[bpolunin]

Hey all,
Just got an R1 and doing little maintenance.
So I changed the rear tire, put everything back together and started torquing the axle nut. The manual says 108 ft/lb. So I did that, but seems way too tight. All my other motorcycles, after torquing, the rear wheel still spins freely. Here, I have to put little muscle to turn it...
Is this normal for R1's? Doesn't seem right...

 

[z064life]

I torque mine to 85..but I have gone to the full 110 in the manual. It's always spun freely at either setting

 

[bpolunin]

When I mean freely, I mean shouldn't wheel turn like 2-3 turns freely? Mine would only maybe turn 1/2 turn after I push it...

 

[DanQ]

There's something other than axle torque going on there. The wheel will spin freely at full manufacturer's specified torque, in my experience.

 

[Redgecko]

Should spin quite a few turns with no chain on.

 

[bpolunin]

I already have the chain on and properly adjusted. Still should spin freely.
If I loosen the nut and just tighten as much as I can without torque it does spin freely. It's when I torque it to 108 is when it stop being free.

Should spin quite a few turns with no chain on.

 

[z064life]

something else is going on then. mine spin freely at 85 or 110

 

[Redgecko]

something else is going on then. mine spin freely at 85 or 110

Yep what he said ^^^^^

Mine spins freely regardless of torque. :fact

 

[R1Buttercup]

The axel nut is a self locking nut part #90185-24165-00

Check to see if you put everything back together correctly. Like others have stated it should move freely. Make sure you greased the axel bolt and the nut is not worn out.

 

[bpolunin]

That's the thing, what else could be wrong? That's where I'm stumped. I have changed more tires in my life than I would like and never had this happened. This is first time on my new R1, but the process is the same...

 

[Silas]

One or more of your spacers are installed incorrectly.

 

[Redgecko]

Check that the bracket for the rear caliper is seated correctly.

 

[bpolunin]

Thanks guys. Will take all off tonight and recheck everything. Got a new torque tool just in case as well. Track day tomorrow so need to sort this out...

 

[bsgesch]

Just had the same thing happen with my R6, I'm about to go out and take it apart again. I took the wheel off to put captive spacers on and when I put it back together, binding at proper torque setting. As mentioned, I've heard brake bracket binding as a possibility. Imma just take apart, check it, then put together - checking every step.

 

[bpolunin]

Alright, figured it out. Went out for a track day, 4 lap in, really loud knocking sound. Put on stand, tried to take the rear wheel off, axle would not come out. Took 5 guys, bunch of knocking with hammer, and blood to get the axle out. Cush drive bearing locked up the axle after heating up to like 600 degrees .
Problem was a spacer between cush drive and wheel bearing. I don't know how I didn't notice, but when I changed my tires, the tire guy I guess forgot to put the spacer back in the wheel. Also, the bearing in the cush drive and the spacer on the sprocket side got destroyed.
Glad I noticed it in the turn right before the exit. Could have been bad if the rear would of locked up.
My fault for not checking, but the tire guy sure will be hearing from me.

 

[bpolunin]

Question, never changed the bearing in cush drive. How do I do that? Looks like it's pressed in. Anyway of doing it on my own without taking to shop?

 

[quick kurt]

Question, never changed the bearing in cush drive. How do I do that? Looks like it's pressed in. Anyway of doing it on my own without taking to shop?

Punch and hammer to remove old bearing, to install use old bearing on top of new to tap into place. Putting the new bearing in the freezer for a few hrs. will 'shrink' it some, also lightly heating the area the bearing sits in will 'expand' it some. Between the heating and cooling of the two parts, sometimes they will almost drop into place. Use the outer race (shell) of the old bearing to tap into place, you don't want to apply any force to the bearings center, which can damage the balls and races. Removing some material from the outside of the old bearing will help to keep it from getting stuck when using it to install the new. Only remove enough so the old bearing just drops in place, a lot of clearance isn't necessary.

 

[quick kurt]

Alright, figured it out. Went out for a track day, 4 lap in, really loud knocking sound. Put on stand, tried to take the rear wheel off, axle would not come out. Took 5 guys, bunch of knocking with hammer, and blood to get the axle out. Cush drive bearing locked up the axle after heating up to like 600 degrees .
Problem was a spacer between cush drive and wheel bearing. I don't know how I didn't notice, but when I changed my tires, the tire guy I guess forgot to put the spacer back in the wheel. Also, the bearing in the cush drive and the spacer on the sprocket side got destroyed.
Glad I noticed it in the turn right before the exit. Could have been bad if the rear would of locked up.
My fault for not checking, but the tire guy sure will be hearing from me.

He could've killed you with such a stupid oversight, luckily you didn't get hurt or worse. If at any time something doesn't seem quite right, it most likely isn't , always search until you find the cause , after all your life is on the line. He owes you a bunch of 'free' tires as well as paying for the destroyed parts, IMO its the least he could do.

 

[Redgecko]

So you knew there was something not right with the rear wheel and still went on a track day...................

 

[bsgesch]

When taking my wheels to get tires, I always remove everything I can - spacers, sprocket, cush rubbers, etc. That way the tire guy is just responsible for the tires.