I remember seeing an Orient express busa that had one of those big ugly front fenders to help with aerodynamics
the quest for 200 at maxton starts today
I will be going to the maxton mile on april 5th and 6th. The ultimate goal is 200 mph i dont think ill quite get there but I would like to do everything poss. to get there. I dont want to spend a ton of money on just this but I am willing to spend a couple hundred for top speed specific parts.
my bike is a 06 r1 pushing about 210 to the back wheel with the help of a 40 shot of no2. I have a wideband commander and will be monitering a/f ratios over my runs to make sure I have plenty of fuell and hopefully dont go pop.
the ideas to help i have at this time are:
remove everything that sticks out off the bike this includes:
mirrors, bar ends, all sliders, kick stand, liscence plate, pass pegs
adding double bubble shield
hyabusa front fender ( currently searching for one)
non-o ring chain
lowering bike 1 inch
gearing 17-41 with the adjuster blocks pulled all the way back so i can get into the no2 as early as possable.
i dont think hp is where the problem will lie I believe it will all be about aerodynamics.
Ive thought about using race gas also but am a bit nervous about using race gas and no2 at the same time anyone have any thoughts and also what race gas is now making best power. I used nutec when i raced but that was a few years back and i hated that crap
I am planning on taking a stock upper and filling in the headlights so they are smooth to help aerodynamics and remove the weight of the lights
so other ideas people have would be very helpful
I will keep this thread updated with progress and ultimately what I end up running as I know many are interested in this and as far as I know no one else on the forum has attempted this
my bike is a 06 r1 pushing about 210 to the back wheel with the help of a 40 shot of no2. I have a wideband commander and will be monitering a/f ratios over my runs to make sure I have plenty of fuell and hopefully dont go pop.
the ideas to help i have at this time are:
remove everything that sticks out off the bike this includes:
mirrors, bar ends, all sliders, kick stand, liscence plate, pass pegs
adding double bubble shield
hyabusa front fender ( currently searching for one)
non-o ring chain
lowering bike 1 inch
gearing 17-41 with the adjuster blocks pulled all the way back so i can get into the no2 as early as possable.
i dont think hp is where the problem will lie I believe it will all be about aerodynamics.
Ive thought about using race gas also but am a bit nervous about using race gas and no2 at the same time anyone have any thoughts and also what race gas is now making best power. I used nutec when i raced but that was a few years back and i hated that crap
I am planning on taking a stock upper and filling in the headlights so they are smooth to help aerodynamics and remove the weight of the lights
so other ideas people have would be very helpful
I will keep this thread updated with progress and ultimately what I end up running as I know many are interested in this and as far as I know no one else on the forum has attempted this
1 - 20 of 82 Posts
I've read that some guys with busas use ceramic bearings to reduce friction, but don't know the cost for something like that.
I would lower the bike as much as is pratically possible. I am sure when you get there you will see all the "fast" bikes are slammed.
The lower you get the bike the more the front tire will help direct air away from the radiator opening, which is a brick wall to aerodynamics.
As far as race fuel and N2O, thats exactly what it's made for. I think you would be nuts to run pump gas and N2O, espically when you plan on spraying for that long a period of time.
I have had good luck with VP's MRX01. Works well with N2O, and with an octane of 98 it gives you a buffer against engine damage.
Thats what we run in my customers 07 G1K with a 50 shot.
Now I know this is going to sound retarded, but I cannot help but say it. I think your bike will go faster with the mids and lowers removed. Bikes have shit for aero anyways, and removing the mids and lowers will remove the air damn thats feeds the radiator which is a real hinderance to air.
The lower you get the bike the more the front tire will help direct air away from the radiator opening, which is a brick wall to aerodynamics.
As far as race fuel and N2O, thats exactly what it's made for. I think you would be nuts to run pump gas and N2O, espically when you plan on spraying for that long a period of time.
I have had good luck with VP's MRX01. Works well with N2O, and with an octane of 98 it gives you a buffer against engine damage.
Thats what we run in my customers 07 G1K with a 50 shot.
