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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, I am going to make my first real post on here regarding a Solved Problem on my 09 raven r1, but first I have to thank Emry, and everyone else on here for adding high quality info to this forum.

I have a Raven that I bought brand new here in TX, and was hit by a drunk driver(in my truck) shortly after- broke my neck, and spent the last 2 years picking up the pieces & getting back to normal while the bike sat in storage on a battery tender the entire time.

During the 2 years it sat, 2 batteries were ruined by a what I know know was a faulty battery tender, and when I spoke to my man at the Dealer, he helped me swap out the tender, and felt bad that I was on my 3rd battery w/<300 miles, so he recommended that I try a New brand of Gel battery that was less expensive but still high in quality.

The bike has 275 miles on it, only mods are racing baffles & HID's, which have been unhooked during storage(just in case of constant draw). I got the battery home, I slid it in place, and went to connect pos/neg leads... when I saw 1 spark, I stopped to investigate and realized that this new brands battery terminals are BACKWARDS in position compared to the factory gel cell, I completely missed what I would consider Obvious Danger because the leads on my bike are ran in such a way that the positive lead was only just barely long enough to reach the previous battery's pos terminal, and the same thing goes for the neg lead.

As soon as I saw the spark, I realized wtf I had done and went to checking fuses. After replacing the Main Fuse, and visualizing checking others, I moved on to unbolting the battery box, topside fairings, zip ties and etc in order to re-route both battery leads. After a couple hours of finagling I was able to find a position that wouldnt rub off the insulation over time, and got the new battery hooked up correctly without having to extend the wires themselves.

Turned it over and over and it wouldnt start. Then it would start, but only Idle, and it sounded it was only running on 2 cylinders, and I had Zero throttle response, and the throttle gauge would bearly register when I gave it gas sometimes, then others it woudnt respond at all- but in both cases the engine never responded and stayed stuck at rough idle. The Exhaust was Dumping fuel. I tried letting it warm up, thinking if it was spark plugs maybe they'd wear/warm in a bit and burn off any old residue I thought it was possible that I had some old fuel, or maybe gummed up sparks from trying to start it unsuccessfully so many times, or maybe the racing baffles were confusing the o2 sensor after sitting for such a long time, etc..

The manual for the bike is in 1 of a hundred boxes in storage along with the bike, after a couple hours of pointless unpacking I decided to walk away for a while, and logged in here to search for common issues. I was originally trying to find out where the OBD2 plug was at(or whatever bikes had) in order to check for codes, and read a thread where someone mentioned that the ACTUAL CODE # itself will show up on the Dash. CODE 60!

I found quite a few code 60s on here, talking about burnt ECU's, throttle sensors, and etc; all from people who had crossed the terminals for one reason or another- and plenty of expensive and time consuming ways to "rule" out one fried part or another. Just before I went to give up and plan to have the embarrassing experience of letting the dealer handle it and empty my wallet there, I came across this 1 part of 1 single thread that solved my problem"

Find the fuse labelled "ETV", if that fuse blows it will set a code 60. (under the seat if I recall, someone else have the specific location??) While your are at it check all of the fuses. But yes the ECU can be damaged by reverse polarity.
The ETV is a 7.5v mini bus fuse that, on my particular bike, was in a small black housing with several other fuses, and was routed underneath the battery box & basically Hidden from access. Sure enough, the ETV was burnt, I popped a new one in- the code cleared immediatly & the bike runs like the Beast I meant it to be. Whoever ran the harness on my bike must have been a little hung over, OR have just given his 2 weeks notice.

Just wanted to say thanks for the good knowledge here, hopefully this long and ridiculously descriptive post will help the next poor sap who changes batteries and gets a Code60. If the wires arent long enough to be hooked up any other way, and ran in such a way that it tricks your brain into not doublechecking... man, I consider myself extremely mechanically inclined, but hell- its bound to happen to others. At least this way there will be a solution at the top of the Search list, and help avoid any of us looking Ultra Stupid when the dealer calls you back to say that you towed the bike to them for a fuse. The only thing I think that could have prevented this is if my dealers' parts mgr would have warned me that the terminals where reversed in the first place. Come to find out that Even he didnt notice they were reversed, and he would've done the same thing. Thanks for the Space

Matt
 

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I just did the same thing. Blew out 2 main fuses until i figured out that the battery was backwards. Im hoping that my ECU isnt fired and that its this ETV fuse. You wouldnt happen to have a picture of what this fuse looks like? Also where can you get a new one without having to goto the dealer and pay their high prices?
 

