Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So life got really busy and I have been out of my home state for 7 months, I left my 18 R1 in a temperature controlled indoor storage unit with a half tank of gas for those months.

I haven’t had a chance to start it and did not use a fuel additive, should I drain the fuel and fill her up with new fuel or just top her up with more fuel.

Worth noting is I had the 600 mile maintenance done shortly before parking so I don’t feel oil needs changing, any opinions on what I should do and things to look out for would be greatly appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
So life got really busy and I have been out of my home state for 7 months, I left my 18 R1 in a temperature controlled indoor storage unit with a half tank of gas for those months.

I haven’t had a chance to start it and did not use a fuel additive, should I drain the fuel and fill her up with new fuel or just top her up with more fuel.

Worth noting is I had the 600 mile maintenance done shortly before parking so I don’t feel oil needs changing, any opinions on what I should do and things to look out for would be greatly appreciated.
Hi R1R1, I think the oil will be fine as for the gas it should be fine too. If you are ever going to do it again, put in in fuel stabiliser in it. I wish I had done that with my Aprilia. Which has been standing for a year and a half. In future that is what I will do, especially for both bikes which are essentially track bikes. The R1 build got in the way of the the Aprilia build. Put the fuel stabiliser in run it for a few seconds and it will keep the fuel in good condition, also get in the injectors. You should be fine.
When I bought the R1 it had not been run in 8 months. Fill the tank up with the stabiliser and run it, the full tank will stop condensation inside the tank too if you decide to leave it for that length of time.
Like I said mine a 2015 had not been run for 8 moths and it was fine.

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hi R1R1, I think the oil will be fine as for the gas it should be fine too. If you are ever going to do it again, put in in fuel stabiliser in it. I wish I had done that with my Aprilia. Which has been standing for a year and a half. In future that is what I will do, especially for both bikes which are essentially track bikes. The R1 build got in the way of the the Aprilia build. Put the fuel stabiliser in run it for a few seconds and it will keep the fuel in good condition, also get in the injectors. You should be fine.
When I bought the R1 it had not been run in 8 months. Fill the tank up with the stabiliser and run it, the full tank will stop condensation inside the tank too if you decide to leave it for that length of time.
Like I said mine a 2015 had not been run for 8 moths and it was fine.

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
Appreciate the quick reply man, I’m going to to get on it ASAP and this won’t be happening again, going to start storing at home for the winters instead of a unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Appreciate the quick reply man, I’m going to to get on it ASAP and this won’t be happening again, going to start storing at home for the winters instead of a unit.
You are welcome . Just remember to run it up before storing it, also full tank as well.
I done a favor for someone and as you know, no favor goes unpunished . But it was an older model R1 2004 and the tank had gone totally rusty and the fuel was almost like jelly.
It had been stored for four years.
Fuel stabilizer with a probably saved it with a full tank. The tea bag filter was destroyed plus the fuel pump. In fact I shall get some for the Aprilia hopefully it will start and it will be OK till I can get on with it, after I get the 2015 track ready for April.

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
 

·
Booya
Joined
·
34,516 Posts
Charge the battery and I'll bet she starts right up. You'll know soon enough if the fuel has turned at all as the bike won't run as smooth. Easy way to check something is to shine a light in the tank and see if the fuel has a varnish coloring to it. At seven months, it shouldn't, but if it makes you feel better, it doesn't take much to look at it. Either way, start it up and let it get warm. Fill the tank with fresh fuel and put a half can of seafoam in with it. Go riding.

If you use ethanol, it wouldn't hurt to shine a light on the inside walls of the tank to look for rust.

In the end, seven months isn't really a thing - bikes in the midwest are left all winter on the same tank. Most put stabilizer in, but I know many that don't.
 

·
If speed kills quit taking it
Joined
·
1,640 Posts
I regularly store my '02 for about a year at a time and the following always works a treat:

Fueled RIGHT up and with stabilizer added
Run it for 10 minutes to get the fuel and stabilizer mixed and through the injection system
Tyres overinflated and off the ground
Battery out and on a trickle charger
Fresh oil

Once the battery's back in and the fuel pump is primed it doesn't take more than a few seconds to fire up.
And it's always a great feeling when I hear that roar!
 

·
kickin' at the darkness
Joined
·
10,210 Posts
its an aluminum gas tank. nothing to worry about
 

·
2006 R1 LE #283
Joined
·
31 Posts
7 months is no problem. Mine has been sitting for maybe 2 years and fired right up. when I started having charging issues I just parked it and rode my R6 instead. I finally got back into it and the stator is toast. All the magnets came off.

Lawn mowers are another story. They are hypersensitive to the ethanol-added fuels.
 

