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You put in carbon rods and pistons yet?

There's always stuff to do.

That's why no build is ever 'finished'
I’ve done the motor before and it only lasted 8 track days, so never again. I was lucky to have YES warranty and a 2017 crate motor was given to me. In hindsight, I should of just gotten FGR forks since I spent about the same. And at my stage in life and riding ability, suspension and stability out performs a faster bike. In other words, I’ll be faster with better suspension than a sbk motor.

I haven’t seen any carbon air boxes though for the 2015 yet….


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I’ve done the motor before and it only lasted 8 track days, so never again. I was lucky to have YES warranty and a 2017 crate motor was given to me. In hindsight, I should of just gotten FGR forks since I spent about the same. And at my stage in life and riding ability, suspension and stability out performs a faster bike. In other words, I’ll be faster with better suspension than a sbk motor.

I haven’t seen any carbon air boxes though for the 2015 yet….


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There's always something.

The bike is gorgeous though, seriously.
 

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I’ve done the motor before and it only lasted 8 track days, so never again. I was lucky to have YES warranty and a 2017 crate motor was given to me. In hindsight, I should of just gotten FGR forks since I spent about the same. And at my stage in life and riding ability, suspension and stability out performs a faster bike. In other words, I’ll be faster with better suspension than a sbk motor.

I haven’t seen any carbon air boxes though for the 2015 yet….


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Yeah I'm in the same boat... not really looking to push the stock engine unless I get a 2020+ and even then I'm pretty sure I don't really need the extra hp.

Having said that, I've done most little things to free up some hp without going overboard. I.e. Full exhaust/P16 filter/BDK generator/etc... Still looking on whether I'll get velocity stacks and remap it or just change to a new bike altogether.

Ps: You really need to get that bike on the scales now!!!!!! (y)
 

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Yeah I'm in the same boat... not really looking to push the stock engine unless I get a 2020+ and even then I'm pretty sure I don't really need the extra hp.

Having said that, I've done most little things to free up some hp without going overboard. I.e. Full exhaust/P16 filter/BDK generator/etc... Still looking on whether I'll get velocity stacks and remap it or just change to a new bike altogether.

Ps: You really need to get that bike on the scales now!!!!!! (y)
He can't put her on the scales yet, she's still on a diet.
 
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Discussion Starter · #1,508 ·
Yeah I'm in the same boat... not really looking to push the stock engine unless I get a 2020+ and even then I'm pretty sure I don't really need the extra hp.

Having said that, I've done most little things to free up some hp without going overboard. I.e. Full exhaust/P16 filter/BDK generator/etc... Still looking on whether I'll get velocity stacks and remap it or just change to a new bike altogether.

Ps: You really need to get that bike on the scales now!!!!!! (y)
I would def do the stacks and remap, pref a custom map.

I weighed her maybe 1-2 years ago, and she was at 375 with a full tank. Since then, I did a YEC harness, more carbon and more TI, so I assume we are at 370 now.

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I would def do the stacks and remap, pref a custom map.
I know... it sounds good and to be honest I wouldn't mind some extra oomph up top! But those wouldn't be transferrable to a 2020+ which at the moment is looking like the direction I'll be going in sooner or later.

On the newer bike I could just drop YEC cams and get it mapped without touching anything else and be done with it, which would yield better results all around and not cost that much more when you factor in my engine will need a refresh soon.

If simply dropping cams was an option on my engine I would have gone that way already.
 
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Discussion Starter · #1,510 ·
I know... it sounds good and to be honest I wouldn't mind some extra oomph up top! But those wouldn't be transferrable to a 2020+ which at the moment is looking like the direction I'll be going in sooner or later.

On the newer bike I could just drop YEC cams and get it mapped without touching anything else and be done with it, which would yield better results all around and not cost that much more when you factor in my engine will need a refresh soon.

If simply dropping cams was an option on my engine I would have gone that way already.
I spoke to a fast CCS guy, and he went from 2019's to 2020's and he said there was no real diff in power. I asked him if he would do it again, he said nope, he would keep the older bike....
 

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I spoke to a fast CCS guy, and he went from 2019's to 2020's and he said there was no real diff in power. I asked him if he would do it again, he said nope, he would keep the older bike....
I can 100% understand that. There's no diff in power on a stock engine!

