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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 2007 R1 that has me confused and frustrated. One thing I noticed is installing the wheel complete without the cush I would get no more than .005” runout of the sprocket, side to side not radially. Soon as I install the cush the sprocket runs out +.030”. Bought many parts 2 new chains 3 new rear and front sprockets, and carrier. My only option seems to be to shim the sprocket which is not what I want to do. Same thing it was never like this with wobble till I put new tires chain and sprockets on. Tried lubing the cush and tried swapping cush rubbers around. I feel my only option is to off the R1. Bike runs great but wobbles around 45 so I have to go 80 everywhere so not to get frustrated. Any ideas?
 

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Let's look at the rear of the bike so you look at both X and Y factors. Call X side to side, call Y the up and down.

The bike I doubt will wobble and can tell a .030" run-out from .005" Look at X. That slop of the side plates will take out any side to side no matter the speed. It will just track from the bottom to the top as if zero is happening.

The Y of going up and down is so far away from the other sprocket, you hitting a bump and that swingarm going up and down is not even a factor of a C-hair of a move if you point to Y.

!. Might want to look at your front forks being even at the top out of the crown> Where are they sitting... go measure.
a. Wrong place. Take the front wheel off.
b. Slide the axle into both fork legs.
c. Was it hard of a push or float right in?

2. Wobble wise:
a. Do you change tires as a set no matter how unworn the front looks but moved as many turns as the rear being the worn tire is wear, yes or no? That's new-used is a wobble about to happen. Not saying the OP, just showing the squid move.
b . Do you match tire profiles or different brands front or rear?
c. Do you float the one fork so as the axle slides in with little friction so you are statically square to the lower triple tree? It's not a wobble kind of inducement, but more squaring up the rear axle to the front axle.
d. Do you ride a crashed bike with the front end kind of tweaked? Where the front wheel goes straight, but your top crown is off a few degrees either way, and the bars look like you're leaning left or right, but are upright?

3. Balanced dead are the moves:
a. Even with spacers not dragging on the bearings, do we balance our own wheels statically with the axles and bike?
b. You don't really need a wheel balancer stand with knife point edges to hold the axle for the least amount of drag.
c. I would think the static spin on the bike and how much that axle is dragging now, but the chalk mark still sits at 12.o'clock every time.
d. And when you can move that wheel at any clock position, that balance says it's not about to add a wobble variable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response. Both tires same brand and brand new… I’m not sure wobble is the correct word to use? I have chain chatter and I think I am feeling that chatter that i see when bike is running first gear on stand.. hold any rpm and bottom side of the chain starts to chatter; almost as if there needs to be a chain guide installed. Whether or not this is the wobble feeling at 45-50mph I’m not 100%. All I know is it started after putting all the new stuff on. I cannot get the sprocket to run true in x. I’ve static balanced the tires. I will check the fork tube height also in near future.
 

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I think you’re seeing forces from the wheel catching up to the transmission speed. If it’s only doing it on the stand, the wheel is probably picking up speed, matching the trans speed, and then the chain gets some slight slack causing the chain to chatter
 

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I would mark the cush rubbers 1-6 and assign them a spot. Test it and mark where the runout is on the hub. Rotate all the rubber positions 180 degrees and see if the runout spot moves on the hub. That will tell you a lot. Have you tried this?

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I cut the connecting tabs off all the Cush, sliced off all the buttons (shortened then) so to remove any height part of the Cush to be certain the Cush wasn’t persuading the sprocket to runout side to side. And it made no difference, so bought new Cush drives and put all back together. The bike is covered up on lift in corner of the garage for winter; soon i will get it out and try to fig this out again… I will try to match mark the Cush as you’re saying just to see if I get any difference. The more ideas y’all give me I’ll try…I’ll prob need to buy new back axle also since I’ve had mine on and off at least 30 times trying to chase this.
 

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Venom X/O
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I cut the connecting tabs off all the Cush, sliced off all the buttons (shortened then) so to remove any height part of the Cush to be certain the Cush wasn’t persuading the sprocket to runout side to side. And it made no difference, so bought new Cush drives and put all back together. The bike is covered up on lift in corner of the garage for winter; soon i will get it out and try to fig this out again… I will try to match mark the Cush as you’re saying just to see if I get any difference. The more ideas y’all give me I’ll try…I’ll prob need to buy new back axle also since I’ve had mine on and off at least 30 times trying to chase this.
I take my axles off my bike 50 times a season in tire changes. The axle is fine.
 

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Venom X/O
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Let’s see some pictures of the carrier, the sprocket, the bearings, and down through the center of the rim. Did you put the spacer between the wheel hub and the carrier back correctly?
 
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