Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums banner

81 - 100 of 101 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #81 ·
To my eyes everything is dirty but checks out as unburnt and connected.

I found a guy with a similar issue on YouTube who says his brand new battery was 100% pooched. His vibration sound is a little different but it's a different year r1




I need to get a tester and start checking the wires properly. Is there a safe way to boost or bump the bike to rule out the battery even if its charging.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
2008 r1
Joined
·
739 Posts
Get a multimeter. Check your grounds. Did you try starting the bike with the cluster removed? Same situation? Just a bunch of clicking from the cdi?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Get a multimeter. Check your grounds. Did you try starting the bike with the cluster removed? Same situation? Just a bunch of clicking from the cdi?
Yup same thing. I will buy a multimeter sometime in the next few days but I may try to give the bike a boost tonight to get this battery out of the diagnosis. I found another couple videos of the same issue on YouTube but both used ask and never update results and don't even use YouTube on those accounts anymore. sigh
 

·
Registered
2008 r1
Joined
·
739 Posts
Seriously, check your grounds though. It could be something really simple.

Also, check your battery connections and roll pop it. A lot of what I am reading indicates a bad battery. If it roll pops, it's most likely the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #86 ·
That will be the one I get from the sounds of the sale at my local Canadian tire.

And I have made a preumptive decision to run 0 Guage from the positive terminal and negative terminal to the rear seat and leaving a glove box booster under that seat potentially for thw summers just in case me or another rider hit problems like this

(Regardless its related to my current no start issue)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Update for today.

I finally got out to get the bike done dither diagnosing. I first charged the battery again and put it in. Turn the key and got clicks. Dead.
So I turn the subaru around and shut off the car set the jumpers up and I get better clicks but still no real effort from the starter. Some but not anything to say it cranks.. I notice however because it's the first time in the dark that my taillights are on. I can not turn them off at all. I'm unsure if that's normal for canada spec but I will add they have ballast there as well.

So I think. Hey I may have a heavy draw here and everything visually checks out. No multi meter to test yet. Screw it im six hundred dollars in, if my cdi is not fried yet and it does from running my car to boat this bike so be it. Ill be spending more money but I'm trying this.

So I start my car. 13-14v. Whatever a subaru idles at. I turn on my lights and ac and try to draw some away from the boost and I turn the bike key, click the kill and send power to the starter. She fires right up effortlessly no choke at all. (Forgot to check)

One loud backfire immediately but idled fine. I check the choke see my mess up. Put it at half choke and disconnect the cables. Bike stays on and idled great. No more choke still idled great. I would have drove it around but don't have time. So I unplug my taillight harness incase they are drawing that much power. Bolt the seat on and type this up.


I'm going to bed but feel free to chime in full hate on the boosting that way, I am now questioning that backfire a little but not much and mostly the wiring.

I'll upload a video of the tails working and blinkers. 100% sure I'll be going to oem front to rear with used harness and new lights.


Ps. White smoke went away after a few seconds of idle but it was there at first
 

·
Registered
2008 r1
Joined
·
739 Posts
You are going to have to go though that electrical with a fine toothed comb. There may be a park position on the ignition, if there is, tail light stays on. It's a European thing. Glad the cdi is good. Get some sleep. Wish I was closer by, we could slam a 6'r and sort her out some weekend. C'est la vie as the french say.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #93 ·
I'm trying to figure out if it is the brake light stuff or the relay unit.

View attachment 1018746





View attachment 1018747
This thread makes me lean toward the flasher relay.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Looks atta way. Jerk that puppy out and give her a crank.
Pulled er out Hooked up to car git it started disconnect from car and walked away

5 mins later heard bike dying as if it was loosing electric power. Turns out that was the case. This brand new battery is pooched for sure at the least. I'm half expecting it to be getting enough power that of I was driving it would be getting a charge (providing the battery would take the damn charge) so im theoretically rolling out the stator for right now.


Multi meter en route. Monday.

I got a 20$ free credit in the mail for the Atlantic lottery. So I entered the code into my account and tried to by 20 1$ tickets. Well I wound up with 19 tickets and a 1$ credit. I took the credit over to the 5-15 cents per spin online lottery machine style game and BOOM! 1000$ lol pulled out 990$ for the bike and left ten in to re gamble
 

·
Registered
2008 r1
Joined
·
739 Posts
Check mr motorcycle recycler, highside cycles etc. Seems legit though. The front sub is a little high, yt the main and the rear seem good. Same with the other components. I'd honestly test the r/r and the stator though. Also, have you had a chance to get your assembly lube and stuff for the valves? I'd be working towards a compression test myself before I went to throwing the kitchen sink at the electrical.

Also, is your main harness really bad? Do you need another cdi? She cranked just fine with a jump right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #99 ·
Check mr motorcycle recycler, highside cycles etc. Seems legit though. The front sub is a little high, yt the main and the rear seem good. Same with the other components. I'd honestly test the r/r and the stator though. Also, have you had a chance to get your assembly lube and stuff for the valves? I'd be working towards a compression test myself before I went to throwing the kitchen sink at the electrical.

Also, is your main harness really bad? Do you need another cdi? She cranked just fine with a jump right?
The local engine shop is going to do the test for me some time in the next couple week they said. I will have the multimeter testing parts in a couple days but figured if I'm already browsing for it all I may as well get price list made up with how hard sourcing some of these things will be. Mainly the harness.

I cant tell if the main one is horrible but I can see that it's gotten enough heat to melt the plastic around it in a few spots and I have found cut wires not only at the lights but from the exup removal. I also got the tank up and it didn't look amazing under there but I was pretty briefly under there looking at the wires and cobwebs lol.


And with the jump it didn't start super fast or anything. I had to let it sit for a while with the car idling the second I tried to start it after that video you seen. When it comes to fuel and getting spark and turning over, the second she has the power it starts well. But getting the power is definitely not the easiest even when my Cobb tuner reads 13+ volts idling and jumpers on. I'm certain a bump start would result in me very winded giving up to say the least lol

If I have the bike hooked up, and the car is off. Theoretically it's starting off the cars battery so it shouldn't have a hard time at all right? Like it shouldn't seem like its still dead making ticking noises.
 

·
Registered
2008 r1
Joined
·
739 Posts
She's carbed. You're gonna have to get them cleaned up. I use an ultrasonic cleaner and a 50 50 mix of pine sol and distilled water at 42°c. Works well. Then I use compressed air to verify all the passages are clean. I haven't had to use a carb kit on anything I've worked on in about a year. I don't even order gaskets very often. A tube of hylamar and I'm good to go for a long long time.

If I were in your shoes I'd clean up my main and I'd try to get a good sub harness.

So far as the jump goes and what not, after you go over your wiring and you get everything sorted out, she will go to working. Something is going to ground or something. Might be as simple as take it apart and put it back together.

Swing arm pivot is due lube anyhow.
 
81 - 100 of 101 Posts
Top