Hi guys - I read a great article on synthetics and clutch slippage specifically in bikes, I thought I'd pass it on, it was somewhat interesting....(please respond and let me know if I should stop posting this shit or if you like it)
Obviously (hopefully) most everyone knows to NOT run synthetic oil for auto use in bikes - but alot of people don't seem to know WHY -- The result is alot of rumors about bad expriences and shit with synthetic oils and a fear of running them.
The main difference between auto and bike specific synthetic oil (blend OR staight synth) is the presense of "Molybdenum DiSulfide" in the auto oil. The compound is there to allow for even better lubrication without breakdown and to further facilitate dispersion of waste particles out with the exhaust instead of baking onto the cylinder walls -- you may recognize that molybdenum is a popular lubricant and comes in many forms, such as "molybdenum grease". It seeps into various metals and other surfaces very quickly and likes to stay put - THIS is what allows the particles to escape instead of cooking onto your engine internals in CARS. THe problem arrises when the MDS seeps into your clutch plates and overlubes them- this is where the imfamous synthetic-causes-slippage myth comes from...In fact it's no myth, but it's caused by oversite of the user, NOT by all snythetic oils. Bike synth is enginerred with other chemical compounds which still facilitate paricle dispersion and evacuation, but DO NOT adversely effect the wet clutch setup in just about all japanese sportbike (I can't name a Jap bike with a dry clutch in fact)
I've used Motul synthetic blend in the last 7 bikes I've run and have had no problems - however I'm meticulous about the break in, and insist on using non-synthetic for the first 2500 miles. I also do any oil change at 100, 300 and 600 miles, chaning the filter at 100 and 600. This helps get all that gunk out of the engine. From 600 to 2500 I use regular oil and then begin using the snythetic blend. you notice a definite difference in the response and smoothness ALSO in how clean the oil comes out. Alot of times people will mention that Ducatis come from the factory with full synthetic from 0 miles...I don't know what their reasoning is, but I haven't heard a single person give a good report about starting a japanese bike with synth from the get go. ...I have heard some problems though. Also bear in mind that Duc's are dry-clutched - so you'll never hear a story about clutch slippage in a duc resulting from oil! I've heard several cases of performance decreases in extreme heat situations where synthetic didn't allow proper wear of the cylinder walls and piston rings -- In the heat the engine would begin pinging or acting noticeable sluggish...When inspected, it appeared that heat epxansion happened at slightly different rates in the rings and in the walls...if the parts had been allowed to wear down properly in the break in, there would have been no problem - but the synthetic didn't allow for wear and this was the result was a bill for new rings and labor!
Anyway- so this is why auto synth sucks for bikes and why bike-engineered synthetics are great IF you break your engine in properly BEFORE switching! hope the little factoid helps someone out there!:no
Obviously (hopefully) most everyone knows to NOT run synthetic oil for auto use in bikes - but alot of people don't seem to know WHY -- The result is alot of rumors about bad expriences and shit with synthetic oils and a fear of running them.
The main difference between auto and bike specific synthetic oil (blend OR staight synth) is the presense of "Molybdenum DiSulfide" in the auto oil. The compound is there to allow for even better lubrication without breakdown and to further facilitate dispersion of waste particles out with the exhaust instead of baking onto the cylinder walls -- you may recognize that molybdenum is a popular lubricant and comes in many forms, such as "molybdenum grease". It seeps into various metals and other surfaces very quickly and likes to stay put - THIS is what allows the particles to escape instead of cooking onto your engine internals in CARS. THe problem arrises when the MDS seeps into your clutch plates and overlubes them- this is where the imfamous synthetic-causes-slippage myth comes from...In fact it's no myth, but it's caused by oversite of the user, NOT by all snythetic oils. Bike synth is enginerred with other chemical compounds which still facilitate paricle dispersion and evacuation, but DO NOT adversely effect the wet clutch setup in just about all japanese sportbike (I can't name a Jap bike with a dry clutch in fact)
I've used Motul synthetic blend in the last 7 bikes I've run and have had no problems - however I'm meticulous about the break in, and insist on using non-synthetic for the first 2500 miles. I also do any oil change at 100, 300 and 600 miles, chaning the filter at 100 and 600. This helps get all that gunk out of the engine. From 600 to 2500 I use regular oil and then begin using the snythetic blend. you notice a definite difference in the response and smoothness ALSO in how clean the oil comes out. Alot of times people will mention that Ducatis come from the factory with full synthetic from 0 miles...I don't know what their reasoning is, but I haven't heard a single person give a good report about starting a japanese bike with synth from the get go. ...I have heard some problems though. Also bear in mind that Duc's are dry-clutched - so you'll never hear a story about clutch slippage in a duc resulting from oil! I've heard several cases of performance decreases in extreme heat situations where synthetic didn't allow proper wear of the cylinder walls and piston rings -- In the heat the engine would begin pinging or acting noticeable sluggish...When inspected, it appeared that heat epxansion happened at slightly different rates in the rings and in the walls...if the parts had been allowed to wear down properly in the break in, there would have been no problem - but the synthetic didn't allow for wear and this was the result was a bill for new rings and labor!
Anyway- so this is why auto synth sucks for bikes and why bike-engineered synthetics are great IF you break your engine in properly BEFORE switching! hope the little factoid helps someone out there!:no
