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Discussion Starter #1
Hello I bought a 08 R1 with 50K on it in June. The previous owner did a full check up on it in December where the battery was replaced and a number of other minor maintenance things. I've put about 3K on it commuting back and forth to work and going down to TJ from San Diego so far.

Issue: When riding for any amount of time and the temp is 200 or higher on the gauge if I stop the bike or kill it(happening pretty frequently as I still get used to the clutch and throttle on this thing) when it goes to start it really struggles and I loss power briefly and after 3-4 seconds it does start. It is very consistently doing this when its hot. Also it does not do this if I go for ride stop somewhere to eat for 30-60 minutes and then start the bike up and the temp is like 150 on the gauge. note: cold starting it cranks real hard and starts without issue everytime. I'm concerned one times its not going to start when it does this and I'm going to get stuck somewhere.
I'll try and get a video when i head home today as well so you can see exactly what its doing.
Troubleshooting: none so far going to check voltage this weekend on the battery. Looking for suggestions of what else to check.
 

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So update bought a new battery to see if that was the problem. Installed it started it up cold like normal, let it just idle for about 10-15 minutes. Shut it down and then same problem. Also I noticed the battery was not hot at all.
 

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Next I'll be testing the restistance and voltage drop between the solinoid and switch relay on the starter.
 

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I'll definitely test out the starter too then. At this point I'm going to test everything before replacement parts. Were you able to find a decent priced starter somewhere? I've seen online just briefly there about $200+
 

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“Rhinestone Cowboy” MF Doom
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I'll definitely test out the starter too then. At this point I'm going to test everything before replacement parts. Were you able to find a decent priced starter somewhere? I've seen online just briefly there about $200+
$200 is better than $500 which about average price for the 09-14 R1.

I think I paid close to $300 for mine though.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So this weekend I tore into the bike and pulled the starter. using this video
to get idea of what a good or bad starter sounds like I did a self test with a jumper cable and a battery. Starter sounded fine. So then I pulled the positive cable and the main ground wire out and tested them with the starter. I got inconsistent results of getting the starter to move. So it looks like I'm getting voltage drop on the wires. Now why this happens when hot but not cold I'm not sure and I have no idea how to test that. I thought about blasting it with a heat gun for a while then trying a self test on a battery but after the inconsistent results testing the cables I'm going to just replace them. Instead of buying ones online or from the local yamaha dealer I'm just going to get some made at a local battery company. I'll probably have an update friday.
 

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clean the contacts of the cables and apply some silicone grease to the surfaces and they should be fine. it could be worn out bad contacting brushes or shitty bushings in there no grease and its partially seizing up when its hot and the metal has expanded. you should only run the starter for 20 seconds max in the bike at a time but out of the bike with no resistance you can freewheel it for longer. the few times i have had an issue like yours i took the starter out and freewheeled it to see how it reacted. bad starters usually get hot quickly and a good condition one will stay cool when freewheeling. since you have it apart this far i would try that and see if the starter is showing signs of internal resistance. this isn't the most scientific method here but its simple. I'm not sure if they make rebuild kits for this year or not but it may be worth looking into. usually even a service like emery cloth the armature and clean it out and regrets it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the ad
clean the contacts of the cables and apply some silicone grease to the surfaces and they should be fine. it could be worn out bad contacting brushes or shitty bushings in there no grease and its partially seizing up when its hot and the metal has expanded. you should only run the starter for 20 seconds max in the bike at a time but out of the bike with no resistance you can freewheel it for longer. the few times i have had an issue like yours i took the starter out and freewheeled it to see how it reacted. bad starters usually get hot quickly and a good condition one will stay cool when freewheeling. since you have it apart this far i would try that and see if the starter is showing signs of internal resistance. this isn't the most scientific method here but its simple. I'm not sure if they make rebuild kits for this year or not but it may be worth looking into. usually even a service like emery cloth the armature and clean it out and regrets it helps.
Thanks for the advise I'll give that a try. I think i'll rig up a switch so i can run it better then just touch the casing to the negative on the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Sunday I was able to get some time to put the bike back together and now the problem is resolved. Bike starts just fine hot or cold now. So I replaced the main ground wire and the position lead to the starter that comes off the starter solenoid which fixed the problem. Again I didn't use OEM lines I had some made at a local battery company. Cost $10 for both lines vs about $40 or more for the OEM ones. To replace the lines you'll need to take off the seat, the gas tank, the airbox, the velocity stacks. You'll mostly just need a 5mm hex wrench. Make sure you have long hex wrenches to get the stacks off. Its a tight fit and a socket with a hex head might not fit. At this point you should be able to get to the positive lead on the starters, but you might need to take off the coolant line in the way to give yourself more room and this will allow you to take the starter out if you want to check it out of the bike. Also I did make a small cut into the heat shield to get the starter out since its connected between the throttle body. If you make a small 1/2 inch cut you can fold it back and get to the starter still. This won't affect the heat shield as it folds right back into place.

So something I didn't mention earlier is what the problem actual is. So this is a voltage drop problem. Somewhere in either the positive or ground wire there is resistance causing more then a 0.5 volt drop. This is impossible to test with the starter in the bike because you need to test it under load. Setting your meter to DC volt will give you incorrect readings if you don't do this while the starter is spinning. Also a resistance test won't work because the lines are strained and you'll only be testing the one good path you have in the line. So with the starter out of the bike hook up the positive to the lead on the top of the starter and either wire up a switch or touch the casing to the negative of a battery. Then with DC volt set on your meter test each wire end to end. Using a switch will make this easier or having someone help you. In my case having done some research on voltage drop and slow crank issues on cars I just tested the wires outside the bike on the starter and when it didn't want to spin the starter ever time I knew the wiring was bad.

Another thing to remember which I forgot when putting it back together is to burp your coolant system if you disconnect the coolant line. On my test right my coolant temp was all over the place and climbed super fast.

Last thing I have fix now is another problem that cropped up on the last test ride. My turn signals and brake lights are on solid and won't blink. I think on the main ground there is a ring with 4 small leads which might not be getting good ground. My new ground lead has much thicker ring and needs to be bent slightly to allow the screw to sit completely down. I thought It was fine but guess not. Easy to fix but I ran out of day light so I'll take care of it tonight.
 
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