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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I saw that this section has been a bit slow lately, so thought I'd contribute.

Here is the mostly complete mods list for the bike:

Chassis and braking:
Ohlins TTX and FGR Pressurized Gas Fork Cartridges
SBU Superbike-Spec Suspension Linkage and Link Rod
Attack Performance Adjustable Offset Triple Clamps
BrakeTech Oversize 330x6mm Ductile Iron Brake Rotors
Dymag CA5 Carbon Fiber Wheels
Brembo Billet 19x18 with Titanium Hardware and LBP switch
Brembo GP4-RX 130mm Nickel Calipers
Underslung Rear Brembo Caliper
Vesrah SRJL-XX Brake Pads (for steel rotors)
Ferodo XRAC Brake Pads (for iron rotors)
Spiegler Brake Lines
Galespeed Remote Brake Adjuster
Superbike Unlimited Rear Rotor
Ohlins SD 024 Steering Damper
Motoholders aluminum subframe with carbon fiber trays
Rear Brake HRC-style Reservoir Delete

GripOne P3 traction control with IMU and datalogger
2012 ECU/Traction Control Swap
Bazzaz ZFi-TC and Z-AFM
Techtronics CABS auto blipper
Alien Motion AM-12 Battery

Superbike Head with Custom Cams
BDK Engineering Race Generator Kit
Graves Upper and Lower Velocity Stacks
Akrapovic EVO Kit II Exhaust
CSF WORKS 2.0 Radiator
EK 3D 520 Chain
Driven Sprockets
Graves Motorsports Manual Cam Chain Tensioner
Lacomoto Superbike Ram Air Tubes
WSBK-Spec Carbon Air Collector
High Pressure Fuel Lines
Modified Airbox

Controls and other hard parts:
Attack Performance Rearsets with short pegs
LighTech Chain Adjusters with Lifters
Apex MFG GP 50mm Clip ons
Sato Lever Guard
Motion Pro Revolver Throttle
Cox Radiator Guards
LighTech Axle Sliders
Domino SBK Grips
Tank Traction Pads
Fast Frank Racing captive/tapered billet wheel spacers

Bodywork and carbon fiber:
Lacomoto Carbon SBK Hugger
Lacomoto Carbon M1 Airbox Cover
Lacomoto Carbon Frame Covers
Lacomoto Carbon Swingarm Covers
Lacomoto Carbon M1 Front Fender
Lacomoto Carbon Case Covers
Lacomoto Pro Series Race Bodywork
Carbon Fiber Tank Sides

Removal of all unnecessary OEM items

As of March 2013:

September 2014:

January 2015:

Dyno (pre-BDK generator kit, which likely added 5-6hp):

Now, onto the build!

Here's what we had to work with initially, a clean street ridden machine (found here on R1-Forum), had about 2,000 miles and some Leo Vince exhaust. Even in stock form, it's an impressive machine to ride.

The first thing he did was ditch the OEM tires. Went with Bridgestone S20s, which were pretty nice for street tires, but didn't last very long. We then upgraded the brake lines to Spiegler, got some Carbone Lorraine XBK5 pads and Justin cut down the Leo Vince exhausts. He didn't do the prettiest job. They did sound cool though. J began researching ECU flashing and began doing testing on the bike, which helped immensely after a lot of Beta testing. Much smoother and quicker. Here's a shot of the hacked cans:1pok: Don't worry. It gets better.

Next it was time to track the R1, so focus shifted to track worthy upgrades. A full slider suite, front axle, rear adjuster blocks, no cut frame sliders and clutch cover sliders were all purchased. Also purchased were a set of Q2s since the S20's were shagged in only about 1,000 miles. Next were Vortex V2 rearsets, stomp grip, a 16T front sprocket, seat cowl, Danmoto titanium 300mm GP style slip ons, a billet race gas cap and some 55w 6000k HIDs for street riding/increased visibility. They look nice with the projectors. We also got a decent anodized brake lever to replace the speed metal junk brake lever that was on when the bike was purchased. Rick at Cogent Dynamics also adjusted the stock suspension and did a great job at tweaking the settings/setting sag. We also removed stock stuff like reflectors, front sprocket cover, passenger pegs, etc. Next was a weekend at CMP, where the R1 did great. The GP slip ons knocked something like 7lbs off of the bike. The LVs were remarkably heavy.

Next, was a new Ohlins TTX out back and a DynoJet quickshift sensor that we were able to integrate into the ECU via flashing. Also purchased was a custom LED integrated tail light with a brake light flasher. Thing is crazy bright and works very well, OEM quality unit. An Alien Motion 8 cell battery (only 1.1lbs) rounds off this series of upgrades.

