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hello all! ive got a 2017 r1m i bought wrecked(super good deal.) , its my first liter bike and i come from tracking/racing the r6 world and this is what im moving up to. so the ecu and wiring harness were destroyed. i got a replacement r1m harness and i couldnt find any used ecu’s accept one off a 2019 r1m. came with the stock blipper as well so i couldnt pass it up. i installed a woodcraft key delete as the original key was destroyed and there were no spares. im waiting on a new set of throttle bodies. but im running into a few problems. im using a r1 dash (when bought it was disclosed as coming off a 2017 r1m) wrong and i cant return it. so not sure if i can somehow change the settings over to a M on the r1 dash. ive got it to the starting point, and everything is working pump is priming etc but the temp is flashing 259 and theres a “err” on the top right of the dash. is this because its not a M dash? can i buy a r1m dash from 2015-2020 and be ok with having a 2019 r1m ecu? i have countless hours reading the manual and looking at diagrams etc, and every year r1m has a different part # for the dash. and then then i cant figure out why the temp is flashing 259. i can circle through the modes but cant adjust them. cant tap into the yrc settings using the spin dial on the right clip on. its almost as if im locked out. the bike cranks and turns over but just wont start. this is a US model r1m. any help would be very much appreciated!!! PFA
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SuperbikeUnlimited.com
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That is a hodge podge of parts to get working. That combo is not gonna be a plug n play set up.

You will need to make the ecu run like a 17. There were improvements made on the 19. Fuel, ERS, ABS and IMU.

Start there. Then the dash. You may need to replace it with an M dash to read the ERS.

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Discussion Starter #3
already have the abs deleted and whatever else i wont need on the track. basically working with the imu and ers. i want to make things work. how would i do so with the ers and imu?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That is a hodge podge of parts to get working. That combo is not gonna be a plug n play set up.

You will need to make the ecu run like a 17. There were improvements made on the 19. Fuel, ERS, ABS and IMU.

Start there. Then the dash. You may need to replace it with an M dash to read the ERS.

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The ECU is going to be your biggest headache. Not sure what will all be involved in getting that to work. At least they are both the BX4 style.

As far as the dash, this link shows you how to switch between M and standard dash settings. R1 dashes are the same between R1/M/S
How to switch R1M dashboard to standard R1 mode — FTECU Forum
thank you! also, will a ecu from a 2017 r1 work? i am hearing that they are the same as long as its the same year. learned it the hard way but at least im learning what works and what doesnt.
 

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The 17 ecu will work but the ERS has to be written on it or you will have a err code.

I know some have removed the ERS from their Ms with the ecu written. @[email protected]@alltimes could maybe help with the idea of reversing that?

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BX4-8591A-10-00 is the PN of the 2017 ECU for all USA R1/R1M bikes. Looks like the S uses a different PN (not sure if that's just a mapping change?). I don't recall there being a difference between ECU mapping between R1/M models in FTECU software, so that leads me to believe that the ERS stuff does not reside in the ECU. I think if you get the right 2017 ECU, and switch the dash to M "mode", you should be good.. as long as you have PN 2KS-85902-10-00, SCU, suspension control unit, and associated M wiring harnesses.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
BX4-8591A-10-00 is the PN of the 2017 ECU for all USA R1/R1M bikes. Looks like the S uses a different PN (not sure if that's just a mapping change?). I don't recall there being a difference between ECU mapping between R1/M models in FTECU software, so that leads me to believe that the ERS stuff does not reside in the ECU. I think if you get the right 2017 ECU, and switch the dash to M "mode", you should be good.. as long as you have PN 2KS-85902-10-00, SCU, suspension control unit, and associated M wiring harnesses.
awsome. ill find out the part number of the 2017 ecu that someone is selling locally to make sure the part number matches. i already have the SCU IMU and 2017 M harness installed. im just locked out of the dash. it wont let me flip it over into M mode. could be because of the 2019 ecu? i can roll through the modes but cant change them. i cant even get into YRC settings either
 

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If there are errors present in the dash/ECU, it won't let you access the YRC settings or any other dash menus, I believe. I've also found that depending on what is showing on the dash, I believe it is fuel trip or maybe coolant temp, it won't let you into the YRC settings and other menus. Make sure the box for that info is displaying ODO or trip mileage before trying to hold the wheel to get into the deeper menus.

Did you get the original ECU with the bike? It should have the PN on it, on the back of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If there are errors present in the dash/ECU, it won't let you access the YRC settings or any other dash menus, I believe. I've also found that depending on what is showing on the dash, I believe it is fuel trip or maybe coolant temp, it won't let you into the YRC settings and other menus. Make sure the box for that info is displaying ODO or trip mileage before trying to hold the wheel to get into the deeper menus.

Did you get the original ECU with the bike? It should have the PN on it, on the back of it.
ok. because the dash has err on top left and temp is flashing. will not show odometer. the old ecu “works” but the casing is f’d up and if you move it the dash goes crazy lol. the original pn for the original ECU is the same as you posted above (BX4-8591A-10-00)
 

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Gotcha. Yeah, won't be able to get into the menus until the errors clear. Maybe worth a test of the old ECU, if you can hold it in the correct position, to see if you can get the dash into M mode and see if you are clear of errors, before you keep spending more money on new ECU's.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Gotcha. Yeah, won't be able to get into the menus until the errors clear. Maybe worth a test of the old ECU, if you can hold it in the correct position, to see if you can get the dash into M mode and see if you are clear of errors, before you keep spending more money on new ECU's.
ill give it a try tonight. i really appreciate all your guys’ help. i come from a world with zero electronics so im learning and soaking in any info as i go.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Let us know how it turns out. Interesting project... willing to help wherever I can!
so in the garage original ecu is too fucked to get it working but, went through checking all the fuses and i found that the 7.5 SIGNAL fuse was blown and the 7.5 ETV was blown and i didnt have another spare 7.5amp fuse so i tried putting a 10amp and it sparked right infront of me and blew the 10amp fuse just by barley putting it in. didnt even get to seat the fuse. instantly popped it
 

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Was the killswitch (key) off when you tried replacing that fuse? Maybe unplug the ECU and then try to replace the fuses again?

It's very possible the '19 ECU is pinned out differently than the '17. Would have to scour the wiring diagrams to be sure... Guess your easiest path would be to just get the correct '17 ECU at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Was the killswitch (key) off when you tried replacing that fuse? Maybe unplug the ECU and then try to replace the fuses again?

It's very possible the '19 ECU is pinned out differently than the '17. Would have to scour the wiring diagrams to be sure... Guess your easiest path would be to just get the correct '17 ECU at this point.
key was off. well i got the bike torn down. nothing under the tank is plugged in (airbox TB gas tank etc) everything else is though. gonna go get this ecu once i hear back from him about the part number on it. the mission continues... gonna be at this all night if i have to i really wanna sort it out.
 

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10-4. I would probably try getting those fuses back in, without popping, with the ECU disconnected, before I'd plug in another... Just in case there is an issue in the wiring harness or other sensor that could potentially damage the next ECU (expensive!!)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
key was off. well i got the bike torn down. nothing under the tank is plugged in (airbox TB gas tank etc) everything else is though. gonna go get this ecu once i hear back from him about the part number on it. the mission continues... gonna be at this all night if i have to i really wanna sort it out.
ive only got a 10amp will that be ok? i managed to unplugg and get it in without popping it
 

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Use the same fuse amps that you are replacing.

Local autozone,O rileys, chief auto , pep boys, checkard auto sells em

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Just as a test, I wouldn't worry about a 10a replacement. But I would get the right size replacement for long term use.
 
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