Now I know this is going to sound retarded, but I cannot help but say it. I think your bike will go faster with the mids and lowers removed. Bikes have shit for aero anyways, and removing the mids and lowers will remove the air damn thats feeds the radiator which is a real hinderance to air.
might close up some of ram air holes. not all of it, but partial. like u said ur biggest problem is gonna be aero. might try it with wideband and gps and see what it does once its ready. once ur there u wont have that many times to run from what i have heard. have some extra gearing..just in case bike pulls too many rpms or it wont pull high gearing. tooth or 2 difference might make difference in getting rpms and speed out of it. good luck bro!!
i feel ya man...im goin for the 600cc power adder class...07 r6 with a 40 shot....hopefully i can win it
does the vp mrx01 add power over pump gasAs far as race fuel and N2O, thats exactly what it's made for. I think you would be nuts to run pump gas and N2O, espically when you plan on spraying for that long a period of time.
I have had good luck with VP's MRX01. Works well with N2O, and with an octane of 98 it gives you a buffer against engine damage.
Thats what we run in my customers 07 G1K with a 50 shot.
Now I know this is going to sound retarded, but I cannot help but say it. I think your bike will go faster with the mids and lowers removed. Bikes have shit for aero anyways, and removing the mids and lowers will remove the air damn thats feeds the radiator which is a real hinderance to air.
i thought about removing the mids and lowers. I remeber serveral years ago someone did a test and the bike was crazy more aerodynamic without them but im sure they will make me run some type of oil catch pan. How do i do this and not make the aerodynamice even worse when removing the mids and lowers.
that ugly front fender is a ryno fender they have a website http://www.rynofender.com/ but i could not find a price but im sure they aint cheap
as far a ceramic bearings they are pricey, im not sure if they make them for my bst's and from what ive read most of the advantage comes from removing the dust seals
long how many runs have you heard you get, it will take a few runs of getting deff speed level liscences before ill even really be able to go for it. I plan on getting there by 5pm friday so i can start as soon as they do saturday am. I was hoping to do several non no2 runs saturday to see what gets me the best mph then bring on the no2 sunday
i feel ya man...im goin for the 600cc power adder class...07 r6 with a 40 shot....hopefully i can win it
cool we will have to meet up!!!
Definitely use race fuel and I would use an unleaded fuel. I have used both MS103 and MS109. They are both VP fuels. The MS103 is 103 octane, the MS109 is 109 octane. I would talk to an experianced bike engine builder, that has lots of experiance with NO2. Running too high of octane may be safer, but can reduce horse power. I would probly buy a gallon or two of multiple different fuels and then go to the dyno to see what works best, by tuning it to each fuel, not just one tune for all of the fuels. Talking to multiple fuel dealers may also help. As for the areo dynamics, I would take multiple parts with you to try out. People that have lots of experiance have a good idea of what will work and what won't, but even those people gess wrong on how well some parts will work. Also log everything you do in as much detail as possible and as accurately as possible. I do a lot of experimenting with my car, sometimes the results are what I expected, sometimes they are better, some times worse and sometimes completely unexpected results. I always log everything I do so when I have time I can go back and look at everything and try to understand what worked and why. The more runs you have with more different combinations, the better understanding you should have of the whole bike.
my ideas: some (most) have already been mentioned.
1) race fuel
2) removed mid & lowers
3)removed mirrors
4) bring choice of gearing
5) lowered as far as possible
6) cut the ends off of the clip ons to move your hands as far inward as possible
7) bring some type of hair bands or something to constrict your leathers as tight to your arms/legs as possible
8) remove front brakes altogether (rotors & calipers)
9) remove toe sliders from boots
10) remove clutch cable cover (at motor end of cable)
11) use very thin motor oil ( 0w30?)
12) bring BIG ASS bottle of nos
1) race fuel
2) removed mid & lowers
3)removed mirrors
4) bring choice of gearing
5) lowered as far as possible
6) cut the ends off of the clip ons to move your hands as far inward as possible
7) bring some type of hair bands or something to constrict your leathers as tight to your arms/legs as possible
8) remove front brakes altogether (rotors & calipers)
9) remove toe sliders from boots
10) remove clutch cable cover (at motor end of cable)
11) use very thin motor oil ( 0w30?)