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You are a life saver. Opened up that little black box. Saw the fuse labeled ETV. Pulled it out and it was done. Lucky me, Yamaha put spares inside that same little black box and BAM! Started right up. Rode it for about 20 miles and loving every second of it.

Oh how I would have looked like an idiot towing it to the dealer, spending butt loads of $$$ just to have them replace the fuse.

Thanks again, and thanks to the great people on R1-Forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Kimlo: Awesome- I knew I wouldn't be the first or last to run into this ridiculous problem- glad I could keep you from towing it to the dealer for a fuse and loosing all your Bike-Cred, ha.
 

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Same exact thing happened to me 2 weeks ago.. ETV fuse along with 50A fuse blew after accidentally crossing the battery terminals..
I was at a lost - replaced the obvious 50A fuse and my boy was still not starting. Figured that it was cold from the winter and/or the fuel line was gunked up.. Should've seen me running up and down the block trying to pop the clutch to no avail for like 2 days.. lol
Not good.
Actually called the dealer and was about to arrange pickup for the next day..
That night i'm combing this magnificent site and after careful inquiries I came across the ETV fuse issue....
Immediately went out to the garage pulled open the fuse box, identified the etv fuse, made the sign of the cross and pulled it up....
Yes!!! It was indeed blown.... Replaced it with the spare and we have ignition....
The sweet sound of my boy starting up and blowing out the dreadfulness of this years horrible NYC winter was music to my ears..
R1 forum rules 'B!!
Wish everybody a safe and kick ass riding season...
 

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Same thing happened to me in early January. Started pouring at my place and after I parked, accidentally turned the key a extra click to the left after lock(the one with pole lights and tail lights on) and left it overnight. Battery went flat and couldn't start the next morning. Removed the battery and charged it at a workshop, and when i reconnected the battery, didnt notice it was upside down and there was a spark. After connecting everything, bike could start but has no throttle response. Error code 60 shown on display. Came into this forum and realized the ETV fuse in the fuse box could be blown due to reverse polarity. Replaced it with a spare in the fuse box and error code was gone. Thanks to the help from this forum, saved me the towing fee !
 

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Same exact thing happened to me 2 weeks ago.. ETV fuse along with 50A fuse blew after accidentally crossing the battery terminals..
I was at a lost - replaced the obvious 50A fuse and my boy was still not starting. Figured that it was cold from the winter and/or the fuel line was gunked up.. Should've seen me running up and down the block trying to pop the clutch to no avail for like 2 days.. lol
Not good.
Actually called the dealer and was about to arrange pickup for the next day..
That night i'm combing this magnificent site and after careful inquiries I came across the ETV fuse issue....
Immediately went out to the garage pulled open the fuse box, identified the etv fuse, made the sign of the cross and pulled it up....
Yes!!! It was indeed blown.... Replaced it with the spare and we have ignition....
The sweet sound of my boy starting up and blowing out the dreadfulness of this years horrible NYC winter was music to my ears..
R1 forum rules 'B!!
Wish everybody a safe and kick ass riding season...
MAN U SAVED MY LIFE! THANK YOU! I switched the battery connectors and got an error 60 even after main fuse replacement. I changed the etv fuse and all is good now!!!! ALL THANKS TO U!!!
 

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Same thing just happened to me! Put a new battery in and reversed the polarity, got a small spark...then I put the battery in the right way, lights came on, bike turned on, but no throttle response. After trying to start my baby for a while I called the dealer and asked if I needed to charge the battery before I installed it... Of course he said no "it should start". Got on here and found this feed, switched out the ETV fuse and my baby came on like a beast!!


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Thanks for posting this, I just ran into this exact issue during my rebuild. Can anyone please explain which type of 7.5 amp fuse to replace with - I think mini blade is the correct one to buy?
 

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After somehow swaping the cables somehow got swapped and changing my battery. Moping around thinking I fried my computer, going through all the diagnostic codes and reading what they meant. I found this post. My etv fuse was in the main fuse box up by the bars. Changed it out with the spare good to go. My wife says thanks to you guys I’m down being a little crybaby. Lol so thanks from her and me.
 

