[dfire]

Who has done a -1 ,+2 gearing change, tell me about the results please

I haven't talked to anyone who has done this on an '01, and would really like some real world opinions.

I just bought new chain and sprockets, I ended up going +2 in the rear because I really need some extra torque from stops(I am way heavy 262lbs. plus gear) I am still thinking about dropping one the front, but the only info sofar is from the naysayers who claim the 120 top speed crap. What is tha actual top speed after -1,+2? How bad are the vibes at highway speeds? I the gear reduction usable or is it trying to yank the front wheel in third and fourth?



Thanks
-D

 

[kicky1]

re gearing change

Hi I ran -1/+2 on my 2000 model R1 without any real problems or drawbacks.

with regard to top speed figures with the new gearing e.t.c i can tell you that i used to be able to get the speedo to indicate in excess of 184mph before hitting the limiter in top.

with the new gearing and speedo healer removing the speedo error caused by the gearing change and removing 5% orignal speedo error i was able to hit 165 mph on the limiter in top gear.

so to sum up your bike will still pull to the dark side of 150mph althought fuel consumption suffered slightly but still able to get 140 miles on 1 tank of fuel cruising at 70+mph.

natrally the bike will want to lift the front a bit more but even with all my mods i had on my own bike it was still easily managable but could lift the front on the power in 3rd gear but my bike dyno'd 152bhp static on my local dyno at the rear wheel with nearer 160 bhp with the ram air conversion.

the only draw back is you do go through the gears pretty quickly...

worth doing in my opinion as lets be honest who need to do more than 150mph on the roads and the extra shove of the bottom end is always usefull just be carefull if launching hard from a standstill as it will come up very quick in the first couple of gears when accelerating hard.

hope this helps

regards

Dave

 

[Scrat2004]

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

Use this, save you any guessing.....it works...

 

[dfire]

:epimpThanks for the info, a top of 165 MPH +/- is fine for the streets, the fastest I go is 145-155 anyways :fact (private roadways of course ) well I'll see what the +2 rear does first, and if need be I will drop the front -1 without fear of the unexpected. :nforc:


Thanks a lot guys,

This forum is the one of the best sites I have ever found, so much info availiable.

-David

 

[dionw]

If you never go over 150mph then you'll love. Personally, I hated it. I couldn't even outrun the 600's on top end. I like two up on the rear sprocket much better.

 

[kicky1]

re gearing change

i cant beleive you would have problems leaving 600's behind as they would be left for dead on acceleration alone with the -1 +2 gearing on your R1 is all i can say is with a similar top speed to a 600 you should have been able to smoke a 600.

perhaps you should review the roads you ride as anyone can hold a bike wide open on a straight road far better to drop the top speed and find twistier routes to ride which are far more fun anyway.

but remember a well ridden modern 600 on the right road is a serious bit of kit with the right rider on board.

regards

Dave

 

[timritchieblue]

ive been runing -1, +2 and love it!!! im going to order a 47 (+4) in the rear, top speed is just tickets, i ride with a couple of 600's and wheelie past them at 80+, lots of fun!!

 

[1hander]

depends on what track your at, gear for the track....

 

[dfire]

Chain and sprockets came in to day:

I wanted to get strong drivetrain parts, and I think I did just that.

-16 Tooth renthal
-45 Tooth sprocket specialties (steel)
-EK 530 ZVX2 Qudra-ring

Question:
Will the stock chain guard accomodate the larger rear sprocket or will I have to pull it?

 

[dionw]

i cant beleive you would have problems leaving 600's behind as they would be left for dead on acceleration alone with the -1 +2 gearing on your R1 is all i can say is with a similar top speed to a 600 you should have been able to smoke a 600.

perhaps you should review the roads you ride as anyone can hold a bike wide open on a straight road far better to drop the top speed and find twistier routes to ride which are far more fun anyway.

but remember a well ridden modern 600 on the right road is a serious bit of kit with the right rider on board.

regards

Dave

I think it had more to do with the +4 degree ignition advancer I had on my bike. I didn't realize how much it was hurting my top end until I took it off. Bike pulls much harder now all the way to redline. But yeah that gearing is a beast in the twisties. Gotta be real careful with the front end coming up under hard acceleration though.

 

[timritchieblue]

chain gaurd will be fine, looks better with off?

 

[Scrat2004]

I had a 15/48 before with a 520chain....only for track use but tried it on the road, bike limits for nothing in 6th, wheelie like crazy, short shifting like a 2-stroke...did not like it, to much work and begging to see my ass...:bash

Want fun, I would not go that extreme, shortshifting becomes boring after awhile....leave the front 17 then up the rear to around 50, no more.

With a smaller front sprocket your chain will take much more strain so keep that inmind if you going to run a 520....

