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· Premium Member
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6,305 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys.. changing friction plates didn't help.
I also changed to 100% synthetic.
It doesn't matter which gear I'm in.. I can roll the rear wheel like I'm in neatral. I have tighted the clutch as hard as I could.. but it apparently didn't help. What's up with that?

That didn't help getting rid of the Knocking noise from the engine. So now I've removed the engine from the frame and it is on the table ready to be departed. But I'll begin on that tomorrow morning. No stores are open anyway, easter stuff. :bash

Not until some time next week I'll get to replace what is broken. Probably some kind of rod bearing like you all mentioned.

I'm not welthy so I will have to do all the job myself.

:cryin

Going to take a bath now to see if I can get rid of the smell :p
 

· Premium Member
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6,305 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
**** battles2a5.. you're scaring me. Maybe this change of rod bearing (or whatever the problem is) will do absolutely nothing good and maybe this the shit will come back after XXXX miles.. :cryin

I guess the previous owner knew about this :(

:ugh
 

· THE MAN
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3,750 Posts
ROD BEARINGS :(

I am in the middle of a rod bearing problem. I have the motor in a million pieces...lol I have found that it is cheaper to buy a new crankshaft than get the old one fixed ($330 retail). The bottom end bearings are pretty pricey, like $160 for the rod and main bearings witch will all have to be changed if a new crank is used. Make sure and have someone measure the bad rod and make sure it is still round.

Far as tranny problems, either the shift drum is not turning or the counter shaft sprocket is stripped out. take a close look at the counter shaft and look for damage. If it looks ok then pull the small cover above the counter shaft cover off. It house's the shift shaft and spring. I would expect something to be amiss in there.

If you can feel it shifting but the motor does not turn the wheel then the clutch basket is broken or damaged or installed wrong. Maybe a clutch plate is missing. When installed the clutch plates should have no play in them, they should only be loose in the basket when the clutch lever is pulled in. Good luck Brother.
 

· Premium Member
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6,305 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's so odd.. all I did was changing friction plates and oil. Then it wouldn't drive the back wheel. :(

Sure, it had 8 friction pates before.. but there should only be 7 plates.

BUhuhuhuhuhu!!! :cryin I'm ruined!!!

But what can new rod bearings cost.. ???
 

· My insurance eats me...
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243 Posts
Ooooh. I have an idea. Is there any way you stacked the clutch incorrectly and you have a steel plate on top of another stell plate? If you don't have friction, the wheel would spin. Just an idea, but a very cheap solution.
 

· Registered
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12 Posts
SWEDIE!

I didn't hear nor do I know how youR woes began; BUT from what I understand, u'r not getting drive.

If this is d case; u have d baskets reinstalled incorrectly.

I know this sounds very obvious and forgive me for talking shite!! (Hope u all aint so serious!)

(BIT BOUT MESELF::::: PUT MY FIRST YAM O N D ROAD 1/2/02) BEEN WORKIN ON D SPANNERS ON RACECARS & KARTS SINCE 94!) :bash
 

· Premium Member
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6,305 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
there's a fixed plate in the basket (tranny).. should a friction plate be the first in order there.. or should it be a steel plate?

These steel plates have a sharp edge on ones side and a smoother edge on one. Does it matter which side is pointing inwards and outwards?

Do I really have to buy a new crankshaft???
 

· Smoke'em!
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180 Posts
Yo sweedie... sucks to be you. :(

Just one advice, i've rebuild 3 engines and all i can say is that if you plan on doing engine work yourself you can't be perfectionist enough... this is no guesswork mechanic. One mistake and you can do more bad than good to your engine. If you've never done this before you need to do get a good manual ( Haynes R1 Service Manual ) or someone who has experience in engine rebuilds.

Good luck!!!
:hellobye
 

· Premium Member
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6,305 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I know!!! :cryin

I only got the '98 R1 Service Manual. :(
I want the Haynes manual, but i'm a cheap bastard... that can't afford that manual anyway. I so want it. I had one for my CBR900RR. Great manual.

My dad has rebuilt engiens (cars.. and motorcycles) and my brother rebuilt his RD350.. so I'm not totally alone.

I missed a special tool today so I had to quit for the day.. early. Tomorrow I should have the tool needed (to remove the head block).

But sure wish I had a friend that have rebuilt an R1 engine. I got two friends in Stockholm that have done so.. but it's quite far between us and going back and forth will be expensive on my part since I'd have to pay for their fuel. I can hardly afford fixing this engine so I can't afford any other expenses. :(

Gawd I wish I had an R1 engine laying around.
I actually got a friend in Gothenburg that has an R1 engine.. a '98 that he can sell to me for 800 dollars but it comes without carburators and broken clutch cover and engine cover. Not hard to fix since I can take my current. But that engine has the '98 gearbox and I'm not sure if that gearbox will hold up to the kind of stunting I do.

Wish I were a millionare.
 

· Fierce on two wheels
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143 Posts
Swede- It does matter whether you put the steel plates on smooth side out or not. If you had 8 plates on before you should try to put 8 plates back on and see if that helps. When you put the whole job back as the way it was before disassembly, is the symptom the same? All you were trying to fix was a strange knocking wasn't it? Try making it the way is was before disassembly, and this may sound cheese, but borrow a stethoscope from your nurse friend and listen carefully to where the knock is coming from, and go from there. A stethoscope has bailed me out more than once before. (so has my nurse friend!)
 

· Premium Member
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6,305 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
NF, oh.. I'll try changing the way the friction plates/steel plates are put in. thanks.

The engine can't be started right now.. it's already half dissassembled.

Will use a video camera to record how everything is lookign right now..
 

· Premium Member
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6,305 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yeah.. alright. But I don't want to buy stolen stuff. You get into trouble easily if you can't prove that the engine is yours.

But if the engine can't be fixed... by me. I'll buy that engine for 800 dollars (or 750 really, since it's 8000kr).

I want my shit bike to work, dammit.
 

· Premium Member
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6,305 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
alright. what stopped me from continuing working on the bike today was a special bolt and... well.. have a look yourself... :(

I haven't still reached the rod bearings. But I should do that when I get that special bolt. dammit.

Frustration!!!
 

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· Ghostrider Squadron
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9,259 Posts
on your plate question as to which side is out. i work for a motorcycle shop(yamaha,suz,kawi,honda,ktm). i am not a mechanic(motorcycle sales) but all the guys i have talked to say the sharp edge goes out. i have tried it all ways. smooth out, sharp out, and mixed. all seem to work fine for me. i just replace clutch in mine and i always like to use sharp side out method. shop manual doesn't say. also you could buy the engine and do a tranny swap if your pretty mechanical. or just put the new engine in and stunt it until the tranny goes out!! good luck swedie.
 
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