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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Your head gasket is good bro, go get a tune up.

What's your milage? Have the carbs been done to your knowledge?
Thank **** for that mate I can deflate now :ROFLMAO: it's had the carbs completely rebuilt aswell as a new dynojet kit fitted it also has a k&n high flo filter on it. At the moment it sits at 2000rpm at the lights sounds as though I've always got my hand on the throttle a touch but they get Brought back down once I let the clutch out. I will get round to sorting that on my next day off. To be honest 1202067 I think the better question is what hasn't it had its had the works. Its a work in progress though as it is 21 years old there's alot thats not quite how I like it but I plan on sorting all that out. The mileage is 34000 valves etc all got checked by a mate thats a well seasoned mechanic he's very thorough gave the bike a full going over compression tests and so on its in a multi coloured blue at the minute as i chose to do it myself to save some cash again not my best move but it'll do for now. I am going to get it all the same colour but I just wanted some fun on it before the really cold weather sets in I just passed my test on the 22nd of October due to the covid carry on I was the happiest guy in the whole of scotland that day I can assure you lol. I suppose you could say I'm what they call yamaha daft I've got a few yamahas in the garage and the r1 in the Mrs kitchen love my off road bikes more to be honest atleast when your ripping up fields plod ain't there with his speed gun ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
When I went to look at the carbs I Found out that 3 out of the 4 fuel needles in the carbs were snapped and worn aswell probably why it was sluggish and seemed as though it was struggling the more you gave it throttle when I first got the bike thats why I got the dynojet kit the carbs got cleaned aswell as all new seals.
 

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Upload:
Up at the very top is the address bar. Just lay the courser over the bar that has the video address, then:
Press Ctrl+A - address should turn blue.
Hold Ctrl, lift off of A, press C for copy.
Come to your write box here, set the courser in the box:
Press Ctrl+V - address should show up you copied and pasted. That, or hand type each character as shown in the address bar, and then into the write box and there is a long hand way. Shortcut keys is the other way.

A third way is to type the utube title and name of the author here and I'll assist with the c&p if you like.
 

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I concur with numbers.
The leak needs to be addressed. Not familiar with the petcock design for said years, but if vacuum assist, it's still a leak. If gravity feed and you do not turn it off, leak means it's above the jet holes and will leak down into the head, past the rings, down into the crankcase and raise the oil level. Smell the oil for gas.

With the leaking carb, drop that bowl, lift the float so it stops the flow of gas; and say there is a prime setting on the petcock handle, you turn it to there and does the leak occur?
Yes. Then it's a bad float needle.
No. Then it needs a level and the tang touching the needle needs an adjust up.

Backyard, no float level tool, you eyeball the float as level to the horizontal of the bowl touching that top part of the carb body. That, or you see a gas etching and make that shadow the level line. Then you hold it there, turn the prime on, and if it leaks, just ever so slightly raise the tang and do not bend the floats so one is higher than the other. That's the caution moving that tang only.

Then drop the float about 2mm or less and did the flow begin? Yes. That's close enough. Too low of a float drop after the 2mm range, the tang was bent too high.

If say it is a non-adjust tang, then the needle and seat needs both changed as a set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Upload:
Up at the very top is the address bar. Just lay the courser over the bar that has the video address, then:
Press Ctrl+A - address should turn blue.
Hold Ctrl, lift off of A, press C for copy.
Come to your write box here, set the courser in the box:
Press Ctrl+V - address should show up you copied and pasted. That, or hand type each character as shown in the address bar, and then into the write box and there is a long hand way. Shortcut keys is the other way.

A third way is to type the utube title and name of the author here and I'll assist with the c&p if you like.
I'm on my phone mate I haven't got access to a computer at the minute ive not had any spare cash it's either going on fuel or parts for this bike it is on my list of things to get though. I've been out on it 3 times since I had the issue and no more leaks fluids were all good aswell this morning before I left I will just keep and eye on the coolant for the next week or two and hopefully no more issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I don't have the issue of the leaking carbs anymore guys that got sorted when i changed out the needles and rebuilt the carbs thanks for the replys though I dont seem to have anymore leaks anywhere thankfully.
 

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I get caught out of step myself many times thinking it's this variable to check but forget.... This is a carb, not FI needing pressure.
Damnit. You're right.

Still needs the pump for fuel rate though, if it's good on startup but going lean at stop lights, it 'might' be the fuel pump though.

While you are pretty much right on the nose, I'm going to stand behind it and say again, verify fuel pressure.
 

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Ah, part #40. You were right, numbers. See me schooling myself with the product? But pressure is back to the book, key on, pours how much out into the beaker and measures how many ounces once keyed?

Then again, instant start is pressure present.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Hi
Use to are top class gents thanks for all this help I've just been watching you both go back and fourth. Thats grand I know I need to fine tune the carbs still so that is on the cards then that should solve the idling issue I'm fairly sure that was one of things it got that was new I never seem to be away from the fuel garage aswell that could also be down to the carbs but ill double check all the above just to be on the safe side.
 

