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Hey guys, I have a problem with my motorcycle. The motorcycle vibrates at 3.5k rpm when parked and riding. when I ride, rearsets, rearview mirror, handlebar vibrate strongly. Hands go numb after 10 minutes of riding. Up to 3.5k rpm is reasonably good. I replaced the original yamaha clutch bearings but there is still a problem, the rivets in the clutch are good. I also checked the engine mount, the motorcycle has 20k miles of mileage and no signs of a fall.

Are these scratches on the clutch and engine block normal? I have no idea what can be broken, maybe someone has encountered such a problem?
Greetings!




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Again, is this a cassette style transmission? I also see that split to the right, a hex bolt at 3 o'clock, another hex at 12 o'clock.
I think that back finish on the clutch outer is normal. Can't see what else would drop that deep, not hit the teeth if the rough finish goes that far back to the teeth and looks untouched is my way of looking at the photos.

At the case where the cover goes on. Look at the shaved surface and how wide that is. Was that factory clearance for the clutch outer? I'd say the cassette bolts are loose, but I'd think they'd back out, show rubs-side to side-at the 12 o'clock hex? Case rub is not even close to the back of the basket, plus wide-to-narrow do not match. Have no clue, but how tight are those bolts, and probably have a locker agent at the book showing those (alleged) cassette bolts?

Going right back to a simple compression check without the valve set, knowing right now what the numbers are? 20k in and initial valve check was when? Balanced comp numbers are smooth running. Shim clearance is smooth running. New plugs are crisp running. Throttle body sync is all about matching compression and hardly moving the sync screw if any.

Cam chain slack and some aftermarket non-adjust, but more a high maintenance-stay up on it more weekly than you know, and not letting the auto tensioner system keep smooth chain tension, not sloppy if aftmkt applies.

The look at the shop manual and if this is gear to gear balancer shaft says it's an eccentric setting. Then I doubt that needs adjusting. Then a sacrificial removal of the oil pan and check for rod/crank/insert material, if not cut the oil filter open and check to see brass and aluminum chips?

Then a pull of the plugs, lunch at sushi central, take the sticks home, drop a stick in the hole, once you know you are at TDC. A slight few degrees past TDC, stop moving the crank. With the stick, push the piston dome and see if it moves down? But you'd hear a rod knock if not bust out the case at the happy rpm setting, cough, the one next to the redline.

Do I hear compression first? Oil filter tear out the pleats and look for vibration?

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)
 
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