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My R1 eats spark plugs
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Discussion Starter #1
So I've had an Elka on a different bike in the past. It had ride height adjustment, you simply loosen the lock nut, then turn the bottom off the shock body until you are happy, then retighten the lock nut.

Can you not do this on the stock shock? I have read/been told you have to take the lower links off and spin the bottom eyelet. This seems time consuming and dumb. Can I just do what I did on the Elka?

Thanks for the help

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My R1 eats spark plugs
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Discussion Starter #3
Damn, stupid! OK, I'll just man up and do it.

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ride height

Hi
Actually you can leave the shock on the bike....undo the eyelet lock nut and turn the upper nut clockwise as viewed from beneath. This is the same as turning the eyelet anti- clockwise to extend the shock.
 

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My R1 eats spark plugs
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Discussion Starter #5
That's how my Elka works, I wondered if the stock shock was the same. I think I'll find the service manual to make certain.

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MRA Racer
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yes. Best setting with stock shock is 4mm increase.
 

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MRA Racer
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4mm longer shock or 4mm height at the rear?

And then do what with the fork?

Thanks.


With the stock suspension the best starting point is +4mm in shock length and run forks flush in triples.


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yes. Best setting with stock shock is 4mm increase.
Hah, that completely depends on rider weight, what spring is on the shock, how long the swingarm is and how much preload is dialed in... Just start raising the rear gradually between sessions to get a feel for how it affects the bike and do that until you're happy with corner exit. Though frankley you should probably be looking at a different shock and at minimum spring if you're adjusting shock length.
 

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MRA Racer
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Hah, that completely depends on rider weight, what spring is on the shock, how long the swingarm is and how much preload is dialed in... Just start raising the rear gradually between sessions to get a feel for how it affects the bike and do that until you're happy with corner exit. Though frankley you should probably be looking at a different shock and at minimum spring if you're adjusting shock length.


To each his own.


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Unacceptable
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Hah, that completely depends on rider weight, what spring is on the shock, how long the swingarm is and how much preload is dialed in... Just start raising the rear gradually between sessions to get a feel for how it affects the bike and do that until you're happy with corner exit.
^^^This. 4mm shock length increase can translate to a whopping big increase when measured at some point on the rear tail section due to the effects of the shock linkage.
 

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Riding anything anytime
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Hah, that completely depends on rider weight, what spring is on the shock, how long the swingarm is and how much preload is dialed in... Just start raising the rear gradually between sessions to get a feel for how it affects the bike and do that until you're happy with corner exit. Though frankley you should probably be looking at a different shock and at minimum spring if you're adjusting shock length.
Excellent advice!
 

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^^^This. 4mm shock length increase can translate to a whopping big increase when measured at some point on the rear tail section due to the effects of the shock linkage.
Right, the linkage ratio on the R1 is approximately 2:1 so a 4mm shock length change is a 8mm ride height change. Of course you lengthen the shock for more swingarm angle and anti-squat. That's great of getting rear traction off corners and not running wide. However more ride height means a greater chance of wheelie...So in my opinion, a stiffer spring is generally preferred. More shock length is always an option if you need a soft spring to keep tire contact over crests and lower frequency bumps though. Like most guys will say, it's a compromise.
 

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My R1 eats spark plugs
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Discussion Starter #14
So I got the service manual and it doesn't have one word on how to adjust the rear ride height. It is much less work to lossen the lock nut, then spin up the bottom spring perch, but I'm not 100% sure that is acceptable with this shock. Don't really know how you would find out either, if the manual says nothing.

Anyway, as for the whole set up thing, there are many verying factors. I actually don't have an R1, but an fz10. I purchased an R1 shock and sprung it for my weight. I am now adjusting the chassis so that it turns how I like. I'm going to add one more turn to the rear shock before I go to the track next week and see if it turns quicker like I am looking for.

Thanks for all the info.

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