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6 Posts
Hey guys, I am going to make my first real post on here regarding a Solved Problem on my 09 raven r1, but first I have to thank Emry, and everyone else on here for adding high quality info to this forum.
I have a Raven that I bought brand new here in TX, and was hit by a drunk driver(in my truck) shortly after- broke my neck, and spent the last 2 years picking up the pieces & getting back to normal while the bike sat in storage on a battery tender the entire time.
During the 2 years it sat, 2 batteries were ruined by a what I know know was a faulty battery tender, and when I spoke to my man at the Dealer, he helped me swap out the tender, and felt bad that I was on my 3rd battery w/<300 miles, so he recommended that I try a New brand of Gel battery that was less expensive but still high in quality.
The bike has 275 miles on it, only mods are racing baffles & HID's, which have been unhooked during storage(just in case of constant draw). I got the battery home, I slid it in place, and went to connect pos/neg leads... when I saw 1 spark, I stopped to investigate and realized that this new brands battery terminals are BACKWARDS in position compared to the factory gel cell, I completely missed what I would consider Obvious Danger because the leads on my bike are ran in such a way that the positive lead was only just barely long enough to reach the previous battery's pos terminal, and the same thing goes for the neg lead.
As soon as I saw the spark, I realized wtf I had done and went to checking fuses. After replacing the Main Fuse, and visualizing checking others, I moved on to unbolting the battery box, topside fairings, zip ties and etc in order to re-route both battery leads. After a couple hours of finagling I was able to find a position that wouldnt rub off the insulation over time, and got the new battery hooked up correctly without having to extend the wires themselves.
Turned it over and over and it wouldnt start. Then it would start, but only Idle, and it sounded it was only running on 2 cylinders, and I had Zero throttle response, and the throttle gauge would bearly register when I gave it gas sometimes, then others it woudnt respond at all- but in both cases the engine never responded and stayed stuck at rough idle. The Exhaust was Dumping fuel. I tried letting it warm up, thinking if it was spark plugs maybe they'd wear/warm in a bit and burn off any old residue I thought it was possible that I had some old fuel, or maybe gummed up sparks from trying to start it unsuccessfully so many times, or maybe the racing baffles were confusing the o2 sensor after sitting for such a long time, etc..
The manual for the bike is in 1 of a hundred boxes in storage along with the bike, after a couple hours of pointless unpacking I decided to walk away for a while, and logged in here to search for common issues. I was originally trying to find out where the OBD2 plug was at(or whatever bikes had) in order to check for codes, and read a thread where someone mentioned that the ACTUAL CODE # itself will show up on the Dash. CODE 60!
I found quite a few code 60s on here, talking about burnt ECU's, throttle sensors, and etc; all from people who had crossed the terminals for one reason or another- and plenty of expensive and time consuming ways to "rule" out one fried part or another. Just before I went to give up and plan to have the embarrassing experience of letting the dealer handle it and empty my wallet there, I came across this 1 part of 1 single thread that solved my problem"
Just wanted to say thanks for the good knowledge here, hopefully this long and ridiculously descriptive post will help the next poor sap who changes batteries and gets a Code60. If the wires arent long enough to be hooked up any other way, and ran in such a way that it tricks your brain into not doublechecking... man, I consider myself extremely mechanically inclined, but hell- its bound to happen to others. At least this way there will be a solution at the top of the Search list, and help avoid any of us looking Ultra Stupid when the dealer calls you back to say that you towed the bike to them for a fuse. The only thing I think that could have prevented this is if my dealers' parts mgr would have warned me that the terminals where reversed in the first place. Come to find out that Even he didnt notice they were reversed, and he would've done the same thing. Thanks for the Space
Matt
I have a Raven that I bought brand new here in TX, and was hit by a drunk driver(in my truck) shortly after- broke my neck, and spent the last 2 years picking up the pieces & getting back to normal while the bike sat in storage on a battery tender the entire time.
During the 2 years it sat, 2 batteries were ruined by a what I know know was a faulty battery tender, and when I spoke to my man at the Dealer, he helped me swap out the tender, and felt bad that I was on my 3rd battery w/<300 miles, so he recommended that I try a New brand of Gel battery that was less expensive but still high in quality.
The bike has 275 miles on it, only mods are racing baffles & HID's, which have been unhooked during storage(just in case of constant draw). I got the battery home, I slid it in place, and went to connect pos/neg leads... when I saw 1 spark, I stopped to investigate and realized that this new brands battery terminals are BACKWARDS in position compared to the factory gel cell, I completely missed what I would consider Obvious Danger because the leads on my bike are ran in such a way that the positive lead was only just barely long enough to reach the previous battery's pos terminal, and the same thing goes for the neg lead.
As soon as I saw the spark, I realized wtf I had done and went to checking fuses. After replacing the Main Fuse, and visualizing checking others, I moved on to unbolting the battery box, topside fairings, zip ties and etc in order to re-route both battery leads. After a couple hours of finagling I was able to find a position that wouldnt rub off the insulation over time, and got the new battery hooked up correctly without having to extend the wires themselves.
Turned it over and over and it wouldnt start. Then it would start, but only Idle, and it sounded it was only running on 2 cylinders, and I had Zero throttle response, and the throttle gauge would bearly register when I gave it gas sometimes, then others it woudnt respond at all- but in both cases the engine never responded and stayed stuck at rough idle. The Exhaust was Dumping fuel. I tried letting it warm up, thinking if it was spark plugs maybe they'd wear/warm in a bit and burn off any old residue I thought it was possible that I had some old fuel, or maybe gummed up sparks from trying to start it unsuccessfully so many times, or maybe the racing baffles were confusing the o2 sensor after sitting for such a long time, etc..
The manual for the bike is in 1 of a hundred boxes in storage along with the bike, after a couple hours of pointless unpacking I decided to walk away for a while, and logged in here to search for common issues. I was originally trying to find out where the OBD2 plug was at(or whatever bikes had) in order to check for codes, and read a thread where someone mentioned that the ACTUAL CODE # itself will show up on the Dash. CODE 60!
I found quite a few code 60s on here, talking about burnt ECU's, throttle sensors, and etc; all from people who had crossed the terminals for one reason or another- and plenty of expensive and time consuming ways to "rule" out one fried part or another. Just before I went to give up and plan to have the embarrassing experience of letting the dealer handle it and empty my wallet there, I came across this 1 part of 1 single thread that solved my problem"
The ETV is a 7.5v mini bus fuse that, on my particular bike, was in a small black housing with several other fuses, and was routed underneath the battery box & basically Hidden from access. Sure enough, the ETV was burnt, I popped a new one in- the code cleared immediatly & the bike runs like the Beast I meant it to be. Whoever ran the harness on my bike must have been a little hung over, OR have just given his 2 weeks notice.
Just wanted to say thanks for the good knowledge here, hopefully this long and ridiculously descriptive post will help the next poor sap who changes batteries and gets a Code60. If the wires arent long enough to be hooked up any other way, and ran in such a way that it tricks your brain into not doublechecking... man, I consider myself extremely mechanically inclined, but hell- its bound to happen to others. At least this way there will be a solution at the top of the Search list, and help avoid any of us looking Ultra Stupid when the dealer calls you back to say that you towed the bike to them for a fuse. The only thing I think that could have prevented this is if my dealers' parts mgr would have warned me that the terminals where reversed in the first place. Come to find out that Even he didnt notice they were reversed, and he would've done the same thing. Thanks for the Space
Matt
