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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm doing a valve adjustment on my 2012 Yamaha R1 that I just bought a couple weeks back. 9 out of the 16 are completely out of the range! WOW. I knew I probably had an issue but jeez. Anyways, here is a photo of the values. Red marker is the value range they should be in, black pen is the values they are at now. My question is. On Valve set #1 on the Exhaust (Ex) side (very top left of picture). The range should be between 0.23mm - 0.27mm. If I stick the gauge tool in there to try and figure out the value, literally .04mm won't even fit in there, and that's the thinnest gauge I have. Even if you go to Valve set #2 on the Exhaust side, they are both .04. That seems crazy off to me. All of them on the Exhaust side are way off (by .10mm or more) but those are extreme. Just wondering what you guys think about that, if anything. Not sure if that is a concern or not, it being that far off and all. I'm still waiting on my shims, should be coming tomorrow, just wanted to get your thoughts before I finish this tomorrow and close her back up. Thanks

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Leakdown test #1. They might be bent.
I hope not! I'm not too familiar with how this all works and how the valves work and what not, but this is a good time for me to learn. I'll definitely start looking into getting my hands on a testing kit for doing a leakdown test. So what you're saying is that if the bucket is hitting the camshaft, then the valve has nowhere to go and is bending? I need to do research on this so I can better understand the leakdown test I'll have to do. Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That is an extreme measurement.
Yeah really glad I decided to do this. It has an issue with cold starts and once I start the bike up and head down the street to my first couple stop signs and red lights, I pull in the clutch to start breaking and the bike will also die then as well. Once everything is nice and hot after a few minutes, it stops doing this. These two things got me thinking that maybe the valves need to be adjusted. But jeez they are way off though, definitely wasn't expecting it to be like this!
 

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I hope not! I'm not too familiar with how this all works and how the valves work and what not, but this is a good time for me to learn. I'll definitely start looking into getting my hands on a testing kit for doing a leakdown test. So what you're saying is that if the bucket is hitting the camshaft, then the valve has nowhere to go and is bending? I need to do research on this so I can better understand the leakdown test I'll have to do. Thanks for the help.
That's about the size of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Okay I did all my calculations. There are 9 that I must change, and 5 optional, so total of 14 out of the 16... yikes, glad I bought the larger pack of shims lol

My question is, for most of the optional ones, I have options on which shim I can use. For example, lets say the range I need to be in is 0.11mm - 0.20mm. I have the option to either have it at 0.13mm or 0.18mm. Which one is better? Other example I have is 0.15mm or 0.17mm with the same range. One at 0.14mm or 0.18mm. And one at 0.13mm or 0.18mm. What is best to go when making this decision? My shims can only be bought in increment's of .05mm so I have to weigh my options.
 

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"The range should be between 0.23mm - 0.27mm. If I stick the gauge tool in there to try and figure out the value, literally .04mm won't even fit in there"

My input on this is second hand, never shimmed valves; but it sounds like you are attempting to use a shim of over .2mm?

I would get an overabundance of information before continuing, when I got my valves adjusted the mechanic shimmed very few of the cylinders and they were almost within spec at about 30k miles. That's on my 05r6 though; pretty sure he didn't go over .5mm on any of the shims

From what I remember about measurements; you wanna be closer to the "max" so it wears throw the lower number and continues till it's eventually out of spec
 

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Okay I did all my calculations. There are 9 that I must change, and 5 optional, so total of 14 out of the 16... yikes, glad I bought the larger pack of shims lol

My question is, for most of the optional ones, I have options on which shim I can use. For example, lets say the range I need to be in is 0.11mm - 0.20mm. I have the option to either have it at 0.13mm or 0.18mm. Which one is better? Other example I have is 0.15mm or 0.17mm with the same range. One at 0.14mm or 0.18mm. And one at 0.13mm or 0.18mm. What is best to go when making this decision? My shims can only be bought in increment's of .05mm so I have to weigh my options.
Run the exhaust at the max, run the intake at the median.

