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Discussion Starter #1
(98 R1) valve clearances have started measuring the clearances , in the manual it states to go turn crank counter clockwise when needing to measure the other clearances , is this a printing error ???? the reason I am questioning this is that number 1 cylinder clearances get measured at TDC on compression stroke (cam lobes pointing outwards ) and if i turn crank by required degrees counter clockwise this does not happen on number 2 cylinder (or any of the others as crank is turned ) but if I turned the crank clockwise by the same degrees this would be happen (and so on for the rest of the cylinders) .


2nd question being a total twat i turned the crank with both cams in and no camchain tensioners in ,obviously it slipped and jammed , there was not to much force but i"m wondering a) could i have done any damage as some of my original clearance measurement are different and now out of tolerance or is this quite usual after the cams have come out?(4 extra inlets are now out of spec -not enough clearance when it was originally 2) b) does it matter which revolution of the crank i set the cams back up on , surely both revolutions are identical and the compression stroke can be set on either by installation of the cams or will this bugger up the ignition timing if on wrong revolution.



3rd question ) on re-installing the cams the marking that line up with camshaft cap arrows seem always to be slightly out , i have managed to get bit exact but the camchain does not sit so well on the sprockets , it rides high as if stretched but fits perfectly on sprockets if timimg marks are slightly out - advice please

Just learning and finding out the hardway any help appreciated
 

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Hi Taster.:hellobye

No this is not a printing error!:no

The valve clearence can be checked by turning the crank
either way as long as the lobes are laying perfectly on their sides.
But I would do as the manual states.

If the valve seats were reground or lapped this could cause the valve clearence to be less than before. Also if the valve seats were covered with carbon deposits. By removing the carbon deposits you get less clearence because the valve closes slightly more.

As for turning the engine without the tensioner installed, well not a good idea.
The clearences between the piston and the valves might be Zero and so by turning the engine without the tensioner puts the valve train out of synchronization with the crankshaft causing the top of the piston to contact the valves.
You state that you did't need to apply much force to turn the crank once you felt resistance. I wouldn't worry about damage to the valves or pistons.

But I would inspect the timing chain, cam sprockets, and the crank sprocket for damage.

Alright. Now as for the alignment of the cams. Do as the manual says. Align the camshaft punch marks with the arrows checking to see that the #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke.
Align the pickup coil rotor with the block(as stated in the manual).
And don't forget to install the timing chain tensioner which has an up mark on it.

Any way all this to say that if you follow the manual and ask for some help you'll be ok.

Take you're time and do it right. :thumbup

I hope this helps you out.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for reply , I"ve gone out and had another go and if i turn the crank counterclockwise (as manual states) after measuring no 1 cylinder by 180- degrees the lobes point up and there appears to be no clearance ? got to be a printing error????



aligning the cams!!. The problem I have with this is as the crank has been turned and the cams haven"t I have lost the only way the manual states of finding TDC in no 1 cylinder on the compression stroke . As the full combustion process of a four stroke is 720 degree rotation of the crank this gives two TDC"s, one is compression .I have no idea which is the compression stroke on no 1 cylinder and the manual does not show anyway of finding it . would it matter on which revolution I align the cams , would this then determine which is the compression stroke??
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yes
 

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YZFR1
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I have an 03, and it is the same, counterclockwise (normal running direction). You rotate through to measure each cylinder, the manual is correct. Basically when the lobes are up that is when you measure the journal to lifter/bucket with your feeler gauge. You need to get a degreeing kit (dale walker holeshot degreeing kit). It has a positive stop for finding TDC. You yourself determine the compression stroke when you align the cams, so no it doesn't matter which TDC you use.
P.S. which side of the engine are you rotating from? should be on the left side of the engine (stator side) if your rotating from the rotor pickup or right side then yes it would be clockwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
jumped lots of teeth so tried to reset it by turning it back and lifting the chain gave up on this so removed the cams to realign but by this time forgot about the crank position (I know, utter plank ) Thanks
 

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MikeBks - cheers for reply ,yes I am turning the crank from the rotor pickup. this is the only side it mentions and it says clo ckwise to find TDC initially but sounds like your right , a bit misleading for us amateurs. You mention a Degreeing kit. can"t I just use the marks on the rotorpickup as the manual states.
You also mention that aligning the cams to any TDC would determine the compression stroke , I know this sounds stupid (and I am) but how does the ignition system know I"ve changed the TDC ??
 

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YZFR1
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Eyeballing it should work, but I feel comfortable knowing I have found TDC using the positive stop method. You are not changing TDC, it is cyclical, what you are changing theoretically is the compression stroke on which particular cyclical TDC. Since it is cyclical in this manner the electronics only need to know when to fire in relation to TDC and valve alignment but not on any particular cycle. You will note the manual says nothing about choosing a particular cycle, and I am not sure how you would determine such a thing anyways. Remember, the rotor is attached to the crank and this determines firing in relation to TDC, which is aligned with the rotor mark and the case split point. what this means is electronic firing and crank position doesn't change unless you put the rotor on incorrectly, which is hard to do as it should have a pin and slot alignment. The rest , if using stock cams is to align the dots and arrows while the rotor mark and case split are aligned. I say case split as this is where my case marking is, yours could be different, but is probably the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I"m still waiting for some more shims before refitting cams - two more clearances that were within tolerance aren"t any longer - both gone tighter, must be to do with the amount of times the cams have been in an out . I feel a lot more confident now and i"ll let you know how I get on -- thanks for all the advice and info - bloody brilliant !!!!!!!!
 
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