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Hey guys, I am going to make my first real post on here regarding a Solved Problem on my 09 raven r1, but first I have to thank Emry, and everyone else on here for adding high quality info to this forum.

I have a Raven that I bought brand new here in TX, and was hit by a drunk driver(in my truck) shortly after- broke my neck, and spent the last 2 years picking up the pieces & getting back to normal while the bike sat in storage on a battery tender the entire time.

During the 2 years it sat, 2 batteries were ruined by a what I know know was a faulty battery tender, and when I spoke to my man at the Dealer, he helped me swap out the tender, and felt bad that I was on my 3rd battery w/<300 miles, so he recommended that I try a New brand of Gel battery that was less expensive but still high in quality.

The bike has 275 miles on it, only mods are racing baffles & HID's, which have been unhooked during storage(just in case of constant draw). I got the battery home, I slid it in place, and went to connect pos/neg leads... when I saw 1 spark, I stopped to investigate and realized that this new brands battery terminals are BACKWARDS in position compared to the factory gel cell, I completely missed what I would consider Obvious Danger because the leads on my bike are ran in such a way that the positive lead was only just barely long enough to reach the previous battery's pos terminal, and the same thing goes for the neg lead.

As soon as I saw the spark, I realized wtf I had done and went to checking fuses. After replacing the Main Fuse, and visualizing checking others, I moved on to unbolting the battery box, topside fairings, zip ties and etc in order to re-route both battery leads. After a couple hours of finagling I was able to find a position that wouldnt rub off the insulation over time, and got the new battery hooked up correctly without having to extend the wires themselves.

Turned it over and over and it wouldnt start. Then it would start, but only Idle, and it sounded it was only running on 2 cylinders, and I had Zero throttle response, and the throttle gauge would bearly register when I gave it gas sometimes, then others it woudnt respond at all- but in both cases the engine never responded and stayed stuck at rough idle. The Exhaust was Dumping fuel. I tried letting it warm up, thinking if it was spark plugs maybe they'd wear/warm in a bit and burn off any old residue I thought it was possible that I had some old fuel, or maybe gummed up sparks from trying to start it unsuccessfully so many times, or maybe the racing baffles were confusing the o2 sensor after sitting for such a long time, etc..

The manual for the bike is in 1 of a hundred boxes in storage along with the bike, after a couple hours of pointless unpacking I decided to walk away for a while, and logged in here to search for common issues. I was originally trying to find out where the OBD2 plug was at(or whatever bikes had) in order to check for codes, and read a thread where someone mentioned that the ACTUAL CODE # itself will show up on the Dash. CODE 60!

I found quite a few code 60s on here, talking about burnt ECU's, throttle sensors, and etc; all from people who had crossed the terminals for one reason or another- and plenty of expensive and time consuming ways to "rule" out one fried part or another. Just before I went to give up and plan to have the embarrassing experience of letting the dealer handle it and empty my wallet there, I came across this 1 part of 1 single thread that solved my problem"



The ETV is a 7.5v mini bus fuse that, on my particular bike, was in a small black housing with several other fuses, and was routed underneath the battery box & basically Hidden from access. Sure enough, the ETV was burnt, I popped a new one in- the code cleared immediatly & the bike runs like the Beast I meant it to be. Whoever ran the harness on my bike must have been a little hung over, OR have just given his 2 weeks notice.

Just wanted to say thanks for the good knowledge here, hopefully this long and ridiculously descriptive post will help the next poor sap who changes batteries and gets a Code60. If the wires arent long enough to be hooked up any other way, and ran in such a way that it tricks your brain into not doublechecking... man, I consider myself extremely mechanically inclined, but hell- its bound to happen to others. At least this way there will be a solution at the top of the Search list, and help avoid any of us looking Ultra Stupid when the dealer calls you back to say that you towed the bike to them for a fuse. The only thing I think that could have prevented this is if my dealers' parts mgr would have warned me that the terminals where reversed in the first place. Come to find out that Even he didnt notice they were reversed, and he would've done the same thing. Thanks for the Space

Matt
You are a Life Saver!! I blew the main fuse and then moved on to this issue where I was able to start it and it just showed a code 60! I was lucky, my 09 R1 had a spare 7.5A fuse in the fuse box, but I would never have guessed it. Would have been pulling fuses everywhere or eventually having it hauled to the dealer for a costly diagnostic & repair. Thanks Again Matt!!
 
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