Before I forget, go to small up front and you going to wear your swing arm protector away really fast and depending how small you go, will end up with a chain against swingarm, place where the swingarm connects to the frame.

 

[kicky1]

Dionw



"I think it had more to do with the +4 degree ignition advancer I had on my bike. I didn't realize how much it was hurting my top end until I took it off. Bike pulls much harder now all the way to redline. But yeah that gearing is a beast in the twisties. Gotta be real careful with the front end coming up under hard acceleration though."

my own bike also had a 4 degree ignition advancer fitted and back to back on the dyno it pulled harder everywhere with the full system /ram air e.t.c that mine had fitted although i did have to modifiy my micron serpent headers to make everything work just right... and even then fueling was off below 4krpm. but you cant always have your cake and eat it.

everyone is entitled to there own opinion on life and what suits one doesn't always suit an other.

good to see loads of relevant advice and comments being offered right here in this thread though..

regards

Dave

 

[dionw]

my own bike also had a 4 degree ignition advancer fitted and back to back on the dyno it pulled harder everywhere with the full system /ram air e.t.c that mine had fitted although i did have to modifiy my micron serpent headers to make everything work just right... and even then fueling was off below 4krpm. but you cant always have your cake and eat it.

everyone is entitled to there own opinion on life and what suits one doesn't always suit an other.

good to see loads of relevant advice and comments being offered right here in this thread though..

regards

Dave

I just put a full system on mine two weeks ago and now my fueling is off below 4krpm as well. It screams above that though. Might have to play around with the jets a litte bit.

Dion

 

[kicky1]

Dionw re fueling below 4krpm

Hi sorry to hear your fueling is also off below 4krpm.

i spent many hours trying to cure the low speed richness that i saw on my own bike and although our setups are similar there are differences.

my own bike had a ram air conversion,59mm f/p stacks full micron serpent exhaust (modified headers),4 degree ignition advancer on top of a load of chassis tweeks as well.

the problem i found with the fueling was that to get the bike to idle nice we had to richen up the pilot circuit to get a satisfactory a/f ratio this then compounds the richness below 4krpm,which we tried to cure by reducing float height in the carb bowls we where eventualy running just 2mm of fuel height in the carbs with dyno jet needles and springs and 154 main jets.

the dynojet springs definatley make the problem worse below 4krpm and i found stock springs improved the low speed fueling due to the higher velocity maintained on opening the throttle.
once above 6krpm it ran great and pulled really hard.

my advice to anyone struggling is to go back to stock slide springs and stock needles as we came to the conclusion that the problem was being compounded by rapid carb slide movements caused by the light springs and needle profile of the dynojet needle.

i nam not saying dynojet kits don't work they do but please remember the majority of tuning parts are developed with racing in mind and are not always going to give brilliant all round results.
although saying that i have heard nothing but good words for the Ivans jet kits just wish i had had the chance to try one before getting rid of my bike late last year.

regards

Dave

 

[dfire]

Well I just put the parts on, and just for shyts and giggles put the stock can on (haven't heard it stock for a while). I don't know if it was the fact that the air was really cold (29.7 F according to digital thermo), the gearing or the stock can, but this thing was running like a beast. It pulled hard everywhere, none of the dead spot off Idle from a stop that I was trying to get rid of.

I was trying to guage my speed with the car ahead of me, and unless they were driving slow, the speedo is pretty close to reading normal. My road is posted 55, and my speedo was reading 57-60 when matching speed with the car ahead of me.

 

[silverbullet01]

im running -1/+3 and it has insane power. the speedo is off about 8-9 mph but it doesnt bother me. buzzs down the highway, 77mph @ 5k rpms. but i have been 150mph and it still has more top end. it has great power for the street.

 

[Racer Dude]

im running -1/+3 and it has insane power. the speedo is off about 8-9 mph but it doesnt bother me. buzzs down the highway, 77mph @ 5k rpms. but i have been 150mph and it still has more top end. it has great power for the street.

Keep in mind the 8-9 mph that the speedo is off. With -1, +3, 5k revs in 6th gear on a 2001 is actually 68 mph.

77 actual mph would be 5,700 revs. Top speed with total gearing at max engine revs would be 158 mph.

 

[Mad German]

For the -1/+2 conversion, can the stock size (length) chain be used? I believe the OEM chain is 114 links. How can you tell how much to add/subtract from a chain when making changes to the sprocket combos that you're using?

Thanks,
S.

 

[dfire]

I just got a used 15 tooth 520 sprocket, do you guys see anything dangerous about using it with a 530 chain for like 10-15 min just to get a feel for the gear reduction?

I would only be ripping on it hard once or twice, and mostly start and stops a various steady speed zones to check where it revs and vibs etc.

Thank you as always