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The Intern
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2,410 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in a mood to repaint my race bodywork. I have never done it before, and wonder if there are people on here that could give me a bunch of info on everything I would need to know to do this right. I have an extra tail section I will practice on.
The info I am talking about is:
Prep
paint types
gun types
prepping paint
prepping guns
spraying
spray process (how to spray, layers, time to wait, etc)
finishing paint (clear coat)
finishing paint process (anything else I missed)

So I am in need of a lot of info. Hope there is someone on here that could provide me with the info.
I am going to build a paint booth. Wont be a super pro one, but will have air cleaning system in it, etc.
have a compressor. Looking for guns now as well.

Thanks for any help in advance.
 

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Cracka' What!
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591 Posts
Are you going to repaint the R6? Looks pretty good right now. To bad you're not up in Dallas otherwise I would give you a hand.

For a track bike, rattle can is the way to go. It might not look as nice, but when you have to make a repair you don't have to set up (and clean up) all your paint gear for a touch-up.
 

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Cracka' What!
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591 Posts
You saw the R1. It came out pretty good for a can job.

Here is what it looked like when I picked it up:


Then to this:


A while later:


And Back to this (same bodywork - just repaired):


Even though this is a rattle-can job, I'm pretty handy with a "real" paint gun. I'm happy to walk you through the process, but just assume do it over the phone to save typing. Give me a call if you want, you have my cell #.
 

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99 R1 Track `Weapon`
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36 Posts
^ Nice to see another 1st gen in race trim. I wish I had a lot of knowledge on the subject as I did paint my own bike. A pal that paints did the mixing/painting and I did the prep. Though when you have everything set it's not bad at all. I just followed his intructions. We did the gun and auto paint, otherwise it would have been rattle can all the way.


 

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The Intern
Joined
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2,410 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You saw the R1. It came out pretty good for a can job.

Here is what it looked like when I picked it up:


...


Even though this is a rattle-can job, I'm pretty handy with a "real" paint gun. I'm happy to walk you through the process, but just assume do it over the phone to save typing. Give me a call if you want, you have my cell #.

Yeah, I want to repaint since it has a few scratches and I will have a vacation coming up starting Dec 17 until new year.
So I thought, why not. I will be sanding and prepping the surface soon. Already doing it for the spare tail section.
As to the can job, it does look nice. I just have the itch to do this more for the sake of learning than necessity. Thinking of same paint scheme (red darker and more metallic and same for silver - more silver and more metallic).
Good to know you have some knowledge on this. may pick your brain. Tx.
 

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Cracka' What!
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591 Posts
Yeah, I want to repaint since it has a few scratches and I will have a vacation coming up starting Dec 17 until new year.
So I thought, why not. I will be sanding and prepping the surface soon. Already doing it for the spare tail section.
As to the can job, it does look nice. I just have the itch to do this more for the sake of learning than necessity. Thinking of same paint scheme (red darker and more metallic and same for silver - more silver and more metallic).
Good to know you have some knowledge on this. may pick your brain. Tx.
Sounds like a plan! The prep work is the most important thing! On fiberglass bodywork, be sure to use a high-build primer to help prevent print-through. Apply multiple coats and wetsand with a block where possible.

PPG is the best paint (unless you want crazy metal flake and candy), but you can also buy paint kits from duplicolor. They include Primer, Base, and Clear resonably priced. You can order it through autozone. If they have your colors that might be a good option. With a kit, you don't have to worry about compatability and the paint is already reduced and ready to shoot.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/paintshop.html
 

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The Intern
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2,410 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks man. I was thinking of painting it some real nice metallic deep red (top and tail), and some quick silver (mercury type reflective metallic) for the lower. Kind of keep similar scheme but changed a bit. How much do you think it will cost for the paint for the bike + extra tail section?
Also, where would I have to go to see samples so I can choose colors.
tx.
 

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Banned
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561 Posts
Well, I painted my race glass in April. the plastics came in the box black primer. I wanted a white base so the blue would be a little brighter. So I rattle can primered it white. Wet sanded 220 then 400. bought a gravity feed auto paint gun on ebay brand new for $20. I went to Tri-city paint (auto paint store) and brought my stock front fender to them to color match ($40 to match) I used SINGLE STAGE PAINT which mixes the clear coat and paint into one can. This is cheaper than TWO stage paint and still looks great. You can still have metallic paint in single stage (I did). The paint cost $129 (including the color match fee). I got 1 pint. That was enough for 2 coats for all my plastics. I still have enough left to do 2 more coats on my next set after I BIN this set. Remember you still mix it with reducer. The paint shop will give you a sheet and mixing cups and give you the right ratio for how much reducer to add.

Before you start spraying your plastics, dial in the gun on a peice of cardboard so it doesnt spatter and has a nice spray. spray about 12" away.

I waited about 25 minutes between each coat. Make sure you use paint tape to do all your taping. DONT TAKE THE TAPE OFF WHEN ITS WET!! Make sure the paint is tacky before you pull the tape.

I used coat hangers straightened out to hang the plastics so I didnt have to use my hands to hold it. Make sure you get a real resperator instead of the cheezy paper filters for your mouth. It really helps. Again. Ebay. I think the resperator was more than the gun. Guns are SUPER cheap for some reason on Ebay and work great.

If I left anything out let me know. Here is a couple of pics.

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Convention main man
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14,187 Posts
Looks like you are getting some good info here. Doing your own paint is a huge learing process for sure, but it is a good process. Can be frustrating at times though. If you ever get in a hurry you are going to screw up, so be patient.

The most thing to remember is prep is everything. You have to always rough up anything you are going to paint, if you don't the paint won't stick. If you are just painting over something you can sometimes get away with red scotchbrite pad. If it is primered or has scratches or rough spots you need to wetsand it to knock all that down. Once you have done that you need to get a tack rag and go over lightly to make sure you get any lint etc. off before you spray. If you are taping anything make darn sure everything is stuck good and anything you don't want painted is fully covered up...if it isn't the paint will find it, trust me, I know, lol.

usually you want to do a color per day, you don't have to but that gives it time to completely dry so you can tape over it. Single stage is easy but everything doesn't come in single stage, especially if you want a certain match. I have been using PPG products. For race bodywork you can use their "shop line" it is much less expensive and it matches just as good as the PPG DBC brand. dual stage is just basecoat then clearcoat. PPG does have the Yamaha blue. the code is 4798 if you want that. a quart of shop line is like 35 bucks. quart of the DBC is over 100, that gives you an idea of prices.

There is also a certain technique to painting so that you cover it well and not get it to run. it comes with practice.

You can do the clearcoat right after you do your final basecoat. that isn't a big deal. You need to wait at least a day to handle the clear though after you paint it. a good rule of thumb for how long to wait between spraying clear coats is find a spot that you can touch and if it is stringy, wait, if it is sticky, spray...if is already dry...you have to start over. Clear drys fast so you can screw around with it. and it also goes on very heavy compared to basecoat...but you don't want to run it either.

Something to remember is once something is covered you are done...more paint doesn't do anything else, but you need to make sure it is covered.

There are lots of things to find out like your pressures for air, it can't flucuate.


Here are a couple of my race bikes I have painted.
 

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