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You want part #36 and swap that out = Sluggish.
You want to change out the AC element = Sluggish.
You want to do a test with the left carb drain #24...

Cut a plastic drinking bottle tall enough so you can just move it under the drain screw and the bottom hits the case and stays there. Drain the bowl now [#24] and empty it, then leave the screw open. Start the bike. That first few pulses of start should start pouring out quick = Not fuel filter/not pump... no book, no tools, just eyes looking for sluggish.

Yes, been having fun with 'Numbers.' I agree, he's top notch. Back and forth diagnosing stumbles along, none are wrong, just a lot of variables popping up for one thing.
 

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You want part #36 and swap that out = Sluggish.
You want to change out the AC element = Sluggish.
You want to do a test with the left carb drain #24...

Cut a plastic drinking bottle tall enough so you can just move it under the drain screw and the bottom hits the case and stays there. Drain the bowl now [#24] and empty it, then leave the screw open. Start the bike. That first few pulses of start should start pouring out quick = Not fuel filter/not pump... no book, no tools, just eyes looking for sluggish.

Yes, been having fun with 'Numbers.' I agree, he's top notch. Back and forth diagnosing stumbles along, none are wrong, just a lot of variables popping up for one thing.
He's on a dynojet kit bro, not the stock setup.
Hi
Use to are top class gents thanks for all this help I've just been watching you both go back and fourth. Thats grand I know I need to fine tune the carbs still so that is on the cards then that should solve the idling issue I'm fairly sure that was one of things it got that was new I never seem to be away from the fuel garage aswell that could also be down to the carbs but ill double check all the above just to be on the safe side.
Thanks bud, I do try to help, and @Svennie is definitely contributing to the forum as well, things appear to be all right in the universe.

What settings are you running on the jet kit? How many turns do you have on each air screw? What pilot jet do you have installed? Where is your needle clip set? What main jet are you running? These factors will help in diagnosis of your issue. My gut instinct is to tell you to either open your fuel air screw, or to step your pilot up one size depending on the fuel air screw setting, but again, it may be the fuel pump.

Download a copy of the service manual HERE and look for the section on fuel delivery, it should outline a test procedure for the fuel pump. Follow it to the letter.
 

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I have nothing to contribute to the issue at hand but I just want to say... first to the OP, good luck on finding the parts you need. Yamaha stopped producing them many many moons ago.

@Svennie can you please stop using cheap cycle parts as your parts website because they are certainly not cheap! Here's 4 other sites that have them beat by a mile.

www.partshark.com/oemparts/c/yamaha_motorcycle/parts
www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/c/yamaha_motorcycle/parts
www.ronayers.com/oemparts/c/yamaha_motorcycle/parts
www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
He's on a dynojet kit bro, not the stock setup.

Thanks bud, I do try to help, and @Svennie is definitely contributing to the forum as well, things appear to be all right in the universe.

What settings are you running on the jet kit? How many turns do you have on each air screw? What pilot jet do you have installed? Where is your needle clip set? What main jet are you running? These factors will help in diagnosis of your issue. My gut instinct is to tell you to either open your fuel air screw, or to step your pilot up one size depending on the fuel air screw setting, but again, it may be the fuel pump.

Download a copy of the service manual HERE and look for the section on fuel delivery, it should outline a test procedure for the fuel pump. Follow it to the letter.
Hi G appologies for the delay I'm not 100% sure what the carbs are set up as at the moment as it was a friend that did those for me as I wasn't willing to dive into stuff I never really new much about. 2 strokes are more up my street if I'm honest hell of alot simpler thats for sure I know the idle screw is turned down to the lowest point it can go and it hangs at 2grand at the lights or if I come to a stop it's not usually bad on warm up it'll sit at 1grand it's mainly when everythings up to temperature it starts hanging at 2 grand ive gave my mate a shout to find out what it was he put the settings as. its really beggining to be irritating every time I stop probably causing me to drink alot of fuel aswell I never seem to be away from the fuel garage either thanks alot guys genuinely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I have nothing to contribute to the issue at hand but I just want to say... first to the OP, good luck on finding the parts you need. Yamaha stopped producing them many many moons ago.

@Svennie can you please stop using cheap cycle parts as your parts website because they are certainly not cheap! Here's 4 other sites that have them beat by a mile.

www.partshark.com/oemparts/c/yamaha_motorcycle/parts
www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/c/yamaha_motorcycle/parts
www.ronayers.com/oemparts/c/yamaha_motorcycle/parts
www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle
Thanks alot kevap ill give these a look I do need parts so where ever is the cheapest would be ideal the patter on here is top shelf quality (many many moons ago) haven't heard that one in long while mate haha 10/10.
 
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