[R1 PH]

Hi Im from PH just badly needed help! i have an R1 2017 Model

The engine is only cranking but when i jumpstart by pushing the bike and ride on the 2nd gear it works so far this is the troubleshooting that ive done,

1.) Reset Battery/ECU remove terminal for 4 hours still no go
2.) Try the original keys (spare) to rule out IMO issue

When cranking there is air coming from the muffler so suspected that this issue is not from the sprag clutch bearing not engaging correct me if im wrong thanks in advance really appreciate the help here,

 

[Svennie]

Notice how you can not use the battery to draw down current, but when pushed it starts.
Take a voltmeter and watch the battery drop in voltage when trying to start it. So 10v or less, it has no PUSH.
That says a battery that cannot keep pushing the volts out of the battery, being it's not holding 12v+ as reserve = Battery?

 

[R1 PH]

Hi Svennie the battery is brand new purchased a week ago, the battery is so strong but it cannot start the bike. no any unusual sounds when starting (cranking) i know when the battery is weak, even before replacing the battery it will start even if its weak, after the new battery installed the bilke runs 50 miles approx tested the new battery as well after installing no issue on the voltmeter.

 

[Svennie]

PH, I want numbers so you see 11v max is the lowest current draw out of a new battery, then before you remember that number sink to the lowest in point value (11.1v), that's as low a number you want to see, then shoots right back up to 12v+ the instant it starts.

Here is your basic FI tune up:
Set valves... every WOT? Beat it hard everyday, then a shorter check interval. So if 9,320km is book, then down to 6,213km for more race kind of hammering.
Sync throttle body... after every valve adjustment, then take a compression test to see how off the sync might be.
Change plugs... seems like it needs plugs if say they have more than 4660km on them. Iridium are short life, high performance plugs. Stick with the OEM for FI.
Change air cleaner... if has more than 7456km, or cut the km interval in half so you swap out the element at half that km.

 

[R1 PH]

PH, I want numbers so you see 11v max is the lowest current draw out of a new battery, then before you remember that number sink to the lowest in point value (11.1v), that's as low a number you want to see, then shoots right back up to 12v+ the instant it starts.

Here is your basic FI tune up:
Set valves... every WOT? Beat it hard everyday, then a shorter check interval. So if 9,320km is book, then down to 6,213km for more race kind of hammering.
Sync throttle body... after every valve adjustment, then take a compression test to see how off the sync might be.
Change plugs... seems like it needs plugs if say they have more than 4660km on them. Iridium are short life, high performance plugs. Stick with the OEM for FI.
Change air cleaner... if has more than 7456km, or cut the km interval in half so you swap out the element at half that km.

Hi Svennie

what is done for today is check the plugs there is no spark on each sparkplug already done it with a tester but still cranking check the fuel pump all good any idea on what to check next?

 

[1202067]

I'll chime in.

Check the neutral switch, the kickstand switch and the clutch switch. If that's all good verify that the fuel cut relay is operating correctly and that all of the grounds are clean and making good contact.

Also inspect the harness for any rubbing or pinched spots.

 

[Svennie]

... there is no spark on each sparkplug already done it with a tester but still cranking check the fuel pump all good any idea on what to check next?

Let's go over this once again. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you say you can push start it and it runs... yes or no?
Now you say... 'there is no spark on each sparkplug,' and now I'm going to ask, is there spark at each plug, yes or no?

-edit-

Here are the 3 things to make the engine run:
1. Fuel... you say you have fuel and the pump make noise, no starting and you smell gas. Then it's not fuel.
2. Spark... we are going back and forth on this so say yes there is spark. So far you have gas and spark.
3. Compression... this is the last place anyone thinks about, but if you have gas, you have spark, then there is only compression left. We should first see if there is compression as the very first move, not the wallet changing out fuel pumps, coils, plugs, other good known parts gathering dust and it has yet to start...

This is nowhere near rocket science to figure out 3 and only 3 variables for no start. What is missing? Now I want compression numbers, you brought back zip for a voltage read. I'm retired so for me I have all day, next month, years gone buy.

 

[R1 PH]

1. Fuel... you say you have fuel and the pump make noise, no starting and you smell gas. Then it's not fuel.
2. Spark... we are going back and forth on this so say yes there is spark. So far you have gas and spark.
3. Compression... this is the last place anyone thinks about, but if you have gas, you have spark, then there is only compression left. We should first see if there is compression as the very first move, not the wallet changing out fuel pumps, coils, plugs, other good known parts gathering dust and it has yet to start...

