not remove the valve cover and pour the gas right up to the top of the cover. Find some rough road and walk it so the slosh sends whatever debris off the parts, down into the oil pan.

You can pay me now or pay much more later is some sound advice and learn how to rebuild an engine as if in the operating room of a hospital and clean, like every last part as if came out of a package all clean and new looking.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)
At the bare minimum. At the absolute bare minimum.

This.
 

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Serious as can be. Gas is a detergent. You refuse to tear it down, this is a 50/50 mix the bike survives the up and coming riding season. Drain, drop the pan, see what comes out? Douche it one more time if there looks like a lot.
 

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The problem going this route is it will cause some bearing damage on startup and you need to be sure to change the oil after startup to get any solvent that is still in there out. It's the least intensive and invasive route to go to get all the trash out of the motor though.
 

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only trick i've heard for cars is some ATF. Don't know about the gas thing. If you go any of these routes, one trick too is when you go to start the bike after adding oil to it, is to pull the coils from the spark plugs and let it try to start a few times really good. That will let oil move through the system without getting the bike to start fully.
 
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ATF is too oily. I would not even have the battery in the bike. Start the bike with the electric motor and BOOM!

The best part about this is, 'it ain't my bike' so I'd be in my surgical grub, dissect every part out of there, where the gas did not clean, but more hid it in some cavity you'd have to flip upside down to get it all out.

I'm no pro, but hand built is for sure a clean machine without question. And all the paper off the mating surfaces, or that rise will act as a leak wherever you see black paper left on the cover(s).
 

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ATF is too oily. I would not even have the battery in the bike. Start the bike with the electric motor and BOOM!

The best part about this is, 'it ain't my bike' so I'd be in my surgical grub, dissect every part out of there, where the gas did not clean, but more hid it in some cavity you'd have to flip upside down to get it all out.

I'm no pro, but hand built is for sure a clean machine without question. And all the paper off the mating surfaces, or that rise will act as a leak wherever you see black paper left on the cover(s).
I am a pro as I hold a YamaPro certification. DO NOT flush your motor with gasoline. Your taking a chance by assuming you got everything out. Is that a risk your willing to take at triple digit speeds. Sure would be a thought in the back of my mind.……
 

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Just the oil pump alone is a teardown to see how damaged the blades are. Stand it front of it, not my fault, but you sort of tell these squids the right thing to do, won't listen, then there is an alternative with a fuse to it.
 

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Just the oil pump alone is a teardown to see how damaged the blades are. Stand it front of it, not my fault, but you sort of tell these squids the right thing to do, won't listen, then there is an alternative with a fuse to it.
They can can kick me out of here for starting a argument I could care less. It’s way past time some called you out Svennie for giving repair advice that could get some killled. You have a basic knowledge of motorcycle systems I’ll give you that but your backyard hack job fixing tips are sometimes completely wrong and in this case extremely dangerous. You sir also have a air of arrogance in your comments that leads me to believe you have maybe only been in the presence of any year R1. When you intend to help someone as fellow rider you do not call them a squid and I told you so. Long time coming that you were taken down a few notches. Some of your advice is good but mixed in with your know it all attitude and shit talk to someone just looking for help you sir have made a fool of yourself.
 

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Doubt this is an argument at all. Right out of the gate I said to tear it all down. The OP refuses to follow the right approach so I want you to tell me if someone deals with a volatile substance, they are not aware what gasoline can do? I've been cleaning parts with gas my whole life and nothing close to blowing myself up with one of the best cleaners for engine work.

Wait a minute, didn't you just say my advice could kill someone? You are assuming what might not even happen. Besides, I said if you stand in front of being called a squid, maybe that might be a wakeup call to do it right.

What is this long time coming? How can I answer a question and all of a sudden I'm arrogant? First thing out of the gate is check compression before you spend a dime is shit talk and an attitude? You sure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
I am a pro as I hold a YamaPro certification. DO NOT flush your motor with gasoline. Your taking a chance by assuming you got everything out. Is that a risk your willing to take at triple digit speeds. Sure would be a thought in the back of my mind.……
I dont know the proper way to do it, but Im gathering it would be a good idea to at least try to flush the motor of anymore contamination. My idea was using brake cleaner and a tooth brush. But Im not sure how that will wipe off magnetic flakes off the metal guts.
Theres one question I still need answered. What are the black plastic pieces I saw in the bottom of the oil pan? And it appears to be with green and yellow bits too. Something electrical maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
I dont know the proper way to do it, but Im gathering it would be a good idea to at least try to flush the motor of anymore contamination. My idea was using brake cleaner and a tooth brush. But Im not sure how that will wipe off magnetic flakes off the metal guts.
Theres one question I still need answered. What are the black plastic pieces I saw in the bottom of the oil pan? And it appears to be with green and yellow bits too. Something electrical maybe?
Just watched an entire motor rebuild I didnt see anything in the motor that looks similar to those bits and pieces. A mystery for sure.
 
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