[Tad158]

The only indicator that is left there on the edge is probably because I am coasting and not on the gas early enough. The shock is due for a refresh in the off season too.

Bp was better, but I was just off most of the weekend. I didn't drag a toe with the additional peg clearance. I only had a few fast sessions the whole weekend. The rest I was just putting. Still fun though.

 

[Tad158]

So......my starter is dead......Any good tips on pulling it out?

I also have a CABS Bliiper to install.....so any tips on that would be welcomed.....

To Do List:

1. Starter
2. Blipper
3. Rear Shock Service
4. Fork rebuild
5. Aesthetic touch-ups in wear spots
6. New Suit

 

[Gearheaded]

Go slow and steady. Everything above it comes off to take it out

 

[Gearheaded]

What suit you looking at?

 

[Tad158]

I am considering pulling the trigger on a Mithos Custom......

 

[1SpeedSteve]

Great suit choice! Friends of mine have the Mithos custom and really like them.

Are you going with an OEM starter?
Thinking about pulling mine as well to check it since I have it apart.

 

[DarkHorse]

As for the starter, the throttle bodies might feel like they are stuck. Do whatever you need to do to get it out. It will come out.

Just follow the how to on here. Straight forward. Nothing special. I completed the job in very little time.

Nothing special with the CABS blipper unless you have an aftermarket dash.

I wired mine to a shift sensor rather than using the clutch and that gave me clutchless downshifts.

I also used a constant 12v source rather than the switched 12v at the brake lever. I use a button on my button pod to turn the blipper off when I don’t want it.

A natural behavior of this blipper is that the throttle will want to move on its own (not all the time) during blips. If you hold the throttle closed during blips, it will continue to blip as normal without issue. Don’t let that scare you. You’ll get use to it.

Enjoy.

 

[Tad158]

Great suit choice! Friends of mine have the Mithos custom and really like them.

Are you going with an OEM starter?
Thinking about pulling mine as well to check it since I have it apart.

Honestly I am thinking of pulling it apart first to see if I can just put brushes in it for 56$... if the stator is junk then I will do the full oem starter.

Can you ask your friends if they found the cut tight after they were measured, or if they fit perfectly right off the bat?

 

[1SpeedSteve]

If only there was a good fix for these starters. Hopefully it's just the brushes!

This is what my one friend said about the Mithos custom:

"They don’t mess around. It was perfect! I did an air suit with them. Make sure who measures is good."

 

[Tad158]

Awesome!

 

[R1 4c8 Kango]

I would not recommend using an alternative 12volt source as the brake light is part of the safety control for this system, without it you will be able to activate the blip when accelerating resulting in who knows what outcome (not likely good). Also make sure the isolator unit is connected ( separate harness that you connect to red box) without this in the event of CAB unit failing the blip will not be cut!

pictures below of how i mounted my unit and the instructions for the 07-08 R1

A couple of notes i got from Pete the creator (top kiwi bloke!) of the CABS unit via text when i sourced my secondhand unit.
super helpful guy who even sent me some parts i was missing (for free) and gave me all the advise one could ask for.
I have asked if he could send me all the info he has on his units and if he responds i will post here for all to see.

Notes that may help from Pete:

to check the module is alive hold the red from the loom to a 12 volt battery positive and then touch the grey wire to the negative and see if you get a audible double click from the cabs box and the red light flash. The adjuster for the blip should be set in the middle of the adjustment.

the cabs is normally open and activates when it gets a ground signal. If you have a push sensor for your upshifts then you will need a pull sensor for downshifts

when you connect to the ecu, really look closely at the wiring info as it is from the ecu point of view but you can see which colours should be next to on the plug. This is the bit most people get wrong.

note i did not attach the unit as per designers instruction, i made mount out of right angle aluminium and cut to suit (mounted under brake res/clutch guide bracket) and the activation switch is bolted to the underside of the left-hand stock clip-on locating bolt hole (flat aluminium plate)

 

[DarkHorse]

I would not recommend using an alternative 12volt source as the brake light is part of the safety control for this system, without it you will be able to activate the blip when accelerating resulting in who knows what outcome (not likely good)

It doesn’t blip unless I upshift. The shift sensor is the exact same as the brake lever. They are both switches. 👀 🤦🏾‍♂️

 

[R1 4c8 Kango]

the clutch is the trigger not the brake.

 

[DarkHorse]

the clutch is the trigger not the brake.

I see what you’re saying and I understand. Many people run it with a shift sensor. I also have an On/Off button on a button pod.

I was having issues getting a good constant 12v at the brake switch. The blipper would not perform well. I think I mentioned this in my build.

 

[R1 4c8 Kango]

I think i remember reading your build and i was not trying to say the way you set it will not work but rather that doing it this way one of the safety measures has been removed. I may yet have this problem ( constant 12v ) as i have only tested my setup statically due to still working on other items on the bike. on/off switch is good idea as per standard design, mine is on the left hand side of the ignition switch in the above picture.

I believe the reason for the brake being part of the system is a safety so you have to be on them to allow the blip to activate when the clutch is pulled.

from what I understand the system can be setup in a couple of different ways, one without even using the isolator loom ( not a smart idea! ) as it is there in case of a malfunction in cabs unit.
last thing anyone wants or needs is a malfunction that is linked to the flyby wire throttle.

If i remember correctly both the brake switch and clutch switch have wires running to both the cabs unit and the isolator unit to complete the safety circuit.

i am currently speaking to Pete the designer of the system via text message on the correct way to include a shift sensor to activate the blip without bypassing any of safety measures. Once i have the information i will post for all to see.

Please DarkHorse do not take anything i am saying as an insult or an attempt to start argument I am just merely trying to share things i am learning to help others, as I continue to learn from this forum.

Sorry Tad not trying to highjack your thread.

 

[Tad158]

No hijacking here....I asked for info.

 

[R1 4c8 Kango]

okay so this is how I have been told to wire sensor in to activate the blip on downshifts from the designer of the system

wire up the cabs unit as per the standard instructions

next join/splice the one wire from the sensor into the grey wire from the cabs unit to the clutch switch

the other wire from the sensor is to be joined/spliced into the earth wire running to the bypass switch that is part of the cabs unit.

this allows the system to be shut off as per original design and keeps the clutch wired in as per instructions keeping all built in safety functions operating.

cuts below are for two different set of instruction for the 07-08 R1

the below may be of help to those with PCV

hope this helps!

if anyone has the instructions for different years/models R1&R6 please let me know as i think i will do a write up on the info i have collected for future reference for all

 

[Tad158]

The tear down begins...

Check out how much rubber made is way into the air box from the track. That big chunk was sitting up against the filter...

 

[Tad158]

Look what I found! Time to tear it apart... see what's wrong with it.

 

[Tad158]

Yep.... the starter is borked.... time to order a new one...