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Hey ya'll - new to the forum. Ive had my 2015 r1 for 2 years now and have been running a decat link pipe for the last couple months with completely stock mapping and without a ftecu or dyno tune or anything like that.
Im sorry, Im sure this has been asked many times here in the past but is it ok to still run the bike as is without the tune without any major harm occurring?
The bike currently doesnt seem to be running too badly at all besides the usual cracking and popping on the decel and downshifting, which I can live with. I average 7000-8000 miles on it per year and mostly ride moderate street and canyon style riding and will probably do more or less around 6-8 track days per year.

Ive had both a lot of people and experts either tell theres no real need to do a tune and I'll be fine to run the bike as is, unless Im chasing exact hp numbers but of course Ive also has a lot say I need to do a flash and dyno tune no matter what and theres a chance it could be harmful (both types of responses have also been from many owners of 2015+ r1's too).

Im just a little bit confused on what to do for now. I would have assumed these modern hi tech bikes would be able to manage themselves or even auto tune with a decat or exhaust system (sorry this may sound very dumb, im no expert). Im also no racer and Im not chasing every fraction of hp too, the bike is already more than powerful and capable enough for me lol.

What would you guys think is best?


Thanks!! :)
 

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Do you feel any “flat spots” or hesitation in your RPM’s ? If not and your satisfied with your bikes performance, ride on safe brother!
You can also pull your spark plugs and use that as a gauge to monitor the AFR (air fuel ratio)
 

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There are many more benefits to a flashed ECU then just horsepower. So while it's not needed, I would highly suggest it. It's not expensive really.... Just take a look at the benefits and see if the cost is worth the money in your opinion.
 

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This breaks down into mostly an argument of are you getting proper fueling. With the removal of a cat, you're increasing the air flow throughout your engine. You've likely also removed the O2 sensors if you removed the cat, unless your Y pipe accommodates for one. If you still have your stock O2s in, you might be able to get away without the tune (if you're still within closed loop thresholds and the ECU can adjust itself to the increased flow). But if you removed the O2, your ECU is not getting any feedback of the air fuel ratio (AFR). It no longer knows whether or not the fueling is insufficient, sufficient, or in excess of what the fueling requirement is. Granted a lot of this is threshold. You have max rich power AFR and max lean power AFR and if you fall outside of those ranges, that's when you'll notice power losses. If you're still within those limits, you might not notice power loss, but you might experience knocking.
On top of that, if you are running rich, you'll likely just waste gas and have a bunch of fouling. If you run lean, you'll likely see knock/detonation/pinging if you put a heavy load on the bike, maybe even a hotter engine than usual. Sure, you can knock without the engine going kaput on you. However, knock enough times and you'll start to notice signs of engine failure eventually leading to the failure itself. The way some old school guys did it during drag races were to pull the spark plugs after a run and observe the plug. They could tell if the fueling was off based on the way the plug looked. But doing that after riding for a bit might not be the best indicator of how the bike is running as you're exposing it to conditions other than what it's likely to be at at wide open throttle.
My recommendation is to either find a map/tune/flash that you trust (mapped specifically to your bike's setup) and run that (most tuners tuning in open loop -no wideband/AFR feedback - do this) or to get an autotune setup and allow the sensor to give your bike the proper fueling. Regardless of which, I would get the bike properly mapped with either a tuner or the autotune (depending on what your bike's setup is). If you have a Graves exhaust, Graves usually extends the courtesy of providing a map on their online files, or they send you one with the exhaust.
If you're located in SoCal, shoot me a PM.
 

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As cheap as a mail order ECU flash is, just get it done OP. The fuelling won't be as perfect as it would be off of a dyno, but it will be close enough that you won't be able to tell my the seat of the pants.

As mentioned, you get a lot of other benefits with a reflash, not just fuelling. I think these guys charge like $175 and it's totally worth it: Home | xplaner1customtuning
 

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+1 XplaneR1tuning.
I had my ECU done there. I am very happy with the way my bike performs. You can also talk to Freddie at Superbike Unlimited. They offer ECU reflashing too.
 

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Nick Marino aka xplaner1 just did my 2018 R1 ecu flash and its a completely different machine. I would recommend this aswell.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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I miss my R1
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Nice thing with my Multistrada de-cat is the stock O2 sensors are still in place, so in theory the bike should correct its fueling to match. (I think?)
Unlike my Multi, ECU flashes for an R1 are plentiful and cheap, I'd just send it away and not risk any damage.
 

