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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright guys. I made a post a few days ago and it was fairly newbie about my keys. Everyone was quick and happy to help so I decided to create one thread with a few links to videos of my bike highlighting all of its flaws and document all of the things I do along the way.

I will 100% need help because this is the first bike I will have torn into real good. I've wanted a project for many years and I can now finally focus on one.

All that aside let's dive into the bike.

It is a 2000 R1. ( I seen it referred to as an ejj I believe. Please correct me on that)
The bike has 70,000 km and a rebuilt title. It was dropped and there is from what I see three welds to repair the portion of the frame beyond my seat and the passenger as well. The plastics are cracked and painted poorly and the gas tank has a dent repair done poorly. The key needs to be wiggled to get the tumblers to work as well. Even with the new one I had cut today. I can live with all this and fix it in the winter. I want to ride this summer

Video showing how rough the bike is all around



This is it starting. Don't mind me being a little weird in the video. I didnt think id be sharing this one

First problem -
The bike runs (or did for me) but the clutch doesn't completely engage when warm and the bike will try to creep in first at red lights. It has been swapped from oem to barret spring clutch kit and I assume still worn pressure plates as the cable feels to be tight.

Second problem-
shown in this video below. The bike won't start. New battery ( I may have ruined from starting and not riding) it acts like it has no power to it. Trickle charging tonight however the tach makes a sound that never goes away unless it's idling on.

 

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Holy Wow. That’s rough. Unsure what the high note that is coming out of you gauge cluster is? Unhappy electronics? Good luck as it looks like a money pit
 

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Holy Wow. That’s rough. Unsure what the high note that is coming out of you gauge cluster is? Unhappy electronics? Good luck as it looks like a money pit
I mean, I'm kind of looking forward to watching his progress, so I followed his thread about an hour ago. As time goes by if I have any help to lend, I'll throw my hat in the ring. He's got some nice stuff on it and as he goes through it it should polish up nice. It's a 21 year old bike though, so some roughness is to be expected.
 

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Oh I wholeheartedly agree. If I can help from afar, I will too. Unfortunately, the 5JJ parts are really scarce and the good pieces cost $$$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@WhyzeeF @1202067 thanks guys. Ya she won't be cheap. I'm preying to the bike gods I can put a few hundred in to keep it running reliable enough this summer to venture just around town. I'm ordering some new fairing bolts off Amazon today, pulling off the rest of the plastics and cleaning them up the best I can at the least today. Maybe prepping for some rattle can paint today

This battery/electronic issue hit me off guard so thats the first thing I tackle now financially. I want the bike to be starting and running everytime I go out to it lol I'm going to order a new tachometer. It's giving me the EXUP code right now so when I get into cleaning the carb I'll figure out what I'm doing there as well
 

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Not to be critical or anything, but, if you don't have a budget for a battery, how will you afford tires and oil? These machines are expensive to operate and maintain, that's just part of it. If you want inexpensive, you may want to look at other machines. Items like the chain (you should change that one), the brake pads, the tires, these are consumable, just like the oil.

Pearl of advice, if I were in your shoes, I'd sell that one while it was running.

With the exup, to adjust the cables, remove the cap from the butterfly (5mm allan bolts). I suggest using an electric impact. Air impact is too strong and you'll sheer them. A ratchet will slip and you will strip the head (ask me how I know). An electric impact is the goldilocks tool. After that, center the tab between the marks. Then turn the machine on and watch the travel. Make sure the tab stays between the marks. Check the exup when you change the oil after that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Not to be critical or anything, but, if you don't have a budget for a battery, how will you afford tires and oil? These machines are expensive to operate and maintain, that's just part of it. If you want inexpensive, you may want to look at other machines. Items like the chain (you should change that one), the brake pads, the tires, these are consumable, just like the oil.

Pearl of advice, if I were in your shoes, I'd sell that one while it was running.
I have a budget for a battery.

I bought a new battery and it started this after. I have the battery on a trickle charger now.



The "budget" is flexible. I wanted to get it running right this summer and looking right in the winter. I will probably have it all done before September to be totally honest.

I also have new tires (Michelin), break pads and a new chain. Along with new shifter and rear brake, grips, sprocket.


I am however going to spend it according to my needs to have it on the road for the summer.

