i like them aluminum because if you powder coat them they will get all sratched up and look nasty( like above ). Besides its goes with the rear sets & levers
Machined Spools for Redline...What do U Think???
Hell guys. I've been looking into carrying spools on our site because customers continually ask if we sell the spools when we sell them a spool stand. After looking into selling other business' spools, I determined that the best route to go was machining my own spools to sell. I'm posting a few pictures of the ones I plan to sell on our site for $19.99 a pair (mounted on my R1) and also a picture of the spools that were on it. I didn't really like the conventional spool that was on it because they look rather nappy once well scratched up and because the manufacturer made the slot too wide, it allows the bike to swing from side to side slightly, which I do not like. These spools I also plan to send with stainless hardware and thread lock already on the threads. Once again my other spools were not stainless and I got tired of looking at the rust. So I'm essentially posting this thread to ask what you guys think. Do you think they will sell well with the spool stands I offer? As usual they would be warrantied for life as all of our products are. Keep in mind that no dimensions are set at this point. I may choose to make them slightly thinner or what not. A big thanks in advance for all the feedback.
Ian Gilmore
Redline Engineering
www.redlinestands.com
[email protected]
901-351-4764
Ian Gilmore
Redline Engineering
www.redlinestands.com
[email protected]
901-351-4764
21 - 40 of 47 Posts
Fair enough, then how do you make them black. Anodize them, haven't seen black anodizing, does it exist? Any other ideas. And in reference to Moto's comment, I thought about that and its a good idea. They are about 1.25 inches long at the moment, you think thats long enough to effectively save a swingarm? I'll be glad to make a few sets of different length spools (when I get a lathe) and send them to someone who can then install them and push his bike over and see if they work. j/k
Ian
Ian
I would definitely buy a set but I would also like to see the Spools in Black to match the Black Swingarm of the 04 R1.
I measured the Yamaha stock spools on my bike and there were 1 inch & the bolt & spool were 1 piece. Maybe 1.5 or 1.75 inches would good.
R1formetoo said:Fair enough, then how do you make them black. Anodize them, haven't seen black anodizing, does it exist? Any other ideas. And in reference to Moto's comment, I thought about that and its a good idea. They are about 1.25 inches long at the moment, you think thats long enough to effectively save a swingarm? I'll be glad to make a few sets of different length spools (when I get a lathe) and send them to someone who can then install them and push his bike over and see if they work. j/k
Ian
You get can damn near any color you want with anodizing. It's fairly cheap to do in large batches, too.R1formetoo said:Fair enough, then how do you make them black. Anodize them, haven't seen black anodizing, does it exist? Any other ideas. And in reference to Moto's comment, I thought about that and its a good idea. They are about 1.25 inches long at the moment, you think thats long enough to effectively save a swingarm? I'll be glad to make a few sets of different length spools (when I get a lathe) and send them to someone who can then install them and push his bike over and see if they work. j/k
Ian
Locally, I can get a basket full of things in any color I want for $50. Doesn;t matter if I want 3 things done or 300 - as long as it fits in the dipping basket - then it's $50. I'm guessing about 100 spools would fit in there.
The length should fine at 1.25". Mine are about the samer and they've saved a few guys' swingarms. A few arcer friends of mine think that 1.25" is too long as they grind and lift the rear wheel. They also like plastic over aluminum as it'll grind away without lifting. But this is only a problem for 0.005% o fthe people out there.
I've made a million spools over the years, let me know if I can help you out with any questions - or lathe set up, etc.
What kind of lathe did you get? Manual or CNC? What kind fo DRO's?
Good looking parts! Good luck with them!
Eric
I think that it would make allot of sense for you.I bet 1/2 the people would buy them that buy your stands.One shop shopping ya know.
I like them. Are they going to be available immediately? I ask cause Im on your site as we speak ready to order the stand set. I need at least 2 sets of spools though as my friend and I are both going to use the stands.
HideOut
HideOut
They look very nice; however I am not sure that it would be much fun to machine a whole bunch of them, unless of course you used a CNC lathe. Also you don’t need to spend 5g on a lathe, you could buy a “watchmaker’s” lathe, they are about 2ft long and very inexpensive, they are also nice to use
You only need a $350-800 lathe to make those small spools.R1formetoo said:dpenoyer and moto, come on guys, I really need some feedback here. I don't want to spend $5000 on a lathe if I'm not going to sell any of them.
Ian
You COULD make them with a $200 lathe- it all depends on the accuracy, speed and quantity you wish to produce.zee said:You only need a $350-800 lathe to make those small spools.
An $500 lathe is gonna take you a lot more time to make a spool than on a more expensive model with DRO's, etc.
Manual lathes suck for production runs - and that's all you're going to get for under $2,000. Plus it'll be a Chinese made P.O.S. to boot.
On the other hand, if you're making prototypes and "one off" special parts, the cheaper lathes can do a pretty decent job. But they won't last nearly as long and the make making repitive parts a pain in the ass.
