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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I installed new needles at the 4 from top position, and adjusted my idle screws to 3.5 out. As I expected, the midrange is now nicer. I have a full two brothers system.

The kit was actually a vanceandhines kit for their slipons, so it came with 136&138 mains. I opted not to put the new mains in just yet because they seemed kindof large (since stock is 130). I need some suggestions here; what main jet sizes are people with full systems using? I was thinking 132.5 might be good, I don't want my mileage to go to complete shit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
can't follow directions

They don't apply. the directions are for a 98-99 R1 with a vance and hines slipon.

I own an 01 R1 with a full two brothers system.

I got the kit for $70, so thats why I bought it :D :finger
 

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4th clip position from top is highly rich;you may experience a nice midrange,but you are probably loosing a lot of hp on top...with power tailing off before cut-off.

you got to run the needles at the 3rd clip position and work from there.

but if its working better on the 4th clip pos.,it is simply because the taper of the needle is not rich enough in the midrange cause its made for a slipon with only a slight bias for richer taper...which should be even richer for the full system(thinner in the middle)...hence the #4 pos. on the present needles.

136-138 mains...are they genuine mikunis?
if they are dynojet,it is possible that they are near 132.5-135 since they use a diff. measurement.

and it is very annoying.

all good tuners are using genuine mikunis main jets simply because its easier to provide an experimental setup when you need it...with dynojet,you"re stuck with dynojet specialists.

a dyno run would probably tell you exactly what i"ve described earlier...too rich...but then again...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks martinc

that was some really useful information. The actual instructions for the needles say to place the e-clip on the 4th from top as a starting point. Since I am using a full system, perhaps I should use one of the supplied small washers to move it 1/2 step, to 4.5 from the top?
5 from top seems a little extreme.

So far I haven't hammered in the twisties yet with it, but on the freeway I do not detect any fade of power at 9K+. So what do you think?

I'll call V&H tomorrow to figure out the sizing of the mainjets (dynojet or not).
 

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ok,here"s one of the main reasons why not to use 4th and 5th pos from top;

compare the lenght of the custom needles with the kenght of the stock needles;if the customs are shorter,oyur looking for problems like the needles getting stuck out of the emulsion tubes openings and....crash,boum,ouch.

if they are the same lenght,before going further up ,check out what happend when opening the throttle all the way to the stop;keep in mind that even throttle cables do stretch,so if only the tip is in,its dangerous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok

so the kit is indeed manufacturered by dynojet. the dynojet dude said that 136 was the appropriate size for a stock airbox, the 138 was for a K&N filter (although everyone else says the K&N is stupid and the stock flows better?)

I'm fairly certain the needles are fine since the carb bodies did not change from 98-99 to 00-01, and the needles are on the recommended starting clip position.

the guy also said they recommended a pilot jet replacement, but no one else recommends it, so I'm guessing I'll just skip that b/c it appears to idle and be fine from 0-3k rpm.

yea yea I know I'm a dumbass, I should've just ordered a factory kit or somethin for $60 more haha

would've saved alot of guesswork.
 

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5 minutes shot in the ass

I cannot understand the mind set of calling the makers of the jet kit for their recomendations and then not doing what they said would work. You just wasted their time. If they say a piolet jet change is in order for their kit, I would think they would know best. Just my .02 worth
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
clarifications for jaystensec4cyl

1. I called them b/c I wanted to know if there was a formula for mikuni to dynojet size conversion. I did not call for recommendations, but if they want to offer extra advice I'm certainly not going to hang up. So don't accuse me of wasting anyone's time.

2. carb tuning is half science half trust your butt. They also recommended a K&N airfilter, but no one here does. pilot jet affects 0 to roughly 3 or 3.5k RPM, but mine runs fine as is. As far as I can tell, no ones word is absolute truth when it comes to things like this.

3. maybe they would know best, but if you had actually read the whole thread; you'll see that I am not using their kit in the manner instructed; I'm running a different year, and a different system brand and type.

now do you understand my "mindset"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
hey jjman, as mentioned in the thread above though, these are dynojet sizings which are different from mikuni. apparently their 136-138 is approximately the same size as the 132.5 mikuni.

martinc, you'll notice that my post you deleted contained no offensive matter except for the quote that came directly from jaystens4cyl's post subject!!

Sorry but I get pissed when people accuse me of wasting people's time without reading the damn thread.
 

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I am not using their kit in the manner instructed; I'm running a different year, and a different system brand and type.

now do you understand my "mindset"?

No I guess I still do not.

I would try calling TBR and see what they recommend for jetting with their pipe. Might be easier to just get the correct jet kit for your system, and try selling the kit you have on EBAY or something. I wish you luck in getting your bike to run in a way that makes you happy.

I am sorry I was rude in my last post. I really was not my intent to upset you, just to make a point. Ether way I am sorry.
 
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