The exhaust are prone to expansion more than the intake are because the intake get cooled by fresh air fuel mix every other cycle, unlike the exhaust, getting roasted every other cycle.

Less gap means the valve opens wider. I run the intake at median so I can draw more through because I'm less worried about the valves expanding under load. With the exhaust, I want all the gap I can get because I figure they're gonna stretch.

With no gap, you run the risk of cutting or blowing out valve seats and bending valves. Which is, bad. That's why I said leak down #1 to see if they are bent, or cut. Hopefully you caught her in time, but, if she's already presenting problems running, that head may be done bro.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just want to make sure I'm not misunderstanding. When you guys say "max", you're talking max gap? So for example I would pick the .12mm instead of the .19mm when deciding what shim I want to use. Just want to make sure you aren't talking about picking the max value, which would be .19mm.
12mm correct?

One more question. Lets say my range is 0.23mm - 0.27mm and I have the option to either be at 0.23mm or 0.28mm which is slightly out of the range. If you're saying run the Exhaust at the max, should I go with the 0.28mm even though it is out of range, or go with the 0.23mm which is in range but at the very lowest.
 

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If your choice is .009 inches gap and .011 gap (I think that's right if memory serves) go for .011 on the exhaust. So if your current shim measures .025 and your current gap is .007, you want a shim that measures .021. I hope that's crystal clear.

Also, I don't use metric. All my instruments are imperial.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
On the exhaust side (range 0.23mm - 0.27mm) I have 3 examples where I can either be at 0.23mm or 0.28mm. I think I'll go with the 0.28mm and sand paper the shim down to make them 0.27mm... B/c seeing how far off these are, it scares me to put this bike back together with 3 of them being at the very bottom of the range.
 

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On the exhaust side (range 0.23mm - 0.27mm) I have 3 examples where I can either be at 0.23mm or 0.28mm. I think I'll go with the 0.28mm and sand paper the shim down to make them 0.27mm... B/c seeing how far off these are, it scares me to put this bike back together with 3 of them being at the very bottom of the range.
Don't sand a shim if one has to be ground, take it to a machine shop with a surface grinder.

For perspective, can you tell me exactly what fraction of a human hairs width measures .05mm? Point I'm driving at is that you're literally splitting hairs here bud.

Go with the top end of spec at 28. She'll be a little noisy on startup, but, she'll stretch when she gets warm and fall in range. Over time, she'll wear in.

Don't forget to lube the journals and the shims and the valve keepers and the buckets with some molybdenum disulfide grease bud. With the valve keepers, just squeeze a hair of grease in before you land the shim. It ain't gotta be overly complicated.
 

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Very good point. I was imagining .1mm lol

Gotta apologize, my first instinct was a over reaction when I actually think about the numbers... Valve train is just very scary... At 15k rpm those cams are spinning 30k rpm; a lot going on in there
 

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Very good point. I was imagining .1mm lol

Gotta apologize, my first instinct was a over reaction when I actually think about the numbers... Valve train is just very scary... At 15k rpm those cams are spinning 30k rpm; a lot going on in there
Mechanical slop is less than ideal. We strive for the ideal. Sometimes a little imperfection has to be tolerated. The problem is in understanding what can be tolerated.

As you point out, these engines absolutely scream. Furthermore, it being an interference engine makes things that much more sensitive. At the end of the day though, 1/16th of a hair's breadth is trivial. Sometimes I question the accuracy of our gauges at such extremes.
 

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On the exhaust side (range 0.23mm - 0.27mm) I have 3 examples where I can either be at 0.23mm or 0.28mm. I think I'll go with the 0.28mm and sand paper the shim down to make them 0.27mm... B/c seeing how far off these are, it scares me to put this bike back together with 3 of them being at the very bottom of the range.
You're dealing with .05mm increments most likely because you bought a generic shim kit (like most of us). If I'm not mistaken you can buy specific shims from Yamaha at exactly the size you need. That being said, I agree with @Numbers - go loose on the exhaust and median on the intakes. A lot of local shops around here will do trade-ins for shims. I bring them 2 shims and they give me 1.
 
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