But, that's just my opinion and I could be wrong :beer
Eric
Earache, I haven't bought a lathe yet and when/if I buy one, I will be sure to get one that will be big enough to do whatever job I might ever want to do. I also never buy cheap equipment to use on a daily basis which pretty much rules out anything under a cost of $2000. Also Earache, what was the most effective method you found in cutting the pieces (saw or lathe)? And what are DRO's? Hideout, go ahead and get yourself a set and pick some spools up from www.tobefast.com because at the earliest, it would be a few weeks down the road, and thats pushin it. Thanks everyone.
Ian Gilmore
Redline
Ian Gilmore
Redline
Ian - Depends on what the lathe can do, but the best way with the least amount of waste is to just mount a cut off tool in your tool holder. Cut off tools looks like a solid piece of high speed tool steel with an angle on the end. Index it straight into the work piece and it'll cut it off.Earache, what was the most effective method you found in cutting the pieces (saw or lathe)? And what are DRO's?
If you use a saw, you'll have to put the piece back into the lathe and face it to get the rough edges off and then turn it down to the correct length - and if you're making a lot of pieces, this will add quite a bit of time to the operation.
If the lathe has the power to cut off aluminum in the diamtere you're making, cut off tools are the way to go.
DRO's = Digital Read Out. Instead of reading the dial on your lathe,a DRO system gives you a nice, more accirate read out. This can also pseed thgings up quite a bit as you won't have to contiunually measure your work piece with a micrometer - which makes you stop the lathe to do. DRO's are so much easier to read and will speed things up quite a bit.
They ain't cheap though - a two axis system for lathes will run another $1200 to $2000 depnding on which brand you get. Might see if your lathe manufacturer has a model with thgem already installed . Tends to be cheaper that way.
Another way to speed things up is the material itself. Might look into using 2011 aluminum instead of 6061 for this application.. 2011 machines a hell of a lot easier and faster with less wear on tools. It costs a bit more, but the time it saves is worth it. Physical properties aren't all that much different. But it doesn't polish as well - in case you're going to offer polish spools.
Eric
Sounds great, I used a cutoff tool to make the last ones and it did pretty good. I'll check into the different types of aluminum they sell because I never thought about ease of machining. Thanks.
Ian
Ian
Ian,
As far as making them do double duty as swingarm savers, instead of just making them wider, could you possibly add a bolt-on plastic nylon attachment/extension which could be replaced if/when a fall occurs. This would save them from damage, & I don't think anyone makes them this way. Typically, its either all aluminum, or all nylon. A hybrid design would provide optimal double duty functionality as swingram protector & stand spool. Make it larger in diameter & then drill & thread it centrally to accept a plastic nylon extension.
What do you think?
As far as making them do double duty as swingarm savers, instead of just making them wider, could you possibly add a bolt-on plastic nylon attachment/extension which could be replaced if/when a fall occurs. This would save them from damage, & I don't think anyone makes them this way. Typically, its either all aluminum, or all nylon. A hybrid design would provide optimal double duty functionality as swingram protector & stand spool. Make it larger in diameter & then drill & thread it centrally to accept a plastic nylon extension.
What do you think?
WheelSpin, thats a great idea but it raises the question. Is this going to make the product so expensive that no one will buy it? I think it would then be smart to offer just a plain jane spool and also a seperate swingarm slider. And another thing, do people really drop their bikes so often that this is neccessary? Seems to me if I actually dropped my bike I'd just buy another pair of $20 spools if I just couldn't stand the scratches. Thanks for the idea and I'll think about it.
Ian
Ian
WheelSpin said:Ian,
As far as making them do double duty as swingarm savers, instead of just making them wider, could you possibly add a bolt-on plastic nylon attachment/extension which could be replaced if/when a fall occurs. This would save them from damage, & I don't think anyone makes them this way. Typically, its either all aluminum, or all nylon. A hybrid design would provide optimal double duty functionality as swingram protector & stand spool. Make it larger in diameter & then drill & thread it centrally to accept a plastic nylon extension.
What do you think?
I make mine with an aluminum insert in the center to give strebgth for use with stands and as a slider. Do you mean to put the plastic part on the inside with aluminum on the outside?
No, he means the opposite, aluminum on the inside with a plastic covered end that is easily replaced.
Ian
Ian
That's what I thought - exactly jow I used to make them. But they cost, as you mentioned, so much that it's just not worth it to make.R1formetoo said:No, he means the opposite, aluminum on the inside with a plastic covered end that is easily replaced.
Ian
Better off with all aluminum like you're going to make.
Eric
R1formetoo, you really want to buy a lathe just to do them?
I suggest you have them made by a (CNC) machine shop. They are faster and cheaper than you ever will be when running on a small scale.
Just my 2c
I suggest you have them made by a (CNC) machine shop. They are faster and cheaper than you ever will be when running on a small scale.
Just my 2c
P.S. I should know, had similar parts made in the hundreds for my other hobby: 
(made from Delrin what surelly isn't cheaper than aluminum)
http://www.argoshpr.ch/Images/Ariane020101/P1160002.JPG
(made from Delrin what surelly isn't cheaper than aluminum)http://www.argoshpr.ch/Images/Ariane020101/P1160002.JPG
21 - 40 of 47 Posts
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