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2015 R1 Yoshimura Exhaust - MJS Y midpipe - Woolich re flash
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This breaks down into mostly an argument of are you getting proper fueling. With the removal of a cat, you're increasing the air flow throughout your engine. You've likely also removed the O2 sensors if you removed the cat, unless your Y pipe accommodates for one. If you still have your stock O2s in, you might be able to get away without the tune (if you're still within closed loop thresholds and the ECU can adjust itself to the increased flow). But if you removed the O2, your ECU is not getting any feedback of the air fuel ratio (AFR). It no longer knows whether or not the fueling is insufficient, sufficient, or in excess of what the fueling requirement is. Granted a lot of this is threshold. You have max rich power AFR and max lean power AFR and if you fall outside of those ranges, that's when you'll notice power losses. If you're still within those limits, you might not notice power loss, but you might experience knocking.
On top of that, if you are running rich, you'll likely just waste gas and have a bunch of fouling. If you run lean, you'll likely see knock/detonation/pinging if you put a heavy load on the bike, maybe even a hotter engine than usual. Sure, you can knock without the engine going kaput on you. However, knock enough times and you'll start to notice signs of engine failure eventually leading to the failure itself. The way some old school guys did it during drag races were to pull the spark plugs after a run and observe the plug. They could tell if the fueling was off based on the way the plug looked. But doing that after riding for a bit might not be the best indicator of how the bike is running as you're exposing it to conditions other than what it's likely to be at at wide open throttle.
My recommendation is to either find a map/tune/flash that you trust (mapped specifically to your bike's setup) and run that (most tuners tuning in open loop -no wideband/AFR feedback - do this) or to get an autotune setup and allow the sensor to give your bike the proper fueling. Regardless of which, I would get the bike properly mapped with either a tuner or the autotune (depending on what your bike's setup is). If you have a Graves exhaust, Graves usually extends the courtesy of providing a map on their online files, or they send you one with the exhaust.
If you're located in SoCal, shoot me a PM.
I was very impressed with the way you explained it and please allow me to ask you something ... i`m running my 2015 R1 with Woolich reflash and Yoshimura exhaust and MJS Y mid pipe. The thing is i couldn't make a fuel map to the bike, coz the combination of my exhaust and mid pipe is rare. So, would that affect the bike , would it harm it ? I kept my o2 sensor connected but we disabled the EXUP .. Thanks a million
 

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I was very impressed with the way you explained it and please allow me to ask you something ... i`m running my 2015 R1 with Woolich reflash and Yoshimura exhaust and MJS Y mid pipe. The thing is i couldn't make a fuel map to the bike, coz the combination of my exhaust and mid pipe is rare. So, would that affect the bike , would it harm it ? I kept my o2 sensor connected but we disabled the EXUP .. Thanks a million
I think you'd be okay with running the bike on a similarly performing map. From my experience of throwing on chopped together maps for friends without matching their exact setup, they all ran fine. If you want to fully verify, I'd suggest getting a wideband O2 and verifying your AFR readings after rewriting your map. Best way to think of it is that you're addressing the airflow restriction that the catalytic converter and baffles in your exhaust are introducing. If you use a Y-pipe that has similar sizing as a full exhaust's pipe size, are you going to end up with a airflow restriction that varies greatly from what the full exhaust has? The variance there is likely negligible. I would find a map with for that exhaust pipe you selected (provided they're using a different Y pipe and removing the cat) and utilize that. The power commander website has a lot of their maps available. If I recall correctly, Woolich, like FTECU, allows you to import fueling tables from the power commander files.
As an additional side note: if you are trying to just ride the bike, copying a fueling table will land you in an acceptable zone. If you're trying to milk power, you will need to get the bike on a dyno and adjust the ignition timing (usually requires a tuner unless you have experience doing this).
 

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I will try to do as you say coz unfortunately we don’t have dynos here anywhere so I’ll try this with the fuel map or I’ll get a device I can use to do it through riding ... Thanks man
 

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Nice thing with my Multistrada de-cat is the stock O2 sensors are still in place, so in theory the bike should correct its fueling to match. (I think?)
Unlike my Multi, ECU flashes for an R1 are plentiful and cheap, I'd just send it away and not risk any damage.
My understanding is that the R1 ECU relies on fueling tables to predict proper fuel flow at high power and/or high rpm (i.e. "open loop") due to narrow band O2 sensor limitations. Basically, the ECU is only closed loop at low power/rpm. If your multistrada uses narrow band sensors, I would guess its ECU does the same, meaning you are running lean when you're at high power/revs due to stock fuel tables expecting less airflow in the same conditions. Running lean is hard on things.

The auto tune kits come with a wide band sensor, which is why they are able to "close the loop" at high power/revs and adjust the open loop tables accurately.
 

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I miss my R1
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I ended up adding a RapidBike EVO to my Multistrada anyway, which uses the stock o2 sensors to remap on the fly... Not sure I'm convinced it works 100%, but it's the best option I had available since there aren't any dyno tuners within a reasonable distance.
 
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