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Omg. We were mislead. When you sonic cleaned the carb bank, who knew you didn’t tear them down properly.
that’s like overhauling the engine in your automobile without removing the hood.
who does that??
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Omg. We were mislead. When you sonic cleaned the carb bank, who knew you didn’t tear them down properly.
that’s like overhauling the engine in your automobile without removing the hood.
who does that??
Hi WhyzeeF,
Hope you are well,
All I did was send the carbs of to be cleaned I didn’t do it myself, and from what the guy told me that a lot of companies that do sonic cleaning don’t tear them down and rely on the fluid getting into the nooks and crannies,
Overall there was a few bits wrong like the float heights/mixture settings was all wrong and the valves being on the tight side all of which was diagnosed by you guys on here, going forward knowing what I know now and having removed the carbs and replaced them I would be confident tearing them down and cleaning them thanks to a few posts on here, I suppose the only thing stopping me doing it was the leak down test and it made sense for them to crack on with the rest whilst it was in there, next time.. yeh!! I know what to do regarding maintenance of the carbs etc..
Sorry if I may have misled you but I’m a complete noob 👍
 

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No worries Brother. We were all noobs once. Everyone has a different level of mechanical aptitude/ability, so there is no shame in hiring a mechanic to do the work. The shame lies with the mechanic who ‘sonic’ cleaned your bank of carbs without tearing them down. How did he expect the particles to come out of the float bowls, through the overflow or vent holes? All is well here , I took my 01 R1 and my 19 Duke 390 out for short rides today, if for nothing more than to hear them run again. It’s still winter here.
hope all is well with you too!
 

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Discussion Starter #44
No worries Brother. We were all noobs once. Everyone has a different level of mechanical aptitude/ability, so there is no shame in hiring a mechanic to do the work. The shame lies with the mechanic who ‘sonic’ cleaned your bank of carbs without tearing them down. How did he expect the particles to come out of the float bowls, through the overflow or vent holes? All is well here , I took my 01 R1 and my 19 Duke 390 out for short rides today, if for nothing more than to hear them run again. It’s still winter here.
hope all is well with you too!
Cheers for that, where are you ?
 

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Good to hear your bike runs well. I have the same exact bike as you, a Model Year 2000, same paint scheme. My bike has 26k miles on it, and it runs perfect. These bikes don't like to sit for too long (3-4 months). The only problem I have ever had with my bike, is after having it sit for too long, was the float bowls would overflow. I figured out how to easily fix it on my own. It turns out that on these bikes, if you let it sit too long, the needle valves inside the float bowls don't properly seat themselves, actually the needle valve seats.

I simply removed the gas tank and hook up a fuel line from the fuel filter to an external gas can. I put a small amount of gas in the can, with Chevron fuel injector cleaner. I use a ratio of cleaner to gas that is higher than what is recommended. The recommendation is one ounce per gallon of gas, but I triple that. Once the motor starts to run well, I remove the external gas can, and put the bike back together.

I have had this same bike since 2008. When the float bowls overfull, gas will gush out of the overflow. Maybe someday I'll replace all of the needle valve seats, but as for now, it runs absolutely perfect.

Btw, the Yamaha service manual states that the valves don't need to be adjusted until 26k miles. My bike now has 26k miles, the valves have never been adjusted, and it runs just as perfect as it did when I got it in 2008, although it'll probably have to be torn down someday. It had 3.8k miles on it when I got it. Right after I bought it, I found out that the carbs were not seated properly, so I loosened the clamps, pushed down on the assembly, then tightened it back up. Other than that, I have had to run fuel injector cleaner & gas from an external gas can a small handful of times over the last 12 years.

I ride around Lake County California, up and down Cobb Mountain, and Soda Bay Road around the Southern part of the lake.


Ride safe


Tony
 

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Bro, lash your valves, clean and sync your carbs and thank me later. You think it runs good now, it's gonna surprise you.
 

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I think the injector cleaner may be some good advice.
basically ethanol gasoline, or any of today’s pump gasoline is garbage gas. carburetors do not like to sit long with this junk in the bowls.
on my 5JJ I treat the fuel with Sta-bil for the winter months when I am not riding. This does not mean that I let it sit around for 4-5 months without starting it. I start it up monthly and ride it around for a bit If the weather/ground allows.
Then the petcock gets Turned off again until the next time.
carbs were synced a couple years ago.
2001 with 6600 miles and runs/smells just like the day it was new 20+ years ago
 

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Bro, lash your valves, clean and sync your carbs and thank me later. You think it runs good now, it's gonna surprise you.
The carbs do need to be synced. A valve adjustment on this bike is a lot of work, I can't do it right now.
 

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What is the point of doing a sync if you don't lash. It's part of the procedure.

I know it's some work, but it ain't so bad. Pull the motor, jerk the timing cover and valve cover, get in there with a set of feelers. Write the values down, select new shims, pull your buckets, replace the out of spec shims, use you're assembly lube, re install the cams, verify timing, button her up. Put the motor back in.

It takes a little effort, but it's better than a burnt valve. I usually do a leakdown test first and see if I need to lap any of the valves in, but, I'm paranoid. I've also been known to pull the valves and verify their dimensions, but, I usually do that on something high mileage because I think that one or more are out of spec.

Point I'm making is, if you're going to sync the carbs, you should at least measure your valves. They may not need adjustment, but pulling the motor is just a couple connectors and a couple of motor mounts. It's honestly not that much harder than pulling a bank of carbs. So why not do it right?

