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I have a new 2014 R1 and can't wheelie. Is there anything on the new R1's that make it difficult to wheelie? I can get the tire maybe four or five inches of the ground at times but thats it. The bike just wants to squat and pull hard but getting the front tire off the ground not happening.:newbie: Any suggestions would be helpful.
 

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On my 2012 anything over TC level four you will not have the ability to wheelie. Maybe your TC is keeping your front wheel down.
 

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If you can't do a wheelie then don't start ,everytime I get on my bike I can't help myself from doing one bad habit to start if you get caught its reckless driving and cops today want to take your license away and are very much pricks about it !!!!!! Been there done that and paid dearly $$$$$$$$$ not to lose it for 60,90 or a year
 

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You can do a wheelie even on a postie bike and unless your bike has a wheelie control it is a rider problem. TC will not stop a wheelie from happening. My suggestion (if you really must do it) is to find a quite road or a parking lot and practice starting with powerwheelies and only then progress to clutchies. Changing the sprocket drive ration also helps - 1 down at the front and 4-5 up at the back. It make it easier (less twitchy) to control. Practice makes perfect. HOWEVER you are guaranteed to drop the bike at some point so think about it carefully and decide if it is all worth it.

PS. Under no circumstances try to snap the throttle or it will bite you even in 3rd. It must be fast but smooth throttle action.
 

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More throttle :scared

But seriously get a bike that you don't care if you wreck and practice in a empty area.

Any liter bike will wheelie with ease. I am guessing it is your self preservation kicking in.
 

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My R1 go to warp drive
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The easiest way to control wheelie these monsters is open throttle hard, roll off, then roll on again which will make the front go up at the same speed as you're rolling on. So if you roll on fast it's going up just as fast but and if you roll on too slow you may not have enough power to bring the bike up. Play with it and you'll get it.
 

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TC will definitely stop wheelies. Anything on level four or higher on the '12 will prevent wheelies. Can't speak for the '14.
 

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TC will definitely stop wheelies. Anything on level four or higher on the '12 will prevent wheelies. Can't speak for the '14.
That statement does not compute. TC is about wheel spin and it will not stop the wheelie. For that there is a launch control and anti wheelie. I am sure Moto GP riders have they TC above 4 and somehow they do wheelies all the time :deal2:
 

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TC will definitely stop wheelies. Anything on level four or higher on the '12 will prevent wheelies. Can't speak for the '14.
That statement does not compute. TC is about wheel spin and it will not stop the wheelie. For that there is a launch control and anti wheelie. I am sure Moto GP riders have they TC above 4 and somehow they do wheelies all the time
https://ultimatemotorcycling.com/2011/12/05/2012-yamaha-r1-traction-control-review/

I'm telling you when you open it up the tire raises a few inches off the ground and gently sets back down. Probably not his issue. Don't take my word for it. Maybe my bike is busted?? Traction control setting four is where this happens for me. I don't care to wheelie so it doesn't bother me.

I guess according to the article it is level 5. Technically off is considered a level.
 

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On our street test, the R1 was wearing its original equipment Dunlop Q2s, and in Standard mode the TC level was set to 6 (maximum). Incidentally, Level 6 and 5 on the TC also inhibit wheelies; it’s not true wheelie control per se, but the intrusion level is enough that as the front wheel comes up a speed mismatch is detected and the power is rapidly pulled back. The system is so sensitive and reacts so quickly, that even with the front tire just skimming the road the power is tempered enough to prevent any real lift-off.

From the article. Makes sense. Pretty cool
 

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Get to the chopppaaa!
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Shifu, same issue with my '14. The TC on it WILL inhibit but will not completely stop it. I can turn it off and it helps immensly.

OP: More throttle...
 

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You can do a wheelie even on a postie bike and unless your bike has a wheelie control it is a rider problem. TC will not stop a wheelie from happening. My suggestion (if you really must do it) is to find a quite road or a parking lot and practice starting with powerwheelies and only then progress to clutchies. Changing the sprocket drive ration also helps - 1 down at the front and 4-5 up at the back. It make it easier (less twitchy) to control. Practice makes perfect. HOWEVER you are guaranteed to drop the bike at some point so think about it carefully and decide if it is all worth it.

PS. Under no circumstances try to snap the throttle or it will bite you even in 3rd. It must be fast but smooth throttle action.
In all honesty I wouldn't suggest trying to pull up and hold a power wheelie as your first option. You either can't pull it up enough to maintain it or you end up hitting your power band and scooping massive torque while still holding a steady throttle. Meaning, though you may feel like you should progress your pull steadily due to steady input, the torque/RPM changes and balance point changes causing your output to change with the same exact input. Which, when you're unprepared for / not practiced with, will scoop your rear out from under you and you will already be at higher speeds. No bueno :crash

Practicing and learning clutch ups first actually gives you the opportunity to learn your balance points and throttle control in smaller bursts at lower speeds. Err on the side of caution regardless and slowly bring your RPMS up because over doing it will definitely scoop you, though you'll at least be at lower speeds. For me sitting at about 35 mph in second gear I easily pull the front up clutching up to around 8-9k RPMs before popping it. It is all one quick smooth motion and seemingly violent but you learn it and you'll start hearing and feeling where you need to be. Wear your gear and practice safely :yea:
 

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Oh and I wouldn't suggest doing 4 or 5 teeth on your rear sprocket. Adjust your TC and try a -1 tooth in the front sprocket and a +2 in the rear sprocket with a quality 520 chain (16T front / 47T rear @ MotoMummy.com) and the bike's low/mid range torque will come alive having no trouble picking your front end up. Anything more than that will just start making any sort of riding very uncomfortable and overly responsive IMO.

This thread and sub forum might help as well: http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82565
 

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Dropping Gears to disappear
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I have a 2014 R1 as well, I've learned from videos and practice that TC control at 3 doing a clutch up at low speeds in first gear while sitting back on the seat is easy. My bike is stock like yours because I can't really justify buying new cogs and such before the stock ones are wore out.
My setup for a wheelie is this: private road, standard mode, cover the brake, twist your wrist a little further up for more twist on the throttle, sit back on the seat, use one or two fingers for clutch, have bike around 20 mph get ready for the bike to come up (mentally prepare), pull clutch twist throttle release clutch while keeping throttle position ( all happens really quick), be ready to roll the throttle off or hit the rear brake if it comes up to high. My recommendation is to twist throttle a little bit at a time until you learn the rpm range it takes to bring up the front.
YOU DO NOT NEED WIDE OPEN BOUNCING THE NEEDLE THROTTLE TWIST.
 
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