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Discussion Starter #1
It seems like i ride and it pushes coolant into the resevoir then when i stop it pisses out, by the third time this happens it is really low in the radiator on coolant and overheats, what i have done so far is 2 new thermostats, new water pump, engine ice, and it has been vaccuum bled, the fans are turning on. and i also have 2 new rad caps, i even got a higher pressure cap, this didn't help at all. Im all out of ideas i have had shops tear into it and have about 2300 dollars in shop bills so far not all related to the overheating. It is exhausting and frustrating having to explain to everyone that the yamaha is in the shop again. It has been to yamaha twice, I had the motor rebuilt with new rods bearings and all that stuff last summer so it has a new head gasket. i have toce quad pipes on it but they are a slip on wouldn't think they would be bad for it. any help would be greatly appreciated the only thing i haven't replaced is the radiator and the hoses and tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The first time i ride after topping everything off it is very normal gets to about 185-190 on open road, and about 220 in town. but when i stop it will dump coolant out of the over flow, so when i ride it again it will get a little hotter about 10 degrees hotter in town and open road. But when i stop it will yet again dump coolant and this is where it starts overheating not on the openroad but after i pull in town after riding ive been to 2 different shops ive flushed it twice. The shops arent listening to what im saying that it is pulling from the radiator every time and not returning it the only thing not replaced is the radiator and the hoses i cant beleive im the only one having this problem the last temp when its overheating is close to 250
 

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ALL ABOUT THE BLACK AND GOLD!!
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Are both Fans coming on, did you get all the air pockets out, is your Thermostat opening up?
 

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Yes the fans are coming on, it was vacuum bled so there is no air, spose i could have gotten a second bad thermostat but i think it is highly unlikely it seems to be opening up.
 

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ALL ABOUT THE BLACK AND GOLD!!
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Check to see if there is any Guk inside your Rad. Sometimes if you dont flush the coolant out properly before adding a different type of coolant it could mix together and cause a sort of sludge build up which could cause this overheating.
 

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1) check the rotation of the fans... correct direction?
2) take the thermostat out and drop it in a pot of boiling water... check if it opens... if not... its bad
3) check the flow rate on the rad... serious overheating can cause the rad to balloon in which case thres nothing to do but replace it
 

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ok lets start with this why did they rebuild your engine. was it do to this problem?? first thing is first take the cap off let it idle and see if coolant pours out if so the head gasket is bad and by that i mean exh gas is getting into the coolant. next is that's not the case look at the return hose for a clog . we had a car come into my shop after some one told him the motor was bad because it kept over heating. it was because the coolant was not flowing so again it would over flow and it overheated. but like said before make sure stat is open and fans are going correct way. i would lay more towards you have a clogged return line. but that's just my two cents. hope it works out only a few months or riding.:boobies
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I got it rebuilt because i had it serviced at a rinky dink shop and it was low on oil so it ruined a rod bearing ran great til i got it up to 150 this year and the light came on i immediately slowed down and got it cooled down where is the return line located
 

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2005 RAVEN ARRRRR 1
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Ok so just had my bike serviced and shop said that when they were flushing coolant the radiator had "GUK" in it which clogged up the pipe. They flushed it with a hose etc... And said should be pod to go "they've never seen anything like that before."
Just went for a short ride and running at 208-225 ish while riding. When I parked it at my house shot up to 243! (Flushed coolant, oil change, oil filter, air filter) I even installed manual fan switches couple months back bc of overheating problem.

Anyone know what I should do next?
 

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In the first place,the bike shouldn't be that hot while riding at cruising speed.

Did you try what spoolie suggested ?

I'd pull and replace all the hoses..Might as well because it's cheaper than getting a new bike.Sounds like the coolant isn't circulating..I'm just a novice though.
 

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2005 RAVEN ARRRRR 1
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See I said the same thing to the shop guys and they looked at me like I was an idiot! Told me that was normal temp. I told them bike used to run around 190 and after I installed my fan switch it would run @ 165-180 which was awesome!
I will try what spoolie said this weekend... I'm just frustrated and wish I knew more about bike maintenance! Should have gone to Wyotech instead of joining the Army LOL


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BTW... My bike has NEVER pissed out coolant. Never given me any problems. It always seems like it runs great. (Randomly the temp is just wicked high, temp light comes on) fans work correctly and everything.


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Maybe a silly thing like too much oil... guy I bought my K5 R1 from had like 3 quarts (!!) too much oil in the engine, the extra effort the engine was having to put out caused it to run at 214-226 during normal cruising. Should run, for where I live, around 190 ish. As I said, could be a squidly answer, but worth a quick check.
 

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If there was some sludge in your rad, it is now through the whole cooling system loop. Instead of flushing the rad with a hose, I would flush the entire cooling system. ALOT! and see what comes out. Use a something like prestone quick flush and double up on the rinse cycle's. Then i would pressure test the cooling system as air may have been bled but there could be a leak causing air to be sucked in.

How does the coolant look? perfectly normal? The sludge problem you have already had and the high temps you have incurred could easily have pushed the new head gasket / etc.
 

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I fought an overheating issue on mine for 6 months. It was overheating on the guy I got it from. It ran fine while going down the road but warmed up real fast when at a stop. It has been getting worse the more I drive it. I've done all the regular things. Went to remove the radiator tonight and happened to look up into the air box and found my filter completely covered with a rat's nest! 20200407_203706.jpg
 

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I'm upgrading my shock, so I got a good picture of the reservoir.
The hose on the left is the over flow for the res'
The hose on the cap comes from the radiator, just at the lip, under the radiator cap, it feeds through the res' cap and drops down to the bottom of the res'

I'm no mechanic, but have almost 50 years of rounding nuts, Philips screw heads, scraping knuckles, scratching my head/arse and I think............

The fluid in the bike, warms up and expands, pressurising itself, when it gets to a certain temperature the thermostat opens and it flows into the radiator-cools down with air rushing past the really thin fins( check these are not bent over, crushed by stones, jet washer cleaning {never jet was your radiator} these provide a massive surface area for the radiant heat to dissipate) when the temperature rises to the fan limits 225 degrees here in Sunny Queensland, the fans kick in and assist with the air being drawn over the really thin, delicate fins on the radiator, this usually happens whilst your sat at the lights in 46 C thinking your brain is about to stroke out, and why can't I just buy a Japanese car with Air Conditioning and music.

Then the light turns green, air flows over my leathers and through my helmet, cooling me down, and also through the radiator cooling my Super Bike and the Japanese car can suck my tailpipe, woooooooo.

As the coolant fluid expands more, the radiator cap has a thermostat which opens and allows the coolant through the pipe at its lip, running into the reservoir at the top cap and to the bottom of the tank, this has a little space from the low- high level to the overflow pipe which spills your fluid onto the dusty ground, ahem.

Now, after you have stopped,turned off the key, cracked upon the cap on a frothy long neck, the bike starts to cool down, the fluid begins to not expand or remain static I think contraction or get smaller, reduce in size, I'm going with contraction on this, because the system should be sealed this is where/ when air could be sucked in if you have cracked hoses or loose connections, instead of the pipe on top of the res' which should be through the cap and the end submerged in the fluid at the bottom,

So, I reckon, check your radiator cap, replace it?
Check the pipe at the lip, connected? Maybe blow down it to check its not blocked/trapped/squeezed anywhere, take the other end out of the res' so you don't blow muck into the tank, ahem,
Check the end of the pipe goes through the res' cap and touches the bottom of the tank?

Hope this helps,
Safe travels
Always start the ride with clean underwear.
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