You could also always use the opportunity to degree your cams if you get some adjustable cam gears. Factory stuff is close, but there is always room for improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Good to hear your bike runs well. I have the same exact bike as you, a Model Year 2000, same paint scheme. My bike has 26k miles on it, and it runs perfect. These bikes don't like to sit for too long (3-4 months). The only problem I have ever had with my bike, is after having it sit for too long, was the float bowls would overflow. I figured out how to easily fix it on my own. It turns out that on these bikes, if you let it sit too long, the needle valves inside the float bowls don't properly seat themselves, actually the needle valve seats.

I simply removed the gas tank and hook up a fuel line from the fuel filter to an external gas can. I put a small amount of gas in the can, with Chevron fuel injector cleaner. I use a ratio of cleaner to gas that is higher than what is recommended. The recommendation is one ounce per gallon of gas, but I triple that. Once the motor starts to run well, I remove the external gas can, and put the bike back together.

I have had this same bike since 2008. When the float bowls overfull, gas will gush out of the overflow. Maybe someday I'll replace all of the needle valve seats, but as for now, it runs absolutely perfect.

Btw, the Yamaha service manual states that the valves don't need to be adjusted until 26k miles. My bike now has 26k miles, the valves have never been adjusted, and it runs just as perfect as it did when I got it in 2008, although it'll probably have to be torn down someday. It had 3.8k miles on it when I got it. Right after I bought it, I found out that the carbs were not seated properly, so I loosened the clamps, pushed down on the assembly, then tightened it back up. Other than that, I have had to run fuel injector cleaner & gas from an external gas can a small handful of times over the last 12 years.

I ride around Lake County California, up and down Cobb Mountain, and Soda Bay Road around the Southern part of the lake.


Ride safe


Tony
Hi Mr D,
I know it’s a huge weight off my mind.. I did assume the worst !!
Like I mentioned earlier getting the carbs on and off wasn’t an issue the float screws were the issue... nightmare!! Then at that point having been on here and consulted you chaps on here and numbers mentioned a leak down test.. I just thought let’s get it in the shop and then go from there.. overall next time round having read a thread on part removal in Oder to get at the jets etc I believe it’s we’ll within my skill set.. not only that getting the bike in dynotech they tuned it and set everything up perfectly so it’s a base to keep to
On the subject of fuel and having researched it.... Ethanol is no fried of carburettors and in particular fuel tanks, here in the uk they will be making E10 the base and then E5 the premium which is not good,
I tried that method with sea foam having read another thread who had the same issue as I had running on three cylinders.. didn’t unblock it because it was to clogged up, but intend to do it regularly just to keep it free I will start her up regularly just to keep the carbs flowing !!
Thanks Mr D 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I think the injector cleaner may be some good advice.
basically ethanol gasoline, or any of today’s pump gasoline is garbage gas. carburetors do not like to sit long with this junk in the bowls.
on my 5JJ I treat the fuel with Sta-bil for the winter months when I am not riding. This does not mean that I let it sit around for 4-5 months without starting it. I start it up monthly and ride it around for a bit If the weather/ground allows.
Then the petcock gets Turned off again until the next time.
carbs were synced a couple years ago.
2001 with 6600 miles and runs/smells just like the day it was new 20+ years ago
He WyzeeF
I completely agree about the injector cleaner it’s got to be a part of the regular maintenance especially either garbage they sell at the pumps, especially here I’m not sure about across the pond where you are, but ye totally agree !!
 

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Discussion Starter #53
What is the point of doing a sync if you don't lash. It's part of the procedure.

I know it's some work, but it ain't so bad. Pull the motor, jerk the timing cover and valve cover, get in there with a set of feelers. Write the values down, select new shims, pull your buckets, replace the out of spec shims, use you're assembly lube, re install the cams, verify timing, button her up. Put the motor back in.

It takes a little effort, but it's better than a burnt valve. I usually do a leakdown test first and see if I need to lap any of the valves in, but, I'm paranoid. I've also been known to pull the valves and verify their dimensions, but, I usually do that on something high mileage because I think that one or more are out of spec.

Point I'm making is, if you're going to sync the carbs, you should at least measure your valves. They may not need adjustment, but pulling the motor is just a couple connectors and a couple of motor mounts. It's honestly not that much harder than pulling a bank of carbs. So why not do it right?

You could also always use the opportunity to degree your cams if you get some adjustable cam gears. Factory stuff is close, but there is always room for improvement.
Hi Numbers,
All I can say is that I’m nodding my head and pretending I understood everything you said 😂
But I think that lashing the valves is beyond my capabilities but I get the message... prevention is better than the cure and I think a hell of a lot cheaper 👍
 

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Hi Numbers,
All I can say is that I’m nodding my head and pretending I understood everything you said 😂
But I think that lashing the valves is beyond my capabilities but I get the message... prevention is better than the cure and I think a hell of a lot cheaper 👍
That was directed at Racer Dude. He said he needed to sync them but wasn't going to do his valves. Before doing a sync, you should lash the valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
That was directed at Racer Dude. He said he needed to sync them but wasn't going to do his valves. Before doing a sync, you should lash the valves.
Whilst I’ve got you.. how much coolant will I need for a flush, is 2 litres pre mix ok ?
 

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Yamacool. I need another liter to do my wr250f. Dealer was out of stock last week.
 
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