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You don't sound like an idiot but I'll ask anyways, your not overflowing the coolant reservoir are you? It's only supposed to be halfway full to the cold line. So your saying from there it's filling it the rest of the way up then overflowing onto the ground? If that's the case then you need to stop riding it and figure out if that pumps working. If it isn't then it's possible your reading a temperature on the gauge and it's actually higher and uneven in other parts of the engine. I would hate to see a water pump lead to a cracked head.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
No on over filling the reservoir. It’s boiling out past the radiator cap when the coolant temperature gets somewhere in the neighborhood of 230° or so. Basically doing what it’s designed to do. So yes, at this point there won’t be any more riding until I get a look at the water pump. Might be a while but I’ll keep this thread updated for sure.

Also yes. I replaced the thermostat and initially it leaked. So I fixed that right away and it’s not leaking anymore.
 

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I dont think it is this but if you have a tune on the bike, the person tuning it could have changed the parameters of when the fans cut on. Mine is set to come on early at 190 degrees so by the time time the bike hits around 209 it is coming back down the only down side is your fans run alot in higher temperature weather. So if your fans come on at 212 you can expect another 10 to fifteen or possibly 20 degree top out before they start to come back down. I hope this helps. I will talk to Brian Livengood on Saturday when we do the static sag adjustment on my bike and see if has any suggestions.
 

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I dont think it is this but if you have a tune on the bike, the person tuning it could have changed the parameters of when the fans cut on. Mine is set to come on early at 190 degrees so by the time time the bike hits around 209 it is coming back down the only down side is your fans run alot in higher temperature weather. So if your fans come on at 212 you can expect another 10 to fifteen or possibly 20 degree top out before they start to come back down. I hope this helps. I will talk to Brian Livengood on Saturday when we do the static sag adjustment on my bike and see if he has any suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
No custom tune. It does have a Power Commander V with whatever generic map they recommended when I bought it based on my exhaust mods and K&N filter. No change in fan on-off temperature though.
 

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Since we have been talking I was watching when my fans cut on. Mine cut on about 190 it gets up to about 208 and then starts to come down. You usually add a PC to fine tune your AFT after you you have flashed the ecu. That way you will get the perfect tune out of it. I will talk to Brian about it and see what he says though. Just give me a list of everything you have done already.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
My first post is pretty descriptive. Read that for the symptoms. New thermostat and new radiator cap is about all I’ve tried since the problem started.

System is as clean as possible givin my rebuild about 5-6 years ago and only a couple thousand miles since. Only water/water wetter for a couple seasons and Engine Ice for the rest of the time have been in this system since the rebuild. Only really used it for track days here and there after the rebuild, save about 1,000 miles right after the rebuild for break in and only 500 or so street miles the last 3-4 months.

Also note. It’s been stored in a heated/air conditioned environment the entire time it’s not been ridden.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I talked to Brian he was curious if you have done a pressure test on the cooling system.
No. Have not. Don’t currently own the stuff to do that but if it’s reasonable I wouldn’t mind giving it a try first. What’s the line of thought? Checking for leaks I’m assuming?
 

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Yes but not only will it check for leaks it will also tell you if the head gasket is bad. I dont know where you live I would definitely take it to a high performance motorcycle shop, or a reputable motorcycle dealership with service center might be able to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I’d probably just do it myself. I don’t take stuff anywhere to be worked on. I completely rebuilt the engine myself so givin enough time I can do anything. I’ll check into a pressure test before tearing into a water pump inspection. Thanks for the info/research.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I’m assuming it’s just a pressure port with gauge type deal that you pump air pressure into. Takes place of the radiator cap maybe? Any links to a good kit to own or suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #37

Found this gem from 2012. Sounds exactly like my problem. Ended up being a head gasket that passed a leak down test if you don’t want to read thru all 80 posts.

How in the F could it be my head gasket? I know damn well I followed the manual to a T with a torque wrench and everything. And it’s been fine for 3,000 miles? What the f?

All that is completely rhetorical of course. Bad shit happens all the time so I don’t really need an answer to the why me whining but damn. I’m almost thinking replacing the head gasket should be my next move. Even before checking the water pump. Seems more and more likely...
 

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When you do the leak down and you aren't seeing any obvious signs of it leaking that is when the culprit is very highly likely your head gasket.
 
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