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^I wish I was that pocketbike!
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Discussion Starter #1
Yo peeps I stripped the head on one of the 4 hex screws that mounts the fender to the tail section. How can I get that bastard outta there? Do I have to drill it out? Any info on how to do this is greatly appreciated. TIA :thumbup
 

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MY R1 ATE THE BANK!
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1,447 Posts
carefully knock a torx into it and turn the bastard out IT WILL come out!!
 

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Canadian Drinking Team
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1,771 Posts
:iamwithst I stripped one of the heads on the bolts that hold the gas tank on last night. Used a torx and got it started but it stripped again... I then pounded a flat head screwdriver into it and was able to get it out. Good luck... I know Sears makes those tools that are suppose to get out sripped bolts, you could try that.
 

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we meat again
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18,563 Posts
I'm not sure if you can use the torx method if the bolt is pretty tight. Drilling it is very good method, but make sure you use a right size drill, cause you don't want to damage the threads. Try a smaller size first, then keep going up until it's right. Basically you just need to drill it until the top is cut off, once the bolt top is off, then your bolt is already loose. I hope you know what I mean.

;)
 

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we meat again
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18,563 Posts
Here is a quick graph I did...

You don't need to drill out the entire bolt, just need the top to cut off...
 

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Who's Ya Daddy??
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6,004 Posts
Use an EZ-out. You can get them at any local hardware. Drill a small hole in the bolt relative to the size of the ez out and then tap the ez out in, lock on with a wrench and out it comes. I have used them before with 6mm bolts on dirt bikes and they work good.

Warning about cutting the head off, if the bolt is stuck because the threads are bound, stripped, siezed by aluminum corrosion, or lok tite, you are gonna be cry'en after you cut that head off.
 

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LoneRone
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778 Posts
I had a similar problem with the peg bolts and heelgaurd bolts on my 02, I put a thin metal blade in my dremel and cut a slot deep enough to get a flat head socket screw driver in and unscrew the bolt, good luck Mega!

Joe
 

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Registered
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100 Posts
All previous suggestions are great ones, try getting and good shap punch and hitting the outter rim of the screw in the direction you want it to go.
 

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^I wish I was that pocketbike!
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Discussion Starter #11
thanks a lot for all the help guys! I will try the drilling method first. If not I'll definitely look at the torx option. You guys :rock thanks again!!!
 

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My Screw is lOOse!
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724 Posts
kwcomp said:
Use an EZ-out. You can get them at any local hardware. Drill a small hole in the bolt relative to the size of the ez out and then tap the ez out in, lock on with a wrench and out it comes. I have used them before with 6mm bolts on dirt bikes and they work good.

Warning about cutting the head off, if the bolt is stuck because the threads are bound, stripped, siezed by aluminum corrosion, or lok tite, you are gonna be cry'en after you cut that head off.
done this numerous times on my old bike.. used to keep spare bolts/screws for this reason..

go to sears and get an EZ out... IT WORKS and you can use it again & Again & again..

once you use the EZ out and get the bolt out, use a hack saw and cut a flat groove in the head (like a flat screw driver slot) and you can re-use the bolt until your dealer gets some new ones in;)
 

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wheres the aux rev limiter?
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882 Posts
snap-on REX10 kit these are the best e-z outs money can buy, if youre talking about the allen screws you may not even need to drill it , also if you can get a pair of vise grips on the head you can probably turn it out that way to.
 

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MY R1 ATE THE BANK!
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1,447 Posts
Tell you wot u fly me over (from the uk ) first class treat me to a bit of 5* and a couple of track days and i will get the bugger out for yer how??? TORX MATE TORX its never yet failed !!!! good luck
 

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Formley known as slutty
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5,183 Posts
try one of these......If that dosent work I think the snap on easy outs is your best bet.
 

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THEY CALLED ME SWEETNESS!!!!!!
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I stripped all of them on my R6! (don't ask) I spent about an hour drilling to get the fender off.
 

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Cheating death in the "D"
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R1Fanatic said:
I stripped all of them on my R6! (don't ask) I spent about an hour drilling to get the fender off.

Another prime example for quality TI fasteners (don't forget the TI-Prep) :thumbup

They don't corrode or strip like the cheap SST & OEM alloy ones :yesnod

Also available with hex head for socket style applications :thumbup
 

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MY R1 ATE THE BANK!
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1,447 Posts
RON You got me at it now mate Ive started putting TI every where.. Started with the disc bolts now I cant stop ARRRGGGGGGHHH Gotta say that TI prep looks like copper grease to me !!!
 

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Cheating death in the "D"
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21,086 Posts
chuckh said:
RON You got me at it now mate Ive started putting TI every where.. Started with the disc bolts now I cant stop ARRRGGGGGGHHH Gotta say that TI prep looks like copper grease to me !!!
Yup, its worse than a CF addiction, spending gobs for packets of those rolled/machined little jems. You find yourself pulling bolts & measuring them, writing down little lists, only to look for more to replace :lol

You won't be sorry thou, they have saved me alot of headaches down the road, especially on the rotors, brake calipers, pinch bolts, clip-ons & triple trees :thumbup

The only downside is I had to get another storage box for all the OEM fasteners I've pulled :lol

I believe it is copper/brass in the TI-Prep, acts as a sacrificial element to prevent bimetalic (dissimilier metals) corrosion :yesnod
 

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MY R1 ATE THE BANK!
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1,447 Posts
I believe it is copper/brass in the TI-Prep, acts as a sacrificial element to prevent bimetalic (dissimilier metals) corrosion

WAIT TILL I TELL EM THAT ONE DOWN THE PUB !!!!!!!!!!

cheers RON!!

PIC SHOWS WHERE IT ALL STARTED i still blame you though Ron
 

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