Next, we got some Renthal clip ons. We also went with a Bazzaz TC unit and switched to GP shifting in the process. Starting to get there..

Next we purchased a 520 conversion kit (RK520GXW Black, Driven sprockets) with both the front and rear sprocket smaller (-2 on both), got the forks redone with Ohlins 30mm piston kit and springs and purchased some LBP titanium GP style canisters from our friend SimonKobe. These are awesome, solid titanium, beautiful welds, and the sound the crossplane deserves. We had them mated to our mids by a local performance shop.

Naturally, we installed a few of Lacomoto's awesome CF pieces on the bike, which we'd been drooling over for some time. We installed driven AIS block off plates to get a good AFR for the autotuner, got a probolt Titanium rear axle nut (dropped less than an ounce, ha) we also did the SBK style rear brake reservoir delete. While we were under the tank, we replaced the fuel line with some high pressure fuel injection hose, to avoid kinking in the fuel line we've read about. We also put some Michelin DOTs on there... unfortunately some track plans were canceled and they were mostly used up on the street, which was a bit of a waste. Bike is finally getting close to what we'd visualized initially.

Next, we got some Pirelli Superbike Pro slicks for racing and track time, some Q2s for the street. We also ditched the CL XBK5s in favor of some Vesrah RJLs, a welcome change. The XBK5 was OK, but we needed something with less fade and a bit more bite. We then installed Lacomoto's engine case covers, which are awesome. We also have our full Lacomoto racing plastics kit, which was above and beyond what we expected. All hardware is already mounted on the plastics and all stressed areas are reinforced with carbon fiber. It's very flexible and light. I was both surprised and excited to see that it included an SBK upper and larger ram air tubes. Guess we'll be doing some auto tuning at the track! Looks the part as well!

Got the race plastics on. These track plastics are awesome, I love Lacomoto stuff. No trimming was required, all hardware was preinstalled and included 1/4 turn screws with plastic washers. All mounting and stress points are visibly reinforced with carbon and lastly it's designed to remove a lot of metal pieces and other stock junk from under the seat and tail. I think the race plastics have probably dropped 20-25lbs from the bike, at least 15-17lbs in the nose alone.

The upper on the Lacomoto kit is pretty cool. It is an SBK style with larger intake ports and considerably larger ram air tubes that mount into the airbox without the rubber grommets, much like the Sharkskinz superbike kit (without the plenum of course). But it also funnels down into smaller inlets that will mount up to the stock rubber tubes. If you want to run the SBK tubes, you cut down that part and the SBK tubes go over it all. They decided to use the stock tubes initially for time reasons and fueling concerns, there won't be enough on track time to compensate for the increased airflow and get tuning done. Here are some pics, pre vinyl.


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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Things didn't go as planned unfortunately, with our first WERA race on the R1. We couldn't get a rider with experience at Barber to ride the R1, so our guy did the best he could considering he'd never been. He was still about 5 sec off the pace unfortunately. We did however get a first place on the Aprilia (Congrats Jason!) and several thirds on the Buell. It was a great weekend all in all for SBU. There are also a ton of shots from the museum, which had some awesome stuff inside. They're on our Facebook.

Next was an Ohlins damper, almost necessary for track riding.

Next, we began installing the Lacomoto superbike ram air tubes, which prior to now we left off because of time concerns. We'd been using the stock tubes mounted into the Lacomoto upper, which worked well, but more power is always good. :D

The tubes:

Rubber boots removed:

Next to the OEM counterpart:

The carbon fiber fairing stay Lacomoto supplied for the race kit is designed to accommodate the OEM tubes, if desired. As such, they had to be modified to accept the new tubes.

A little hacksaw action took care of the excess material.

Ram air tubes installed into frame/plenum

They certainly look better than the bare OEM units!

All buttoned up. (note the carbon-reinforced mounting areas on the Laco upper seen below the fairing stay)

Preliminary tests look good. AFRs were predictably lean throughout, especially so in the higher RPM region.

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The guys also installed a TC active light for the Bazzaz kit. Should be a valuable tool for tuning in/out TC.

We got a large shipment of parts in, unfortunately a few pieces were damaged in transit and unfit for sale, including a set of 09-13 R1 frame covers. We really hadn't planned on installing these, but the guys got a look at this endurance R1 and things changed..

So, instead of putting them in a corner somewhere, we decided to put them to use!

I didn't think I would like these, but I must say, they look pretty awesome!