·
kickin' at the darkness
Joined
·
10,210 Posts
here's a fun fact. you can always drain the current gas, refill n' start her up..

if its been parked a really long time, i recommend lucas oil injector cleaner.

that stuff works fvcking great, i've had my engine apart n' cylinders / pistons were
a piece of cake to get cleaned even with over 55k kms on the odo. It has seen
Ethanol fuel garbage from riding in WA state & Oregon. There were no major
carbon deposits to be found at all. So for those nay-sayers, including my old
man: psst. you're wrong! :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
I’ve never had an issue with fuel going off when I’ve overwintered my R1, or indeed during summer when my winter bike is stored, but I haven’t left them for 7 months, I run them every 4 -6 weeks on the stands to get them warm, I don’t know if that helps, but it keeps my mind at ease.

As peeps say fill her to the brim and put her on trickle charge and on paddock stands


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
“Rhinestone Cowboy” MF Doom
Joined
·
11,238 Posts
I’ve never had an issue with fuel going off when I’ve overwintered my R1, or indeed during summer when my winter bike is stored, but I haven’t left them for 7 months, I run them every 4 -6 weeks on the stands to get them warm, I don’t know if that helps, but it keeps my mind at ease.

As peeps say fill her to the brim and put her on trickle charge and on paddock stands


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I’ve always heard and read that running a bike every so often on the stands is not good. Something about building moisture and moisture is not good at all in the long run.

Here’s an article that explains the above statement: Should You Start or Idle a Motorcycle During Cold Winter?
 

·
kickin' at the darkness
Joined
·
10,210 Posts
I’ve always heard and read that running a bike every so often on the stands is not good. Something about building moisture and moisture is not good at all in the long run.

holly fack, dude we do think alike.. good man.

i keep my shit quiet.. i live in a bloody igloo up in BC west coast :D

its too cold and Vancouver is just too damn wet over winter for me to take a chance. i know how
condensation n' mass temp swings can do with WATER.. getting all that shit into my engine just
to have piece of mind, is no piece of mind. We basically live in a rain -forest. Most new houses have a de-humidifier installed from the get-go.. otherwise the ambient temperature in my living room in October can be 75%. Thats not good.

The point is, if you crank the bike while its in storage, you're gonna wait so its up to temp.
But then you turn it off and walk away, every damn bit of moisture in the air gets sucked in
and it settles nicely, in your cylinders and just about everywhere else.. LOL

you're aware my engine has been apart for some time, there's absolutely no corrosion in
my engine at all, it has not seized, i crank it by hand every once in a while and keep the
garage temps up over winter.

yeh, water sucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
I’ve always heard and read that running a bike every so often on the stands is not good. Something about building moisture and moisture is not good at all in the long run.

Here’s an article that explains the above statement: Should You Start or Idle a Motorcycle During Cold Winter?
Thanks Darkhorse and Bacchus 40 I never knew that .... What damage have I been doing to my bike?

I do only run her on warming winter days here in North west England, when temperatures are well above freezing.... 6 to 8 degrees ..would the same apply?

Thanks for the heads up guys


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
kickin' at the darkness
Joined
·
10,210 Posts
Thanks Darkhorse and Bacchus 40 I never knew that .... What damage have I been doing to my bike?
water, inside a combustion engine = bad

:D
 

·
04
Joined
·
257 Posts
gas engine not designed for storing for long periods

motorcycles get the most hot when idling so when they get hot all water and condensation will burn off (good), but if engine then cools in very cold temps condensation can form (that's what destroys exhaust muffler).

buy fogging oil and fog the shit out engine. how to fog an engine: warm up engine to operating temp: down stream of airfilter spray fog oil into carb or air intakes; spray it until engine dies. if you do this you don't need to run engine in winter as all engine parts that can rust will keep a coating of oil (especially cylinder walls).

why you should not fog engine ? if a computer sensor is located in intake manifold the fogging oil could coat it. and it give computer wrong value, and

it better to periodically run engine because this puts oil back on camshaft and clutch system. fogging only gets oil to cylinder walls and valves and exhaust headers .

do not store bike on side stand because oil drains from clutch system and plates can stick (halfway thru winter pull clutch lever in several times)

why more fuel is needed in winter:

Gasoline is less likely to vaporize when it is cold. Even if it is adequately vaporized, some fuel condenses on the cold parts of the engine before it can be burned. The engine requires extra fuel for starting so that, in spite of vaporization and condensation problems, the engine still receives a combustible air-fuel mixture.
 

·
kickin' at the darkness
Joined
·
10,210 Posts
yep, my cylinders are fogged.

i see i cant edit the post above anymore.. i meant we see "ambient relative humidity"
hit high in the range most of the year, specially over winter where its between 60 and
75% RH. Us bikers up here are known to have spot heaters where we store our
bikes while in storage. it helps. We use 'fuel stabil' in our tanks and run the engines
before putting in storage. Thats when fuel tanks are metal though, the new R1 has
an aluminum tank so it wouldn't matter. But it does get run through the injectors,
combustion system, etc.

The house dehumidifier only services 'living space' though so of course
the garage is at risk still. I follow the same 'storage' procedure with my RSX-S
(but in summer) as that thing is a true garage queen. I dont need it for commuting
so its a winter use only vehicle.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top