1.) Check the fuel pump and it was priming and throwing gas,
2.) Spark Already check with sparkplug checker there is no spark
3.) Compression is ok

We tried again to jumpstart the bike by pushing but its not starting at all,

What has done this time is to check my main relay and put my (Own) relay to different R1 and its working on them and tried their Main relay to mine but its not working.

BTW there is no spark in each and every sparkplugs.

 

[1202067]

1. Fuel... you say you have fuel and the pump make noise, no starting and you smell gas. Then it's not fuel.
2. Spark... we are going back and forth on this so say yes there is spark. So far you have gas and spark.
3. Compression... this is the last place anyone thinks about, but if you have gas, you have spark, then there is only compression left. We should first see if there is compression as the very first move, not the wallet changing out fuel pumps, coils, plugs, other good known parts gathering dust and it has yet to start...

1.) Check the fuel pump and it was priming and throwing gas,
2.) Spark Already check with sparkplug checker there is no spark
3.) Compression is ok

We tried again to jumpstart the bike by pushing but its not starting at all,

What has done this time is to check my main relay and put my (Own) relay to different R1 and its working on them and tried their Main relay to mine but its not working.

BTW there is no spark in each and every sparkplugs.

Again, check the safety's. Clutch switch, kick stand switch and neutral switch.

 

[Svennie]

PH, no spark to all plugs says it's somewhere where like the sub-main harness at the injector/spark stick harness. Find that harness connector that plugs into the main wire harness. Connectors apart, are the pins green in color? Are any pins bent and not entering the other connector end?

All 4 with no spark is a harness wire(s)... dropout/pin corrosion/ground for all 4 plugs.

 

[Svennie]

Sub-main harness is the combined injector/spark stick harness zip-tied to the throttle body. With all 4 dropping out is possibly a ground problem.

If say you pushed started it, that's kicker up, kill on, ect... possibly not it as far as the walk, or run with pushing to start.

 

[sixtwosix]

What has done this time is to check my main relay and put my (Own) relay to different R1 and its working on them and tried their Main relay to mine but its not working.

Yet you guys didn't swap batteries to see if you bought a battery that was marked as "new" but wasn't actually new?

R1 PH, if you're using a stock battery, those things are trash. My 2018 R1M's gave out in under a year. I was barely able to get the bike started, but once it started it ran perfectly fine for 30 miles (48 km) until I stopped to get gas and couldn't get it started up again. It wouldn't even crank. When I took the battery in that day to see what the issue was, it held voltage fine when it was tested. It just couldn't supply the cranking amps when it was thrown under load. If you have access to a multimeter or voltmeter, I'd strongly suggest you follow what Svennie told you to do initially. If not, take it into a battery shop that has a tester that can throw the battery under load.
Another thing to note is that you say it's a "new" battery. What's the manufacture date on the battery? Has it been sitting around for a while before you got it? Those lead acid batteries have about a 2 year life span from their date of manufacture from my experience with them.

 

[R1 PH]

Hi I think the issue was resolved for now the scanner says it was P0335, it was deleted and recovered however the issue now is the bike is hard starting now but if its already started and reach the minimum operating temperature of 90c to 100c then you turn it of and the next start is easy and one click, might be a failing sensor and guys have you tried to replace the CPS sensor that is made from china it was 14 dollars hoping to get a reply on the other thread who used this part below is the link for the reference part thank you!

Artudatech bobina de pastilla de pulso para estator, para Yamaha YZF R1, R1S, R1M, MTN1000, FZ 10|Encendido de motocicleta| - AliExpress

 

[sixtwosix]

Reference this thread to pull diagnostic codes. Are you seeing 12 come up on the dash?

 

[Svennie]

... the next start is easy and one click, might be a failing sensor and guys have you tried to replace...

See if this makes sense. My bike is cold and takes awhile to warm up, so yes it cranks so some kinetic heat helps as it's cold and fuel condenses back to drops, not remains in a mist when warm.

There is no might be a failing sensor. Show me the heat vs a failed sensor not showing locked on the dash even if you wipe it off, it will just reset as a code... not go looking for that sensor?

Keep the wallet open for gas and oil changes, not throw parts at it. That's the beauty of the computer bike. It's tells you at the dash to go see the doctor. Do not touch the bike if it instantly starts hot every time. Does that make sense the sensors can fire that off so quick, is something out of spec or did basic science of solid-liquid-gas trip you up on start up? Make sense nothing is wrong with the bike?

Andata is how you diagnose a bike without picking up a wrench, here is where home he sits 👃iffing outhings... ☕🍩

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)