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An STM slipper clutch might be worth a look. I've also found a couple of places offering a yoyodyne. I'm definitely looking into the clutch myself because it is a weak point. Then again, the titanium valves are finicky and as stated so is the oil pump. I've got a fresh pump on the shelf, waiting, hopefully I can catch it when it fails and shut it down before I spin something. This might not be the best model. When I get rid of it I'm eyeing either an '06 or a '14. '07-'08 seems like an odd duck out of the lineup. Shortest iteration by far. Parts can be like hen's teeth too.

I've got a thread open about clutch options, not much has been said though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Pleasure, no guarantee its the clutch but it is worth a check. Just be careful when putting the cover back on, it can be a hassle to hook the clutch actuator up correctly. In terms of clutch parts, I would stay OEM. You can play around with springs depending on what you want, but OEM worked for me. The OEM clutch items also come pre-oiled if I remember correctly.
Awesome thanks. Sounds like it’s worth at least tearing apart and having a look. I’m sure that if it’s my problem, I will see something visibly wrong in there.
 

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The 2007/8 models are quite cool actually, most power and lightest weigh up until the 2015 model. The biggest issues with the 07/08 are the rotor (alternator), titanium intake valve #3 (LOL), clutches, idle issue (fixed with TB sync) and the 5,500RPM dead spot in the ECU (fixed by ignoring it).

That being said, have you replaced your rotor yet? Mine popped in the driveway with no damage, the metal fragments probably blew my oil pump later on as I could not get it all out. My friend's popped on the highway, engine was toast. The 2007 model has small magnets glued in place in the rotor, fixed from 08 onwards with an internal ring to hold the magnets in place.

The aftermarket clutches you mention ought to be fine, but I read somewhere that they make the lever heavy. Let me know what you see once you open the clutch, and best of luck.
 

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I forgot about the glue for the magnets in the stator failing. Mine hasn't failed yet. My clutch sounds like it is chewing rocks though, so I'm more concerned with the clutch. It's time to do the valves as well, so I'm going to get in it when I jerk the motor to lash the valves. Should probably replace the stator while I'm in there.
 

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I forgot about the glue for the magnets in the stator failing. Mine hasn't failed yet. My clutch sounds like it is chewing rocks though, so I'm more concerned with the clutch. It's time to do the valves as well, so I'm going to get in it when I jerk the motor to lash the valves. Should probably replace the stator while I'm in there.
I only did my valves at 80'k and it made the world's difference. Bike loses power over time, and after the valve job it started lifting the front again in 2nd gear.

I did not pull the motor, I took off the radiator (let it hang) and the fairings on the side and bottom. Hardest was to pull the valve cover, as the gasket can get caught, that's how I pinched mine so on the test run I had oil everywhere. Also took off the smog system to access the valves. The intake valves were perfect, exhaust ones were tight. Getting the timing right was a mission as the chain hops teeth very easily.

The stator is also a mission as it has magnets that pull it in quite strongly and then it messes up alignment and the gasket. And those rubber things want to fall in the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I have not changed the rotor, and I doubt the previous owner would have. Do you think that could be related to my issue or is this more of a suggestion to avoid problems down the line?
Edit: i will post back once I have it apart!
 

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I always jerk the engine on sportbikes to lash valves. Just way easier for me that way. I can get to everything super easy and it's just a couple bolts and a few connectors. Good chance to take a look at all the connections and clean everything too. Of course it can be done on the frame, but space is an issue.

So far as the stator being related to OP's issue, I doubt it bud. As to whether or not you should take a look, an oz of prevention is worth a lb of cure. Definitely better to be proactive and fix it before it fails.
 

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No as far as I recall, the rotor issue starts with a loss of power, then it makes noises (rattle and weird whining) and then it dies completely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I always jerk the engine on sportbikes to lash valves. Just way easier for me that way. I can get to everything super easy and it's just a couple bolts and a few connectors. Good chance to take a look at all the connections and clean everything too. Of course it can be done on the frame, but space is an issue.

So far as the stator being related to OP's issue, I doubt it bud. As to whether or not you should take a look, an oz of prevention is worth a lb of cure. Definitely better to be proactive and fix it before it fails.
Makes sense. I’ll have a look while I’m in there!
 
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