12) bring BIG ASS bottle of nos
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=220642
just saw these for sale. he's entertaining offers.
the lengthened wheelbase aside from allowing earlier juice certainly couldn't hurt with stability at speed.
also on the chain, use no lube but wd40 right before your run.
have the tires aired up tight for better roll.
after removing the front brakes, just before your run pry open the pads on the rear brake so they won't be dragging.
just saw these for sale. he's entertaining offers.
the lengthened wheelbase aside from allowing earlier juice certainly couldn't hurt with stability at speed.
also on the chain, use no lube but wd40 right before your run.
have the tires aired up tight for better roll.
after removing the front brakes, just before your run pry open the pads on the rear brake so they won't be dragging.
i remember a magazine doing speed tests, and they duct taped up the top of the riders boots to his leathers and gained 2 k.p.h. and lifting his bum slightly off the seat at near maximum speed also helped the speed too. it helps the aerodynamics which ends up being the limiting factor.
a lot of good suggestions........good luck!
wow thanks!!my ideas: some (most) have already been mentioned.
1) race fuel
2) removed mid & lowers
3)removed mirrors
4) bring choice of gearing
5) lowered as far as possible
6) cut the ends off of the clip ons to move your hands as far inward as possible
7) bring some type of hair bands or something to constrict your leathers as tight to your arms/legs as possible
8) remove front brakes altogether (rotors & calipers)
9) remove toe sliders from boots
10) remove clutch cable cover (at motor end of cable)
11) use very thin motor oil ( 0w30?)
12) bring BIG ASS bottle of nos
can not remove brakes as you have limited time to stop
I though about the thin oil, but was concerned about my motor. I know some race teams use 0 weight oil but i think they set the clearances in the motor with it in mind and they rebuild often. Anyone with any input??
also thought about after market clipons, but i think when I fill in the headlights on the upper ill extend the sides a little so it moves the air out past the handlebars
I hadnt really thought about my boots before ill see if i can make my leathers fit over my boots and deff remove the toe slider
clutch protecter good idea
im going to try my hand at bodywork and make a big hump on the extra tail section i have. If this works I will be able to fit a larger bottle of NO2. If not im stuck with 1 lb which will be the limiting factor in how early I can get into the juice. I have ridden with the 17/41 gearing and with the chain adjusted all the way back I can get into the no2 in 2nd without the bike wanting to flip. I imagine it would be even better lowered.
I contacted ryno fender. Its $200 for the fender. Not sure if i want to spend that on it. Maybe I could try making something similiar??
2
upper fairing part 1
heres what ive done to my spare upper fairing so far, filled in headlight, extended sides so my hands and controlls are behind fairing, obviously have to fill in with body filler to smooth out. I want to wait till I get the rule book to finish. If I have to run a belly pan then im going to attach the mids permenantly to the upper and fill the seams so there will be less areas that cause turbulance.
also have a hyabusa front fender coming that im going to make fit and make something similiar to a ryno fender out of.
i sent out for my liscence and i will get the rule book with it so we shall see.
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heres what ive done to my spare upper fairing so far, filled in headlight, extended sides so my hands and controlls are behind fairing, obviously have to fill in with body filler to smooth out. I want to wait till I get the rule book to finish. If I have to run a belly pan then im going to attach the mids permenantly to the upper and fill the seams so there will be less areas that cause turbulance.
also have a hyabusa front fender coming that im going to make fit and make something similiar to a ryno fender out of.
i sent out for my liscence and i will get the rule book with it so we shall see.
Good luck man! I don't understand why they care about a belly pan anyway. Going 160+ mph, if the drain plug falls out, oil is going to go everywhere reguardless :fact
If you really want to hit over 200mph I can refer you to my buddy. He does it on a ZX12, bodywork has not been altered in any way, just a carbon fiber tail, wheels and what not , he is going for 220mph now. He does a lot of top end runs and races lol.
His name is Ali and works at www.rnrcycles.com if you talk to him or call him tell him Carnage sent you.
He can tell you the proper gearing required, a/f mixture, body posture etc...
His name is Ali and works at www.rnrcycles.com if you talk to him or call him tell him Carnage sent you.
He can tell you the proper gearing required, a/f mixture, body posture etc...
If you really want to hit over 200mph I can refer you to my buddy. He does it on a ZX12, bodywork has not been altered in any way, just a carbon fiber tail, wheels and what not , he is going for 220mph now. He does a lot of top end runs and races lol.
His name is Ali and works at www.rnrcycles.com if you talk to him or call him tell him Carnage sent you.
He can tell you the proper gearing required, a/f mixture, body posture etc...
:lol you just confused the hell out of me, I read it fast and the website looked like www.mrcycles.com .........I was like wtf there's no one that works here on a zx12 :hammer:
1 - 20 of 82 Posts
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