Prepping the rotors:

The guys decided to run the Vesrah SRJL-XX pads after reading and hearing about their astounding performance. (and the amount of AMA and WSBK teams using them) They aren't cheap, but nothing great is.

Lastly, the tires we ran for the first half of the season. Pirelli SC2s in 200/60.

The guys finished up testing out the new tires and brakes at the track this weekend. It was a successful weekend overall, although from the sound of it, the rain cost several sessions worth of practice. Our rider still consistently began turning times 1.5 seconds faster than his best previous at the end of Sunday. Geoff May suggested pressures to the guys. I wish I'd gone! Here are some shots from the weekend.

Here's a short 'fly by' video from the front straight -

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
We developed our own suspension linkage that will not only add or remove ride height in the rear, but also alter the rising rate of the swingarm, potentially adding traction and drive.

The first prototype unit.

Mounted and ready for testing.

Lastly we decided to install a set of carbon fiber tank covers, to tie the airbox cover and frame covers together. StompGrip is of course mandatory!

Next, was one of my favorite upgrades:

Graves Upper and Lower Velocity stacks!

Out with the old

In with the new

Next was the master cylinder.


On (Brembo RCS19):

Sato bar end and lever guard, for improved rider safety:

Vortex frame sliders replaced the ill-fitting Ebay specials we were using prior. We removed the aluminum end-caps.

We got some Driven D-Axis Rearsets in:

As well as some Domino checkered grips:

And lastly, an MMR MM-GP spec rear rotor!


The rearsets are great, in that they are so adjustable. They only gripe we got back was that they didn't grip the way the Vortex units did, in part due to the delrin slider on the end. The Domino grips were a welcome change, they finally solved the hand numbness/excessive vibration problems. The MMR rotor is also an awesome little piece. It's the lightest we could find and it looks better than any other alternative, in my opinion.

So, with the concerns about grip on the Driven pegs, we did something a bit unorthodox.

We began looking for replacement pegs that could provide more grip. Most use a smaller bolt than the Driven, but it turns out the Vortex footpegs we liked share the same thread sizes and mount in a similar way. They're also roughly the same length.

The only issue was that the Vortex pegs had a couple of small tabs that needed to be ground off in order to mount. This was relatively simple.

Afterwards, they mounted right up! Full grip is restored.


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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
We then ordered a Driven D-AXIS fuel cap and base in titanium (cap color, not material) to replace the el-cheapo ebay special we ordered that was slowly turning orange. I really like this fuel cap. It comes off with practically no effort, only 1/4 of a turn and locks into place. Certainly a quicker job than a conventional 'race style' fuel cap.


We also opted to install a Carrozzeria/Brembo GP rear brake relocator kit. It's an awesome value for the money, includes everything needed to install, sans fluid. We opted for the black caliper, silver line. It definitely has more power and considerably more feel than stock, which is welcome with the smaller surface area MMR rotor installed. It took a while to bleed, but the lever is very firm now. Some shots:

We then finally gotten some wheels fitted. It was down to these and CA5s in carbon fiber. Alloy won out! Marchesini Genesi M7RS -

Next was the Akrapovic Evo Kit II exhaust. We were going to do this or the Graves Link Full Exhaust, but got a package deal and couldn't pass it up!

Next was an add on radiator. Great piece!

Lastly, we installed a set of LighTech chain adjusters. Awesome pieces!

We then shortened the Akras 1" to enhance sound and aesthetics a bit, but without chopping them completely.

Here are a couple of shots of the bike in 'street' trim. A detailed update is coming soon.

OK, so with the LighTech chain adjusters, we'd lost our axle block sliders, which wasn't good. Fortunately LighTech offers a very nice set of delrin axle sliders for the front and rear, with aluminum inserts with some color options.

Installation was a breeze and the style is much sleeker than those they replaced. Very light as well.

While we were in there, we opted for the Superbike Lifters, in black, also offered by LighTech for their Chain Adjusters.

We use the correct stand for the lifters, but left the spools on for situations where the lifter stand may not be handy.

Next, we installed the Galespeed / Active remote brake adjuster. This will be very helpful for overcoming fade in longer races, or track sessions, especially at Road Atlanta. For the money, the kit is an excellent value. It must be cut to length, then squaged, using supplied materials.

It wasn't a direct fit for our RCS master cylinder, which utilizes a different adjuster post than some other Brembo master cylinders, where the knob is pressed instead of held in placed by a pin.

This was an easy remedy, we simply drilled a hole in the base of the post to match the portion of the adjuster that slides over. We then used a cotter pin to secure the assembly.

Next, we installed an APE Racing Manual Cam Chain Tensioner. This was a little trickier than I initially thought. The tension on the cam chain must be just right, or the chain will jump the teeth on cam sprockets.