Buuuuuut... the 2020+ engines are biff'd up to be cope with more power in WSBK, there are actually quite a few differences between them. To me, as an amateur racer, the biggest would be to be able to run cams without having to also spend money on YEC valves/springs/etc. You can literally pull your stock cams, chuck YEC ones (and maybe a thinner head gasket cause why not?) and get it mapped and you will still have a very reliable engine if cared for properly. Can't do that on my old engine.

Also, the series I race here allow ppl to run V4S' and Aprilias 1100... to make matters worse, the newer BMWs are also a powerhouse. I still much prefer the handling of my R1 but it's getting harder and harder to pass cause we're no longer talking about 5-10hp difference here and the electronics of these bikes have caught up.

And here is where I think it gets interesting! Will the extra hp give me a faster lap time? Maybe. Most likely not more than a few tenths if I'm lucky!

But it will certainly give me spots on a race. You see, I might not be faster but if I can overtake and stay ahead that's all that matters.
 
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Discussion Starter · #1,512 ·
I can 100% understand that. There's no diff in power on a stock engine!

Buuuuuut... the 2020+ engines are biff'd up to be cope with more power in WSBK, there are actually quite a few differences between them. To me, as an amateur racer, the biggest would be to be able to run cams without having to also spend money on YEC valves/springs/etc. You can literally pull your stock cams, chuck YEC ones (and maybe a thinner head gasket cause why not?) and get it mapped and you will still have a very reliable engine if cared for properly. Can't do that on my old engine.

Also, the series I race here allow ppl to run V4S' and Aprilias 1100... to make matters worse, the newer BMWs are also a powerhouse. I still much prefer the handling of my R1 but it's getting harder and harder to pass cause we're no longer talking about 5-10hp difference here and the electronics of these bikes have caught up.

And here is where I think it gets interesting! Will the extra hp give me a faster lap time? Maybe. Most likely not more than a few tenths if I'm lucky!

But it will certainly give me spots on a race. You see, I might not be faster but if I can overtake and stay ahead that's all that matters.
Interesting point, would love to see the dyno chart before and after with the parts you mentioned.

I know YART sells motors for around 6-7k I believe.


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Interesting point, would love to see the dyno chart before and after with the parts you mentioned.

I know YART sells motors for around 6-7k I believe.


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From what I understand that's their starting price but sky is the limit, really... the basic package gives you balanced components (i.e. pistons/rods/crank/etc) and few bits and bobs but not much, I don't think. Seriously hope I'm wrong though! 😁
 

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From what I understand that's their starting price but sky is the limit, really... the basic package gives you balanced components (i.e. pistons/rods/crank/etc) and few bits and bobs but not much, I don't think. Seriously hope I'm wrong though! 😁
That’s cheap comparatively. MotoA built motors are 8K starting points and that’s for a “season” supersport motor, which is rebuilt annually. Big bike builds are much more
 
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Discussion Starter · #1,515 ·

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Ordered a sheet of carbon and cut off a quick bracket. I have an idea for another style bracket but this is good for now. Just missing double sided tape.









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Bro, you're crazy. I approve. If you have problems with it rotating, you might want to put a block between the radiator and the expansion tank to arrest up and down movement of the bar. I'm sure it will be just fine though, that's some premium product right there.
 

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Ordered a sheet of carbon and cut off a quick bracket. I have an idea for another style bracket but this is good for now. Just missing double sided tape.
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Love the idea but I believe the zip tie will eventually become brittle and let you down due to it being to close to a heat source...

Personally, I had that issue when mounting the rectifier provided with the BDK generator and even one of the one that holds my oil cooler guard failed. I have now twisted some lockwire and then ran it through some heat shrink to keep it from scratching anything.

Hope you have better luck than I did! (y)
 

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Love the idea but I believe the zip tie will eventually become brittle and let you down due to it being to close to a heat source...

Personally, I had that issue when mounting the rectifier provided with the BDK generator and even one of the one that holds my oil cooler guard failed. I have now twisted some lockwire and then ran it through some heat shrink to keep it from scratching anything.

Hope you have better luck than I did! (y)
We both know he's gonna use some steel strap or safety wire. The zip tie can't be permanent.
 
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