Lol and ya these hobbies are expensive you got that right. My Subaru WRX just cost me 10,000 on a new out of warranty engine and 1500 to stage 1+ it a few months ago. I'm trying to get away from that desire to modify my car for a couple years. Hoepfully this does that. The dollar for dollar comparison is negligible when we're talking a 2000 yamaha and a new Subaru. Otherwise I'll be putting money into both all summer haha. Adulting responsibly is hard lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Side note. I am removing the lights and cluster now and the rest of the plastic to find my other hidden issues and so far it's alot of stripped and rusty hardware and sh*ty re wiring.
 

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Good deal, I misunderstood. Now I can go back to enjoying following the thread.

I edited my post with some instructions on exup adjustment. Hope it helps. Good luck.

We like pictures, so if you could share what you are looking at, that'd be cool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Good deal, I misunderstood. Now I can go back to enjoying following the thread.

I edited my post with some instructions on exup adjustment. Hope it helps. Good luck.

We like pictures, so if you could share what you are looking at, that'd be cool.
I will definitely follow the exup advice. I have my gopro out staring me down as I do this as well so YouTube will have clips but I am a photo guy too. Once I figure out the uploading to my album then sharing here in the comments I may get out of hand posting here lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·


Two photo galleries of what I just did today and some of the other day. I'm limited to an hour or two a day of this stuff for a couple weeks. If only we could buy more time.

And a video of the removal and battery on trickle and what I came into on the trickle charger after thirty mins.


Don't mind the music, I'm learning the editing side of life too.. (along with investing, day and swing trading on the tsx, crypto trading more passively then the last two years and Rapid intervention fire rescue scenarios. Can't seem to get enough knowledge or time)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oh, you don't have a butterfly, so you'll need a servo buddy.

Whats your opinion on deleting exup. I see alot of people saying don't unless you race, and others saying do when your having the 7000 tach code.

I may order a wire harness and servo eliminator, and a manifold. I don't want to get into Tuning so I'll stick with oem if that's the direction it forces me to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It's deleted already. The shiney plate on the manifold under the oil pan. You'll need a servo buddy so it doesn't throw a code.
My bad. That makes alot more sense for me to look at now.

Funny. The previous owner said that it "randomly started jumping to 7 on the tach few months into riding it" as if it didn't delete it and cause the problem. He thought it needed a new tach he said.
 

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The smoke gives me some concern, I'd check the valve lash and compression test it if it were mine. I think the tach is probably fine. Might be something in the motor or something with the valves. I'm hoping you aren't getting blowby.

If it's valve guide seals that's usually not a big issue, just watch oil consumption, with a genesis engine though I'd replace them if they are leaking because they are notorious for wearing out guides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The smoke gives me some concern, I'd check the valve lash and compression test it if it were mine. I think the tach is probably fine. Might be something in the motor or something with the valves. I'm hoping you aren't getting blowby.

If it's valve guide seals that's usually not a big issue, just watch oil consumption, with a genesis engine though I'd replace them if they are leaking because they are notorious for wearing out guides.
Well. He also claimed to have used seafoam for the first start of the year, but I'm heading back outside now to pop off the front nose, lights and I will try to lift the tank a bit but I may have to much fuel in there.

Hoepfully he wasn't clever enough to lie about the seafoam lol or else I'll be more likely taking this bike for parts and spares and buying another in better shape like ya suggest


Nothings stopping me from riding this summer lol
 

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The surest way to know the health of the engine is to check the valve lash and do either a compression or leakdown test. If it has sea foam in it, that explains the smoke. A compression or leakdown test would tell you for sure though.

Looking at the overall state of the machine, I'd check the valves. It will also verify the timing and you will be able to check the valve seals and look at the condition of the head. It's a good practice when you purchase a machine anyhow.

PRO TIP: Pull the engine to do the valves. Makes things easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The surest way to know the health of the engine is to check the valve lash and do either a compression or leakdown test. If it has sea foam in it, that explains the smoke. A compression or leakdown test would tell you for sure though.

Looking at the overall state of the machine, I'd check the valves. It will also verify the timing and you will be able to check the valve seals and look at the condition of the head. It's a good practice when you purchase a machine anyhow.

PRO TIP: Pull the engine to do the valves. Makes things easier.
I think your right. I will pull it out for sure. The painting and other components to making it look as clean as new will require I do that anywyas.


Am I right in assuming it's a fairly simple engine to pull? I did so homework and it doesn't look bad.


Also am I fine to start the bike without the tach and rest of the front on it if I need
 

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Pulling the engine is very straightforward and not difficult at all. Make sure you get assembly lube. Download the manual. Have an inch point torque wrench handy for the cam cap bolts. After this it'll run like a scalded dog.
 
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