For the first time in the history of the bike, there's no ticking at startup and it starts on the first try cold, which is a first.

Lastly, we replaced the OEM steel subframe bolts -

- with anodized aluminum units.

The new bolts were 20g lighter each. Not a bad way to drop some weight.

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
An updated shot, with the new number plates:

The R1 had a solid weekend racing with WERA at Road Atlanta. It and our RSV4 both achieved podiums, a great weekend in all. They were practicing at Barber a week prior.


Road Atlanta:
Both of the SBU Superbikes-

Here's a cool shot from Road Atlanta -

Most recently, not much has changed. We had another race weekend with good times and we've since fitted Cox Racing radiator guards on both radiators, as well as shortened the Vortex footpegs an inch or so. I'll get some shots soon!

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4,788 Posts
An updated shot, with the new number plates:

Thanks for sharing with us. I remember seeing you at the NESBA Road Atlanta trackday in July. It was a pleasure meeting you. The bike looks fantastic. I know the "Dark Side" will kill me for saying this but maybe you want to look into a little flashier paint job, at least for a dedictated track/race bike. The bike stands out now but would do so even more with some brighter colors along with your logo and such. I had the same issue when my bike was all black in that it just kind of blends in for the photographers. Being a sponsor you want the most visibility and impact you can get. Just give Andrew Swensen a call down south and have him hook you up. https://www.facebook.com/#!/AndrewSwensonDesign

I have a painter up here that does incredible work as well but for probably much less. Of course then you have to factor in shipping. Can't wait to see what you guys do next. Looks like a "shoe in" for Nov BOTM. :fact:rock

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for sharing with us. I remember seeing you at the NESBA Road Atlanta trackday in July. It was a pleasure meeting you. The bike looks fantastic. I know the "Dark Side" will kill me for saying this but maybe you want to look into a little flashier paint job, at least for a dedictated track/race bike. The bike stands out now but would do so even more with some brighter colors along with your logo and such. I had the same issue when my bike was all black in that it just kind of blends in for the photographers. Being a sponsor you want the most visibility and impact you can get. Just give Andrew Swensen a call down south and have him hook you up. https://www.facebook.com/#!/AndrewSwensonDesign

I have a painter up here that does incredible work as well but for probably much less. Of course then you have to factor in shipping. Can't wait to see what you guys do next. Looks like a "shoe in" for Nov BOTM. :fact:rock
Thanks! That wouldn't have been me you met, probably either J or freddy. I wouldn't know what to do on that R1, my tracked out SV is more my speed. I really like the current scheme on the R1, but I do think it could pop more. It could definitely use more red or white and some metal flake. We've discussed other schemes with a white base, but I don't think it's a priority yet. There's going to be some more cool stuff coming soon.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Are both the subframe bolts the same size and thread? Or is out two different part #s

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Same part number for all 4.
How is that Alien Motion battery? Is it good with accessories like an alarm and HID relay harness?

Looking good by the way. Awesome.
Thanks! Yes, the Alien Motion batteries are great. We have been using them for over a year now. I suggest the 12 cell for a street bike with lights and such. Shoot me a PM if you'd like pricing on one.

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I'm happy to say I've got some new updates for you guys!

We decided to install a Cox Radiator Guard, to protect both our OEM and add on radiator. It's just a nice insurance policy.

Next, we opted to install a Motion Pro Revolver Throttle Kit

The kit is awesome. It gives you several options for throttle ratio and the reels are very simple to change out. We opted for the 45mm reel, which is 9 degrees quicker than the OEM 09+ R1 throttle.

We also decided to install a low-drag half lever for our RCS master cylinder.

Next was a long overdue upgrade - Proper front suspension. The Ohlins FPK and springs did very well, especially for their price point, but our rider reported needing more after the GNF and we opted to give them AMA treatment and go with the Ohlins 30mm NIX cartridge. The cartridges were modified in some areas to provide even better feel and a smoother stroke.

Our favorite road race tech, Brad, handling our installs.

Forks completed

All buttoned up!

We've got one more big update coming - Tomorrow our Superbike-Spec suspension linkages will be in!

We'll be testing the linkage this weekend at the track. I'll post up some photos when they arrive and when we get ours installed.

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Definitely. It comes with 4 different throttle speeds to try out. It's a very simple and beginner-friendly procedure to change out the throttle cams, so you can tune your throttle perfectly to your riding style.

· performance first
2,937 Posts
Will the new linkage aka triangle work with a sato adjustable linkage. Saying it now put me down for one.

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