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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

Just got a 2004 R1. It's low mileage with some tasty mods - full Akrapovic and decat, Power Commander 3, Gilles Rearsets. Supercorsa SP's. Carbon side panels below the tank. It's even got a lithium battery although I think it's a cheap one and it's got it's own opinions about when it will crank!

I've had a 2016 Fireblade SP before so this isn't my first litre bike, but my 'blade was totally standard, so felt relatively tame to ride. This R1 is considerably more intense!!

There's a few things I'm looking at changing - possibly getting a bespoke map on the Power Commander, and ideally getting a speedo healer and a gear indicator fitted too. Look forward to having a chat!

Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Fuel tank
 

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Welcome to the forum. The '04 is a nice bike. Ride safe...
 
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Horsepower whisperer
2022 Yamaha YZF-R1 60th WGP Anniversary Edition
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Best color ever.
 
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2004 owner here with 60+k miles on my R1, but i bought it when it had 9k... so only 50k of those miles are mine. I never understood the need for a gear indicator. Instead of doing all that sh*t that you don't need, this is what I would do:

1 - Replace the stator generator. The stock part for this generation of motorcycle has magnets that are held in place with plastic and glue. It will fail. The only question is when and where. Mine gave up the ghost and stopped charging the battery while I was on the highway going through a not great part of town. I pushed my motorcycle 4 miles to get it to a secure spot to make sure it wouldn't get stolen. Yamaha sells a redesigned part. The fix isn't difficult, but if done incorrectly (there are some parts that can drop inside the oil pan when putting the new one in) then the fix does involve dismantling the exhaust so that you can drop the oil pan. Keep in mind that when the original part does go you will 100% have to drop the oil pan and clean bits of the old stator/generator out of it.

2 - Inspect the wiring harness for the headlights and dash cluster. These get old and start to let moisture in (i.e. rain). Then they corrode, let electricity arc, partially melt the harness and finally break the circuit connection. If it looks good then I would wrap it with whatever waterproofing material or tape that you have available. Replacing it is a pain in the ass. It is less work to splice/solder new connections for any contacts that get too rusted

3 - Do a cursory check to make sure that none of the wires by the wrong are unsecured and can get in the way of the radiator fan. Lots of posts on here regarding the fan slicing through them

4 - Be prepared to have to fix or replace parts of the coolant system if they haven't already been. The thermostat housing is plastic and possibly warped or leaking (I use RTV silicone to seal mine up if I ever open it), and the hard plastic tube that runs under the mid fairing on the right will eventually crack and leak with age/heat cycles/stress

5 - Also be prepared to eventually replace the starter motor. They also contain glued magnets. I am on my third. Its not a critical fix, but its one of the 3 places to check if/when you start having issues starting the bike.

My bike has lived outside for most of its life, and it has served as an all season, all weather commuter for a couple of years so I have had to perform more maintenance than most. I am very happy with the reliability. Enjoy
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the positive comments and maintenance help guys, really appreciate it. I'm really happy with this bike.

Over the last few months I've swapped a Street Triple 765RS for a VFR800 and the R1. The R1 is 3 years older than the VFR yet feels much newer. The VFR is quite niggly and annoying - it has various minor running issues. The R1 runs awesome, everything is so tight.

I've changed the brake fluid on the R1 but am now going to just ride it and enjoy it for the rest of the season, don't want to start messing about with it until I've got the Honda sorted.
 
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